R3Dream

Hello,

I am purchasing a 2009 Mazda RX-8 R3 from a Mazda Dealership.
Since I originally started looking at the car, the dealership decided to replace the engine under the 60k powertrain warranty.
I am looking to pickup the car this weekend and drive it about 800 miles back home.
Are there any special break-in procedures I should be aware of?
Is this a okay to do with a new rotary engine (road-trip)?
What kind of "premix" should I use at fill-ups, and other special care should I take right off the bat?

Thanks,

R3Dream

BigBadChris

iTrader: (4)

Someone else went through two series 2 engines recently, and he had a long road trip to get home. He was driving through Canada IIRC. I will try and find the thread.

Here we go. He went through a few engines, they never solved the exact cause. But, he made it home after a road trip on a brand new engine. Read through it and shoot him a message. The oil and coolant flush after the drive home is a must. Little metal shavings, too much silicone sealant, etc.

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...record-257883/

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Just drive it, don't rev the crap out of it, change the oil when you reach 1500 miles and then drive it like normal.

It's not a new engine, it's a re manufactured engine (they don't install a new engine, they have a reman plant in VA that rebuilds the Renesis engines) so you don't need to follow strict break in procedures.

Love_Hounds

Didn't the guy in Canada say, he did get a new motor for his series 2, because enough of them hadn't failed yet and sent in to be rebuilt?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

A lot of times the dealer calls it a new engine when speaking with the customer but they don't sell new engines as a part #anymore. You could build a new engine buy buying the parts individually but the cost is ridiculous. I am not sure what they do overseas, IIRC, they do get new engines from Japan, the way we used to before the Reman plant as opened. The reman plant in VA does the series I & II Renesis as well as some other stuff now like transmissions for the Mazda 3, etc.

Gravey

iTrader: (3)

^Ok but, where do I get my 16x?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

w w w.mazsport.mindseyeengineering.rx8performance.com Ask for Scott, he will hook you up. You just have to pay up front and then he will get back to you in 9 months with an update.

Gravey

iTrader: (3)

Just 9 months? TAKE MY MONEY!!!!!!

blu3dragon

iTrader: (1)

No problem to drive it home, but I would treat it as a new engine, since the seals are all new and will need to bed in. Plus there might be some contaminants from the rebuild or install.

So;
1) Fill it up and add some premix (I would use 50:1 or 8oz for the first tank and then 100:1 or gallons/4 oz for each fill after that)
2) Drive it home, trying to vary the rpm between 2000 and 4500 (don't cruize at the same rpm all the way).
3) Change the oil and filter when you get home. Do the diff, trans oil, coils and plugs at the same time if you have no record of them having been done.
4) Over the next 1000 miles, gradually increase max rpm to redline.
5) change the oil again, and then drive like normal. At this point you can also stop with the premix if you like (but I would still use 100:1 if you auto-x or track it).

Or, just take it easy for the drive home, change the oil, and then drive it like normal.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

There are several threads on engine break in and the different opinions on it. Every builder has a little bit different recommendation.

R3Dream

Ahh What a nightmare! Only thing I got from that is premix / motor oil for break-in or not.
Any opinion on whether a coolant flush is needed or just an oil change after 1k.

blu3dragon

iTrader: (1)

IMHO the important part is the oil & filter change since since there will be a mix of break in metal from the new engine, and oil of unknown condition from the old engine still in the system (since it does not drain from the coolers and lines).

Coolant change is not as important, since all the coolant will come out when you change the engine, but it certainly would not hurt things.

Love_Hounds

Coolant flush is highly recommended after break-in mileage as they use sealants during the re-manufacturing process. Those sealants and any debris even incredibly small in size has a tendency to clog areas in the coolant system, which can lead to overheating and premature engine failure.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Coolant flush after break in?

The reman plant does get a little crazy with RTV but its' dry by the time the engine hits the dealer and not much of it is making it's way into the coolant passages. And even if a bit of it were, changing the coolant soon after the dealer already put in fresh coolant isn't going to do anything.

Luiss7

800 miles seems like a lot. However, it is a 09 RX8 and no matter what people say, the car usually comes in good condition from the dealership. I believe depending on the coolant that you have, you will make it. Also, be careful with the oil; some dealerships don't do the oil-changes correctly, and they don't usually add all they are supossed to. (I had to change my oil about 2 weeks after purchasing it).

Love_Hounds

From our own riwwp(not that he is infallible but):

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Well I would disagree with that and I had a reman fail due to a faulty coolant seal but it wasn't caused by excess silicone, just a faulty seal or it was installed wrong.

Now excess RTV could clog some **** up but changing the coolant isn't going to help, coolant is not going to do anything to dried RTV, not for a very long time anyway. We have torn down quite a few remans and non of them had clogged coolant passages due to RTV but I have seen some nasty **** in the coolant passages.

R3Dream

Can you post some links to a few of these threads or posts, searched but really haven't found anything to specific

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

check out from post #429 on of this thread.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...-231522/page9/

Shumster

iTrader: (2)

Holy i'm popular. Ya regardless of whether i'm on a reman or a new engine, it's running well. Got close to 10K KMs on it and she's running great!
Regardless, I'd recommend a compression test just to be sure before you give them any money

R3Dream

Completed LeMans from Washington to California, almost 1k. Pacific Highway was amazing, really demo'd car's potential. Waiting for Lab kit to change oil. There is a lot of carbon on exhaust tips but guessing its from the premix.
Also downshifts in 1st/2rd are rather noisy, liquid/gear sound, is this normal? Its less noticeable in higher gears.

Also, as far as oil and premix's go, had to use Lucas Syn as all that was at auto parts store, out of Idemitsu vs Pettit Racing Protek-R which is better?
I'm going with conventional for at least two more oil changes for break-in peroids. Any Brand/Spec Recommendations?

R3Dream

I've done an oil change with dino awaiting bsl test results. Wednesday night I had to commute a ways for work and redlined her for first time. It was a 200+ miles trip, and I drove more agressively. Now the coolant warning light comes on intermittently while on the freeway, and coolants looks low. Should i be running for dealership or just add some coolant and wait and see? my concern is that going above 7k the last few days may have broken a housing seal...

Shumster

iTrader: (2)

The coolant warning light is a common issue, nothing serious, just the sensor tends to die and causes the light to go on.

blu3dragon

iTrader: (1)

I would add a little coolant if it is low... You can use distilled water if it is just a small amount. Mark the level on the expansion tank when it is cold, and then keep am eye on it too see if it charges. Note that the expansion tank does not want to be full when cold, it will expand and come out the cap if it is.

R3Dream

Currently, I'm getting a lot of "bogging" when using anymore than 25% throttle, when the drive-train is engaged. Especially anything above 5k, is when I have to feather the throttle on acceleration.
I've also got misfire on rotor 2 CELs.
I'm due for an oil change and considering a compression test, to check the new engine...
Any thoughts? Could this just be fouled plugs from too much premix or bad ignition wires...