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I just bought a 2009 RX-8 Sport this week and I had a few questions:
1. I'm aware of the "warm up engine to avoid flooding", but will it do the rotary any harm if I drive with the engine cold (cold start). Should I wait for operating temperature before putt-putting around town?
2. Any recalls made on S2 models? I'm aware of a few for the S1, but on the Sticky, it said that no recalls are active for S2. Is that up to date? Link to where I can check or just ask dealer?
3. 3000 Miles per oil change, BUT does the filter need to be swapped too or can that be stretched out? (GENUINE MAZDA S2 FILTER ONLY)
4. Last night, I was driving around town and got a long crank. Is this normal for a rotary or something that needs to be addressed? I noted that a few members said this has happened to them as well.
5. I'm in SoCal, so will a 10W30 DINO oil work well on the rotary?
That's what I have for now. Looking forward to hearing from the community!
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I just bought a 2009 RX-8 Sport this week and I had a few questions:
1. I'm aware of the "warm up engine to avoid flooding", but will it do the rotary any harm if I drive with the engine cold (cold start). Should I wait for operating temperature before putt-putting around town?
2. Any recalls made on S2 models? I'm aware of a few for the S1, but on the Sticky, it said that no recalls are active for S2. Is that up to date? Link to where I can check or just ask dealer?
3. 3000 Miles per oil change, BUT does the filter need to be swapped too or can that be stretched out? (GENUINE MAZDA S2 FILTER ONLY)
4. Last night, I was driving around town and got a long crank. Is this normal for a rotary or something that needs to be addressed? I noted that a few members said this has happened to them as well.
5. I'm in SoCal, so will a 10W30 DINO oil work well on the rotary?
That's what I have for now. Looking forward to hearing from the community!
1. You should let it warm before high-rpm operation. The S2 has a dynamic redline that will give you an idea, but generally speaking stay below ~3k RPM for the first few minutes.
3. The oil filter is the most important part of any oil change. Never change the oil without changing the filter. You should always change both at the same time, but honestly, you would have fewer problems changing just the filter than the other way around.
4. How long? Was this on a warm/hot engine? What is the mileage? Have the plugs/coils ever been replaced? Has this only happened once?
5. I think so (you will get many opinions on this)
For the long crank you may want to go get your battery tested, your car is a 2009 so its about time for a battery anyway. If you notice the starter does not sound very fast then get a battery before it leaves you stranded.
I use 10w40 oil, but like jsight said you will get a ton of opinions on that. Just stay away from the 5w20 is something most people will agree on.
The engine was at warm/hot temperature and this happened only once and I was driving at night when it was very windy.
I am the 2nd owner and the car had 14,4XX miles when I took ownership. I believe the ignition coils may be the original ones from the factory.
Noted on the filter.
Noted on the 3k shift point. That's just around where I shift, warm or cold.
Thanks guys!
The common notion on the forum is that the coils should be changed along with the plugs at the recommended interval. I changed everything at 30,000 miles, but both plugs and coils could have gone much longer. The car ran exactly the same after the change, but it's better to do it in advance of any issues.
__________________ 2009 Sport Automatic, Diamond Gray Metallic
Thanks for all the info! I will get that battery checked. I got another one today. Crank took again about 3-4 seconds before starting back up. Again, this is after driving around while the engine is still hot/warm.
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