Rear Wheel Stud/Wheel Hub Bolt Distress - Page 2

08-27-2006, 02:23 PM

#26

TeamRX8

No respecter of malarkey

iTrader: (25)

Join Date: Apr 2005

Posts: 26,719

Likes: 1

Received 2,006 Likes on 1,635 Posts

yeah, it's a great buy

Reply Like

08-28-2006, 08:45 PM

#27

GeorgeH

Registered

iTrader: (2)

Join Date: Oct 2003

Location: Portland OR

Posts: 1,666

Likes: 0

Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRX Millennium

Situational update: dealer replaced the rear wheel stud, due to not being able to find any clear instructions on DIY. According to the dealer, wheel bearing, brake caliper, and hub assembly all had to be removed to get one little bolt replaced. Thanks to great Mazda engineering! 2 hr labor charge ~!@$

Bought the good-quality McGard 64002 (M12x1.5) from PepBoys for $8/4-lug-nuts and anti-seize. Torn about applying anti-seize due to overwhelming recommendations from those of you who swear by the lubricant, while tons of warnings can be found against the practice. See:
NASA Stress Test
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...lug-nut-studs/
ScoobyMods
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/arc...hp/t-2884.html
TireRack
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=39
MotorAge
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...4/ai_n15692083

One thing for sure, I will try to use air compressor to clean the stud thread and enclosed lug nuts.

I've been using anti-sieze on the RX-8 and Miata, and I won't stop using it, as long as I am swapping the wheels on a semi-weekly basis.

Theoretically, the lube reduces the amount of torque required to get the correct pre-load in the bolt. So, if you use anti-seize and use the full 108 ft-lbs specified by Mazda you are stretching the studs by a greater amount than Mazda intended and putting greater forces into the hub.

Whether or not this is a problem is hard to say. Fatigue failures are notoriously hard to predict. But it's equally hard to predict how quickly the studs will degrade due to friction & contamination in the un-lubed state. Galling can also cause failures, as already noted.

I run 90 ft-lbs with anti-sieze as a compromise. Don't know if it's right or wrong, just a guess.

Reply Like

08-28-2006, 10:18 PM

#28

ChopsMcgraw

Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2005

Location: Phoenix, AZ

Posts: 85

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Agreed.

I worry more about galling threads than breaking the stud through over-torquing.

Reply Like

09-21-2006, 05:00 PM

#29

Speedtoys

Registered

Join Date: Aug 2006

Posts: 142

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRX Millennium

Is that so? The bolts sit atop of brake shield in the attached pdf. How would hammering affect the wheel bearing? If I was to cut the damaged bolt short, than backing it out should by easy. The problem is putting the new long bolt in with limited clearance space.

I think the board will benefit in a huge way, if Jason can do a DIY on the rear. The front is here in case anyone is interested: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-replacing-front-wheel-studs-73670/

How would a hammer affect it?

How would hitting your average hole in the highway at 80mph with a 3000lb car on top of it affect it.

Reply Like

07-02-2007, 10:29 AM

#30

RX8 JET

Registered User

Join Date: Apr 2004

Location: Formerly GTA, ON now back in Dexter, MI

Posts: 108

Likes: 0

Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Quote:

Originally Posted by ULLLOSE

I have done one of each, it is easy. Give it a wack with a hammer and it will pop out. Then use a spare nut and some washers to pull the new one in. If you rotate it to the right spot both front and rear can be done with only taking off the wheel.

Wondering whether you can remember how to get the rear studs off while not taking more than just the wheel off (certainly not the hub). I have had issues at the track. I found out how to do the fronts with only removing the tire and was surprised to read your experiences.

Please help a fellow racer with issues at the track. This experience has made me hate and fear tire changes. Right now, if there were issues at the rear, I'm done for the weekend....which is an awful feeling.

Thanks.

Reply Like

07-02-2007, 11:06 AM

#31

TeamRX8

No respecter of malarkey

iTrader: (25)

Join Date: Apr 2005

Posts: 26,719

Likes: 1

Received 2,006 Likes on 1,635 Posts

anti-seize your studs, use 90-95 ft-lb torque, replace the OE nuts with a set of McGard or Gorrilla lug nuts, and pray

otherwise the rear hub will need to be disassembled

one member did manage to swap one out without disassembly by grinding down the stud heads on one side so that it could be slid out/in from behind the hub

Reply Like

07-02-2007, 12:11 PM

#32

John V

Not ******

iTrader: (1)

Join Date: Jan 2004

Posts: 987

Likes: 2

Received 64 Likes on 59 Posts

Reply Like

07-18-2007, 05:50 PM

#33

balefire

SCCA BS #35

iTrader: (2)

Join Date: Aug 2006

Location: Chicago, IL

Posts: 145

Likes: 0

Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeamRX8

anti-seize your studs, use 90-95 ft-lb torque, replace the OE nuts with a set of McGard or Gorrilla lug nuts, and pray

otherwise the rear hub will need to be disassembled

one member did manage to swap one out without disassembly by grinding down the stud heads on one side so that it could be slid out/in from behind the hub

Count me in for the stripped stud club. My local mechanic autox buddy helped me change out my rear stud yesterday. A HUGE PAIN. We did it w/o disassembling the rear hub, but had to:

1) Cut the disc cover
2) Filed down the stud head on one side to get past the rear knuckle
3) Used a hammer. Lightly

Even after rotating the hub, cutting the disc cover, and filing the stud head, it still was a huge pain to get the stud past everything. If I had to do it over again, I would consider just disassembling the hub.

I will do everything I can to prevent this from happening again. Tommorow, I'm buying McGard lug nuts for my autox wheels and some anti seize...

I already picked up a fresh set of Dorman lug nuts to replace my crappy street lug nuts. Any experiences w/ Dorman lugs? Should I go online and get a real set? The Dormans were the only set the local store carried that fit my silly heavy bling SSWs.

Reply Like

07-18-2007, 06:05 PM

#34

TeamRX8

No respecter of malarkey

iTrader: (25)

Join Date: Apr 2005

Posts: 26,719

Likes: 1

Received 2,006 Likes on 1,635 Posts

cutting the disc is not what most people want to do, but it would prevent having to remove the hub

get the Gorilla nuts with the small 17mm hex if you can, these are what Tirerack provides with SSR wheels, they are great and relatively light, lets almost any socket fit in the tightest wheel holes

Reply Like

07-18-2007, 06:20 PM

#35

balefire

SCCA BS #35

iTrader: (2)

Join Date: Aug 2006

Location: Chicago, IL

Posts: 145

Likes: 0

Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeamRX8

get the Gorilla nuts with the small 17mm hex if you can, these are what Tirerack provides with SSR wheels, they are great and relatively light, lets almost any socket fit in the tightest wheel holes

So after some digging, I found an old set of kyokugens in the garage, but the key/spline is stripped (common apparently). Is this set worth replacing the spline and using for my autox or street wheels? The lug nuts look like they are still in good condition.

Reply Like