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OK, I guess I tried everything and I just can't get it to start.
Here is the story:
I run a remote installed turbo with Int-X.
One day I was working with the Interceptors matrix mode making a new map, while my DD map was safely saved.
As I was done, I saved my Matrix Mode map into memory slot 3
and loaded the DD map from memory slot 4 one after another.
Drove home (1/4 mile or so) with no problems.
The next day in the morning started the car to go to work.
Everything looked ok.
couple of miles down the rad (as the car got warmed up) I begun to feel that my car is loosing power and feels like it is running too rich.
going into boost would produce jerking and shuddering and make no power at all. EGT begun to climb into 1900.
Since my AFR gauge is not working, I started by adding some more fuel, just to make sure that it is not a lean condition.
The shuddering and jerking when in boost increased even more.
I tried to take off some fuel: didn't help.
Eventually I gave in and carefully drove to work while avoiding boost.
at the end of the day begun my trip back home. As in the morning, the car drove ok at the beginning, but as the temp rose, the loss of power came more obvious.
As I was driving home the car run very hot (not over hitting, but according to Int-x in upper 90s coolant temperature. which is not the usual behaviour.
After I got home, I shut the car down, let it cool off for about 25-30 minutes and went back there to try and figure out what was wrong.
after trying to tweak the map some more I did not get any improvements, but it actually go worst. the car got hot again, and then shut down.
now I can't get it to start at all.
I tried everything: took out the plugs and cleaned them, (they were flooded with gas) Cranked the engine with no plugs and the fuel fuse out.
the engine just floods right back.
I took off the pressure intake, and put back the stock intake and disconnected the Int-x allowing the stock system to take control of the engine.
with that, I tried to crank it and when at WOT the engine will pick up, jump to about 1500 rpm and dies aain.
It is flooded, and that is not even a question, but I had flooded it before and had no problems unflooding it.
This time it is a nightmare.
I was worried about maybe having a blown seal, but I can not hear anything wrong with the way the engine cranks nor runs (when it fires up for the short 2seconds period of time^^)
What else can i try now?
Thanks in advance for the feedback.
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Oh Yeah, I forgot to mention.
After I actually took a good careful look at the maps, I found that my ignition maps were advanced by quite a bit overall.
Tried that. Thanks.
Both rotors sound the the same. No irregular or uneven noises, just pssshhheeeck-pssshhheeeck-pssshhheeeck blowing out a mist of fuel vapors.
Looks like the seals are OK. The only way to make sure off course is to do compression check, but I am not equipped to do that.
Do you run Int-x?
if so can you post pics of our map?
Particularly Crank, Fuel and Ignition maps.
I am afraid that whatever it was that corrupted my DD map, has ruined all of the maps I had, and I need to redo them.
The easiest thing to do to take certain things out of the equation is to disconnect the Int-X and start the car again on the stock ecu. Obviously stay out of boost! If it starts fine then you know you have a tuning issue. If it still doesn't start then you may have something else wrong.
The easiest thing to do to take certain things out of the equation is to disconnect the Int-X and start the car again on the stock ecu. Obviously stay out of boost! If it starts fine then you know you have a tuning issue. If it still doesn't start then you may have something else wrong.
Did that.
it comes alive for a sec and then chokes and dies. ^^
When i was cranking the engine without plugs, the fuel was blown out in a visible cloud of mist.
Is this something that happens or there is too much fuel in those chambers.
Do I need to continue cranking it until there is no more mist coming out?
Its definitely NOT a blown seal. That's easy to detect. The car would have difficulty starting if it started at all. Plus, for the two seconds that the car runs under the stock ECU it would probably run quite roughly. The uneven compression makes for a very unbalanced power delivery.
Try resetting the KAM using the brake pedal trick. Perhaps the trims on the ECU are so far out of whack from the IntX effects that its having trouble maintaining control. At least with resetting the KAM you can start with a clean slate.
BTW: I use a Pep Boys compression meter all the time. There's nothing wrong with it. Take the check valve out and have a pal crank the engine while you watch the dial. You'll have no trouble detecting if all three chambers are on par, or if one is really out of whack.
Anyhow, "mist" sounds like you're still spraying the injectors. Pull the cable connector off the crank position sensor. That's the standard technique and you won't risk pulling the wrong fuse.
Well it is kind of hard to miss that big ass fuse, especially given the fact that I had done it before , But WTF, I'll try just about anything right now.
Just got off the phone with MazsportScott he pointed me in the direction of coils. He says if a coil has a white spot on the back of it, it is burned.
two of my coils (looking from the front it is the second and fourth) have white spots on them. those are trailing right?
As for the injector, Scott says that though theoretically this may happen in real life it happens very very rarely, and most likely it is not the case. Although, how do I check if it is?
Hoses won't really affect the engine start up.
I had busted hosed many times earlier ^ see my avatar and it still drove with no problems. Just leaked the boost ...
well, I'll get a set of new coils, and have my Int-X dongle shipped to Mazsport for a reflash for now, and then pick up from there.
I'd check the coil resisitances against the allowbles in the shop manual before buying new ones. It may indeed be the coils, but that doesn't explain the fact that you were spraying fuel when you shouldn't have been. You need to track that one down, too.
3 coils were dead. I replaced them.
Tried to start: It jumped instantly and died again.
I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it, the engine first spins dead, then starts catching on and almost starts and then as nothing is left in the chambers it looses life.
I repeat the cycle: I put the fuse back it Jumps for a sec and chokes.
I'm wondering if you've diluted the oil with that extra fuel you were dumping in there. It could well be enough to loose compression. Could you try putting a few cc's of oil in the chambers through the plug holes and then cranking it? The fresh oil should help restore compression.
BTW: Have you bought a compression tester from Pep Boys yet?
I'm wondering if you've diluted the oil with that extra fuel you were dumping in there. It could well be enough to loose compression. Could you try putting a few cc's of oil in the chambers through the plug holes and then cranking it? The fresh oil should help restore compression.
BTW: Have you bought a compression tester from Pep Boys yet?
Hmm, amazing ^^.
But yes, I do think that currently my engine is majorly flooded, that is no doubt.
In situations like this, though. How do I get it unflooded? is there like a magic drainage bolt I could just unscrew and let the excess fuel out
No I did not buy the compression meter yet. Been kinda busy with family stuff tonight.
Theres a vaccume hose that runs from under the main intake manifold that goes to the intake in the block. Get someone to turn it over then submerge the hose in 2 stroke oil till you hear it sputter. Flog the throttle alittle. Check your plugs before you do that though. Make sure there dry, dont turn it over if your coils arnt grounded. I fried a new one that way, oops.
No boost, no care.
, But WTF, I'll try just about anything right now. 
Linear Mode
