You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join RX8Club.com today!
Crossposted from the Canada forum, this is a 2010 R3:
Tonight, we were re-tightening the bolts holding the brackets for the bushings of the rear sway bar after installing the racing beat rear sway two weeks ago. A loud knocking sound had started when the car goes over bumps or starts from rest.
Upon beginning the tightening of the top driver's side bolt, while applying barely any force at all, the bolt snapped. There was no excessive force and we were using a torque wrench.
I have no idea what to do, I was thinking of taking it in to ajax mazda tomorrow to get them to repair it. Do you think it is safe to drive?The other option is to remove the exhaust to get access to the bolt and drill it out but I don't have time to do that since this car is my daily driver and I have limited experience with this stuff.
Any thoughts on a course of action or how much a repair would cost? The passenger side bracket tightened just fine and now the driver's side is being held by pretty much just the endlink.
We removed the bushing since after lowering the car, the bar moved and started to warp it.
Argh, cheap bolts
edit: should I just remove the entire rear sway and endlinks? it looks like if the endlink rotates enough, the bar is going to smack the heat shield.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on RX8Club.com!
Are those bolts replaceable? Are we talking about the part that connects the bushing clamps to the frame? I always wondered what the course of action would be if you overtorqued the nuts and ended up breaking the bolts.
Location: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Posts: 11,621
They aren't really bolts. They seem to have a circular head and are welded in place. Ran into this same problem on a friends car and will likely have to drill them out on mine also.
__________________ Don't try this at home. It could be dangerous. I have years of experience.
Emissions and fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared. - Autoweek
Rotary History:1982 RX7 GS, 1985 RX7 GSL-SE, 2004 RX8 Sport-Continuous Rotary Owner since 1985
Racing History:SCCA Solo II 1979-1986, Skip Barber Comp School 1983, SCCA Club Racing 1987-1993, 2004-2011 Track Days
Are those bolts replaceable? Are we talking about the part that connects the bushing clamps to the frame? I always wondered what the course of action would be if you overtorqued the nuts and ended up breaking the bolts.
They are welded from the backside.
But they where not hard bolts to drill out, most work is uninstall/reinstall exhaust.
I had thi happen to me also!!!! WTF is wrong with those bolts???
I dont htink they need to be "Drilled out" - the mechanic i took it to just heated them with a torch a bit and hit with a hammer and they popped out. You can put a new bolt in there with a nut.
But a huge PITA, and totally surprised me....
__________________
"We've got enthusiasts here. We've got hobbyists here. We've got engine builders here. We've got poor people. We've got rich people. Most importantly we've got the best resource of rotary people on the planet and there is very little that hasn't been imagined, talked about, discussed, or improved here. Changes have also been made as a result of our discussions. Give us a bit more credit. We aren't the Civic forum." -RotaryGod
Another one bit the dust. Drivers side bolt holding in the strut tower bar. One of six so this one is meh. I might consider fixing it when I put coilovers in this spring
I overtorqued those suckers to 30ft/lbs once and rode like that and didn't break .... for reference it should be 18 in the rear and 22 in the front on S2's if i remember correctly....must have got lucky