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The part has changed in series 2, I know that. I read in another post that it changed from a B to a C at the end or start of the part number. Most of the clutch failures I read about have been at 40k+ miles. I dont think theres any series 2 with that amount of miles yet so its hard to say if it will last or not. I am most likely going to get mine welded just in case, it cant hurt.
Installed the bracket on my 05' recently. It's very annoying to install, but after seeing how flimsy and weak the oem bracket was i'm glad i decided to have it on there!
If it's anything like the series I i highly recommend getting the bracket vs spot welding it.
Last edited by silverbullet05; 03-23-2010 at 10:33 AM.
Reason: grammatical errors. lol
no one in this thread, but other threads i have seen people just weld the bracket and call it a day. i would not trust it even if it was welded correctly.
"Trust" has nothing to do with it. The dozens of people whom have either purchased the welding service from BHR or followed my advice on the welding, itself, have never had any issues afterward (except when the welding was not done properly).
I really don't care if people use a bolt-on bracket, weld it themselves, or have a professional do it. In any event, some sort of reinforcement is strongly advised.
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Do NOT send me a PM here. E-mail me at "Charles@BlackHaloRacing.com".
"I said my piece and I counted to three......."
no one in this thread, but other threads i have seen people just weld the bracket and call it a day. i would not trust it even if it was welded correctly.
This makes no sense. The root of the problem is the bracket has been spot welded, poor design. The problem is the brackets are breaking off at the weld, not the bracket snapping because it's not thick enough. Doing a full seam or even just stitch welds on it reinforces it properly and will not break unless you don't know how to weld or what you're doing.
Why you would not trust the proper fix when done correctly that fixes the root cause is beyond me.
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“It is a sad fate for a man to die too well known to everybody else, and still unknown to himself.”
― Francis Bacon
I don't understand the reason for being bashed here. I was expressing my personal opinion on the issue. After seeing how easy it was to bend the bracket in several areas after removing it, I feel that the reinforcement bracket is a much better option. Some may see it as overkill, but i can rest easy knowing it isn't going to break or bend again on me.
Nobody is "bashing" anyone. You expressed your opinion, and I expressed mine. Given that I was the one who originally discovered the issue and developed a rather simple and effective solution (and one that you can have done locally for only a few dollars), a solution that has yet to fail when done properly, I felt like getting in on the discussion. Please also consider how many people have taken my advice and been satisfied with the results. Might you agree that experience plays a role in deciding which approach may be more valid?
Besides, as I stated earlier, I really don't care WHICH approach people take. I just hope they do something for themselves so as to save their transmissions.
__________________
Do NOT send me a PM here. E-mail me at "Charles@BlackHaloRacing.com".
"I said my piece and I counted to three......."
This makes no sense. The root of the problem is the bracket has been spot welded, poor design. The problem is the brackets are breaking off at the weld, not the bracket snapping because it's not thick enough. Doing a full seam or even just stitch welds on it reinforces it properly and will not break unless you don't know how to weld or what you're doing.
Why you would not trust the proper fix when done correctly that fixes the root cause is beyond me.
The spot welds DO NOT represent the structure of the clutch bracket. If you study the bracket it's obvious. Welding will help stiffen the structure but does not address the root cause of the failure.
This was discussed to death... Clutch Pedal SNAP OFF ~~~
see photos here http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?...&postcount=921
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2004 SS GT 6MT : Clear corners : AFE SS : Voodoo : leather boot : KDW2 : RB Rev8, screens : Al strakes : Catch can : Clutch pedal reinforcement : RB springs, sway bars and end links : D-specs : Racing Brake rotors and SS lines : Hawk Ceramics : AP WCS tune : MM OP mod : RB gauges & Ram Air : N3Z1-18-400 : GROM + Sirius : BHR ignition : Davesport Cat : Waiting : Sohn adapter
...a solution that has yet to fail when done properly...
That is the key point, I had a reputable shop call me the other day saying I shipped the wrong sway bars and that they were the wrong sizes. They then continued to tell me it was no way it was going to be installed.
I then proceeded to tell them they had mixed the bars up and were backwards. I then emailed them installation instructions.
Go figure.
The thing is with anything is will it get done properly the first time? We cannot vouch for every "welder" out there that has shop on the local corner and can do it properly. I have seen excellent welding and then I have seen **** poor welding with pedals that have snapped.
Options are options and simply that, just need to make sure it is done right either route you take
Quote:
Originally Posted by xexok
The part has changed in series 2, I know that. I read in another post that it changed from a B to a C at the end or start of the part number. Most of the clutch failures I read about have been at 40k+ miles. I dont think theres any series 2 with that amount of miles yet so its hard to say if it will last or not. I am most likely going to get mine welded just in case, it cant hurt.
Revision C is still the same pedal. If you are going to get it welded make sure it is done right. I had a customer pay $100 for a welding job that his ended up snapping on him again 4 months later.
It's too early to tell if welding the pedal will be reliable.
The first clutch pedal issues I found in a search were around 2007 and seems to have started with aftermarket clutch users. Makes sense, yes?
The first welded brackets have probably not seen enough use to really know for sure.
That is the key point, I had a reputable shop call me the other day saying I shipped the wrong sway bars and that they were the wrong sizes. They then continued to tell me it was no way it was going to be installed.
I then proceeded to tell them they had mixed the bars up and were backwards. I then emailed them installation instructions.
Go figure.
The thing is with anything is will it get done properly the first time? We cannot vouch for every "welder" out there that has shop on the local corner and can do it properly. I have seen excellent welding and then I have seen **** poor welding with pedals that have snapped.
