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Guess I am just unlucky like that. Oh well. I will be making sure I tell anyone who does my oil change that if it goes over that they drain and start again, or they will be cleaning out my intake next time. I need to get a house so I can start doing my own.
Just got back from the track in new to me 2010 S2 with 28k miles. Got the MAF temp sensor out of range code or something like that, car ran fine. Doubt that compression is low or anything like that.
Pulled the MAF out when I got home and saw that I have some oil in the accordion intake boot. Looks like oil is coming in from the 9 o'clock hose (green marked), which according to the Ash is going to the stock "catch can" which obviously is not doing its job for some reason. Oil was not overfilled. Dipstick reads at the half full mark. Track is Summit Point Shenandoah so lots of tight corners...
Is 9 o'clock hose under vacuum ? Should I just stick PVC valve in it? Other ideas?
Last edited by Nadrealista; 05-30-2015 at 06:19 PM.
Pulled the MAF out when I got home and saw that I have some oil in the accordion intake boot. Looks like oil is coming in from the 9 o'clock hose (green marked), which according to the Ash is going to the stock "catch can" which obviously is not doing its job for some reason. Oil was not overfilled. Dipstick reads at the half full mark. Track is Summit Point Shenandoah so lots of tight corners...
Well I should go ahead and put this on here. TeamRX8 was right about mine. Had a compression check done and a few weeks later I have a brand new engine. I only had 44K miles on it which is why I didn't think that was the problem. My car also ran fine from what I noticed. Granted I wasn't doing any track running.
You have plenty of time before the engine warranty runs out (if you didn't get an extended) so if you think it was a fluke you could always wait for it to happen again.
The compression check from my dealership was going to cost me $170, just so you know what price range you may be looking at just to make sure.
Good luck.
Also a thanks to TeamRX8, 9krpmrx8, and especially ASH8 for making the pictures he really didn't have to do. (At least not for my reasons).
Just got back from the track in new to me 2010 S2 with 28k miles. Got the MAF temp sensor out of range code or something like that, car ran fine. Doubt that compression is low or anything like that.
Pulled the MAF out when I got home and saw that I have some oil in the accordion intake boot. Looks like oil is coming in from the 9 o'clock hose (green marked), which according to the Ash is going to the stock "catch can" which obviously is not doing its job for some reason. Oil was not overfilled. Dipstick reads at the half full mark. Track is Summit Point Shenandoah so lots of tight corners...
Is 9 o'clock hose under vacuum ? Should I just stick PVC valve in it? Other ideas?
Is that dipstick level reading before or after tracking the car? How many miles to a typical track day?
My S2 car burns about 3/4 qt for every 2 hours or 150 miles when I am at the track. Assuming a similar level of consumption and similar distance driven, your oil would seem to have been very full if you were at the halfway mark when you finished.
I was at the last bar above low oil level line at the end of the first track day, so I added half quart (track is 65 miles from my place). I started with one bar below full. So I used about half quart per day. I took the intake boot out yesterday and there was some oil in it but not much. I cleaned it and put it bask and ran 2 more track sessions.
MAF code did not come back after resetting it on Saturday mid-day.
My guess is there was probably some carbon build up in the engine that was from what I could tell mostly street driven by the previous owner. these two track days surly took care of that...will check the for the oil in the intake boot this evening again, was too tired yesterday.
car ran well and I was surprised how well it rotated on the completely stock suspension despite being a bit boat like trough the corners (with plenty of grip from NT-01s)..need to put set of sway bars on it before next event...
Last edited by Nadrealista; 06-01-2015 at 08:01 AM.
Weird. I have never seen any signs of oil in my intake or throttle body. I plan to start my yearly major maintenance in week 3 of this month, which includes taking the intake apart to inspect the coils. I will check again then. I have 2 more track days to go before then, however.
My dipstick only has 2 dots. I fill it to about 1/8" below the full dot and call it good. After about 150 miles on the track, the level is about 1/8" above the low dot. About 3/4qt brings it back to my definition of full.
Specifically what car do you have?
Mazda designed the RX-8 to use some body roll in its handling. Is your plan to go with softer springs and heavier bars, harder springs and lighter bars, or hard and heavy all the way around? Which bars are you thinking?
All S2 should have this dipstick, each dot equals .5L so 2L between low and full mark:
since I am on stock suspension I am going with adjustable bars front and back, on my S1 had RB bars which were good but not adjustable. As for the brand, not sure yet. Maybe progress or whiteline, any other recommendations?