Options are options and simply that, just need to make sure it is done right either route you take
Revision C is still the same pedal. If you are going to get it welded make sure it is done right. I had a customer pay $100 for a welding job that his ended up snapping on him again 4 months later.
Shall we start a jointly-authored thread about the things with which we deal on a daily basis?
__________________
Do NOT send me a PM here. E-mail me at "Charles@BlackHaloRacing.com".
"I said my piece and I counted to three......."
It's too early to tell if welding the pedal will be reliable.
No, it isn't too early. I have been welding them and suggesting the welding for two years without further failure on part of those properly welded pedal assemblies. A "proeprly-welded" pedal assembly is one that is welded BEFORE the damage occurs. The self-annointed engineers and brainiacs around here can argue all about the physics, mechanics, and design (and I will agree with them on those matters) but the simple fact is that my suggestion, for some strange reason, works. Add to it Race Roots bracket and you have one pretty solid pedal.
__________________
Do NOT send me a PM here. E-mail me at "Charles@BlackHaloRacing.com".
"I said my piece and I counted to three......."
Shall we start a jointly-authored thread about the things with which we deal on a daily basis?
That would be awesome. Can you get Jeff to join in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
No, it isn't too early. I have been welding them and suggesting the welding for two years without further failure on part of those properly welded pedal assemblies. A "proeprly-welded" pedal assembly is one that is welded BEFORE the damage occurs. The self-annointed engineers and brainiacs around here can argue all about the physics, mechanics, and design (and I will agree with them on those matters) but the simple fact is that my suggestion, for some strange reason, works. Add to it Race Roots bracket and you have one pretty solid pedal.
Overkill FTW!
I was lucky and had the clutch pedal replaced for what turned out to be a squeaky switch (awesome Mazda Tech troubleshooting).
The reinforcement bracket adds enough stability to be a great mod even without the bracket failure issue.
Those welding their own pedals and not using the bracket would be wise to add metal to the two upper bolt hole areas and up into the structure where the typical metal fatigue cracks occur.
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2004 SS GT 6MT : Clear corners : AFE SS : Voodoo : leather boot : KDW2 : RB Rev8, screens : Al strakes : Catch can : Clutch pedal reinforcement : RB springs, sway bars and end links : D-specs : Racing Brake rotors and SS lines : Hawk Ceramics : AP WCS tune : MM OP mod : RB gauges & Ram Air : N3Z1-18-400 : GROM + Sirius : BHR ignition : Davesport Cat : Waiting : Sohn adapter
Installed the bracket on my 05' recently. It's very annoying to install, but after seeing how flimsy and weak the oem bracket was i'm glad i decided to have it on there!
If it's anything like the series I i highly recommend getting the bracket vs spot welding it.
I did my own version for my 05 RX-8 four months/2000 miles ago
Those welding their pedals and not using the bracket would be wise to add metal to the two upper bolt hole areas and up into the structure where the typical metal fatigue cracks occur.
Have you ever actually SEEN a BHR-welded pedal assembly? Even if only in photos?
__________________
Do NOT send me a PM here. E-mail me at "Charles@BlackHaloRacing.com".
"I said my piece and I counted to three......."
Have you ever actually SEEN a BHR-welded pedal assembly? Even if only in photos?
May have seen a pic... I remember really nice welds just like the mid pipe.
I do know WCS and he keeps threatening to drag me up to install his. When I get to touch it I promise I will send you my impressions.
BTW, I'm looking forward to an ignition upgrade in the spring!
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2004 SS GT 6MT : Clear corners : AFE SS : Voodoo : leather boot : KDW2 : RB Rev8, screens : Al strakes : Catch can : Clutch pedal reinforcement : RB springs, sway bars and end links : D-specs : Racing Brake rotors and SS lines : Hawk Ceramics : AP WCS tune : MM OP mod : RB gauges & Ram Air : N3Z1-18-400 : GROM + Sirius : BHR ignition : Davesport Cat : Waiting : Sohn adapter
My comments were directed towards the people who grasp without thought for the cheapest, easiest band-aid solutions.
BHR is well known for quality, commitment and passion.
I know that you back your products and take great pride in them
SilverEight posted a couple photos of properly-welded clutch pedals on "Rotary4Life.com". One was his own and the other was a BHR version.
What I find fascinating about all this clutch pedal talk is that the welding process is a rather inexpensive preventive measure, yet people still wonder if they should bother with it. Welding and Race Roots' bracket, combined, is said by those who use the combo to be a pretty solid set-up.
__________________
Do NOT send me a PM here. E-mail me at "Charles@BlackHaloRacing.com".
"I said my piece and I counted to three......."
SilverEight posted a couple photos of properly-welded clutch pedals on "Rotary4Life.com". One was his own and the other was a BHR version.
What I find fascinating about all this clutch pedal talk is that the welding process is a rather inexpensive preventive measure, yet people still wonder if they should bother with it. Welding and Race Roots' bracket, combined, is said by those who use the combo to be a pretty solid set-up.
You can gift wrap a zero risk solution and offer it for free and people will still find reasons not to adopt it.
__________________
??
2004 SS GT 6MT : Clear corners : AFE SS : Voodoo : leather boot : KDW2 : RB Rev8, screens : Al strakes : Catch can : Clutch pedal reinforcement : RB springs, sway bars and end links : D-specs : Racing Brake rotors and SS lines : Hawk Ceramics : AP WCS tune : MM OP mod : RB gauges & Ram Air : N3Z1-18-400 : GROM + Sirius : BHR ignition : Davesport Cat : Waiting : Sohn adapter
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