I have seen that picture in my owner's manual. I only have the full dot and dot number 2 on my dipstick. Maybe Mazda simplified it for the 2011 MY?
Sway bars are a pretty individual choice. I am running Bilstein PSS9s at a 13.5" ride height all the way around--or roughly so, since the car is corner balanced. I also have Whiteline adjustable end links with stock bars. I have just a little more oversteer in the system than I want and am considering upgrading the front bar to one from an R3 or buying the Progress Miata adjustable front bar and checking out its 3 positions. For the most part, I think most people overbar their cars, so I tend toward light to medium bars. But, it always depends on how the rest of the system is configured and the driver's individual style.
Thoughts on capping the green line at the intake and T-ing it in with the blue line to a sealed catch can work vacuum coming from the service ports ?
Originally Posted by ASH8
IF you have a R3 or S2 catch can should not be needed in a sound engine, unless someone has been doing lots of under the engine mods.
Oil in TB is not an issue, the venting and plumbing was changed and prevents oil from forming there.
Anyway, IF you have a S2 one of the hoses comes from the two EMOP's and is the return system of OIL from EMOPS and also when their cleaning cycle occurs, the oil goes back from EMOPS through that tube and back down oil filler to oil pan.
This hose has a click on type fitting onto Oil Filler Tube nipple as it carries return oil under pressure (small)....see EPC sketches below in red. Blue is the LIM hose connection.
EDIT: Are you filling engine oil quickly while engine is still running?, if you are adding too much oil and OR if overfilling, see the GREEN mark arrow, oil if overfilled will come up/rise from engine into vac tube (green) which goes to a straight hose joiner which then ends at 90 degree connection in the black concertina air intake hose before Throttle Body..
The other same 90 degree connection in black concertina air intake routes to the LIM and is for emissions, no oil can ever come from/to this hose...see Orange.
The rest of the smaller thin hoses are for LIM SSV Actuators via two small solenoids (18-741C) under oil filler tube box.
Plus the hose (13-990) for Air Pump via small solenoid (18-741C).
A separate small thin hose via another small solenoid for the VFAD (Fresh Air Intake Flap), which eventually goes to a small nipple under corner of the black hard square intake directly after the TB.
Are you certain you are not overfilling your 09?..
Engine performs OK?
No heavy oil exhaust fumes..
How many miles?
NOTE: The S2 already has a factory 'catch can' which is part of the large oil filler 'black box' which drains back into oil pan, installing another catch can is worthless, IF you own a S2 and are seeing engine oil inside around Throttle Body or inside black Intake Concertina Hose there are other issues with your car.
1. Too much engine oil is being topped off or being overfilled.
and or..
2. Engine has compression 'Blow Back' which usually means damaged/fractured Oil Control Rings or worn out ones, ONLY rectified by a complete engine overhaul.
and or..
3. Possible modifications from the original factory engine, or other mods performed by other owners.
The thread is a bit rambling as I traced where each of the lines went on the car since the diagram that I had did not match up with reality. It didn't include the line to the OMP and it showed the top nipple going back to the accordian instead of down to the jet air. The diagrams that Ash posted in this thread look correct, and I wish I had them when I was installing my catch can.
Anyway, to answer your question, I just installed the catch can on the green line in my thread (coincidentally also in this thread) since this was the most direct way for oil to make its way to the intake. I would not recommend capping off one of the lines and just T-ing the others, since you want some flow of fresh air through the oil sump (not quite a crank case) to actively pull evaporated water and any other vapor out of the crank, and putting a T would prevent most of this.
Thanks for the reply!
I actually ended up studying ASH's diagrams and doing some thinking and decided that adding a check valve on the green line would be better than T-ing it in to the catch can line.
Will do, although I'm not anticipating much. My intake as always been dry as a bone, but I was removing the air pump and figured it'd be cheap insurance that I could mount to an existing bracket.
I did overfill the oil once when I first got it, and it let out quite the smoke screen during a long decel from the interstate , I just want to make sure that there is no circumstance where oil can enter the intake. Between the catch can and the check valve that mission appears to be accomplished.
Just make sure the check valve is flowing from intake towards the oil system, since fresh pre-throttle air will be drawn through the green tube by the jet air system.
The other weekend I was changing coils on my S2 and took of intake boot and to my surprise there was virtually zero oil or blow by in it after 10k of mostly track miles.
05-04-2015, 07:51 AM
