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09 needs a new motor

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Old 04-08-2013, 04:38 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by New Yorker
Hmm... anything else you do that Mazda advises against?
Show me where Mazda advises against premix. How many miles are on your RX-8 now New Yorker? Like 20k?
Old 04-08-2013, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Unoriginalusername
Any mods?
? Any mods
Old 04-09-2013, 09:49 AM
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Unless I've overlooked something, I don't see any mention of diagnostic codes (related to the CEL) or compression test results indicating seal failure. This data would be helpful in understanding what happened.

I also don't see how a seal failure / compression loss would generate a CEL. From the described symptoms, it could be something as simple as a failed coil.

I would be asking for more information.

Last edited by PeteInLongBeach; 04-09-2013 at 09:52 AM.
Old 04-09-2013, 10:29 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by pdxhak
Sorry to hear.

How would the dealership know it was side seals? They are not supposed to touch the engines if they fail their tests.
This....

Originally Posted by nycgps
im curious as to how they know ur engine has a side seal failure without opening the engine. super powers?

anyway, stop using 5w20, it kills engines.
This as well...

When my 2nd engine went out on this 8, they told me it was "Hydrolocked". Funny thing is, its almost impossible to hydrolock a rotary AND at the current time period when my engine went, Texas was on its way to beat the last record heat above 100 for 35+ days with no rain...

They will make up anything these days...

Originally Posted by olddragger
about the redline thing---do due diligence and research the forces occuring within the engine during rpm ranges. What you will find may surprise you.
I second this, only to a point though... IMO Theres no reason to go above 8K on Mazda made engines, especially Reman's (Pandora's box of parts) ... They come out of the factory out of balance. Now if you get a properly built and balanced Renesis, I feel more confident in higher RPM's... But I shift at ~8.5k anyways as hitting rev limiter is dumb...

Originally Posted by olddragger
Also the increased heat production between 8k and 9k is tremendous!
True... It should be interesting and a little OCD, but im going to be running Evans NPG to see the difference in temps...

Originally Posted by olddragger
9K rpm is not the redline for this car. Mazda screwed up on this one trying to get as much power out of it as they could.
I feel 9K was for advertising purposes... Maybe Im wrong but advertising your car has a 9K rpm redline is crazy high, obviously a marketing point for the rotary since most piston engines wouldnt dare hit that RPM (Unless its crazy $$$ or a F20/F22 engine in AP1/AP2 S2000 AKA Forged Internals). Really no point past 8.5K since theres no power up there and only more wear...

Originally Posted by olddragger
Most people who track this car only take the engine to 8.2K or so. And IMHO thats pushing it.
But i am old and some call me crazy So--do due diligence. then get back with us with your opinion.
Your engine is also an exception as you have (and im totally Jelly) a S/C... but I still second your advice to not go higher than basically 8.5K...
Old 04-09-2013, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by WTBRotary!
This....

True... It should be interesting and a little OCD, but im going to be running Evans NPG to see the difference in temps...
Sounds like you need to read up on what waterless coolant does and how it works............
Old 04-09-2013, 12:30 PM
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I know how it works Scott... I will see an increase in temps as it absorbs more heat... Seems My posts aren't up to your "Specificity" today...
Old 04-09-2013, 01:21 PM
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You said, "I am going to be running Evans NPG to see the difference in temps". That makes no sense.
Old 04-09-2013, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
You said, "I am going to be running Evans NPG to see the difference in temps". That makes no sense.
Yeah... I want to see a difference in Temps... Granted what I am comparing is apples to oranges but im still curious... Although, the only thing thats gets me is Evans NPG+ is less efficient at heat transfer... I really dont want to get my engine above the equivalent of 210F Mazda coolant If possible...
Old 04-10-2013, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
They have no reason to do that, they have a protocol to follow and doing that would not benefit them at all. They just follow the rules so they can be paid for the warranty work.
They have no reason *not* to do it. They have to pull the sparkplugs to run a compression test anyway, so as long as the plugs are out, they might as well snoop around inside with a boroscope.

Alternately, maybe they know the side seals failed because they damaged the engine while testing it.
Old 04-10-2013, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
They have no reason *not* to do it. They have to pull the sparkplugs to run a compression test anyway, so as long as the plugs are out, they might as well snoop around inside with a boroscope.

Alternately, maybe they know the side seals failed because they damaged the engine while testing it.
Might as well huh? Well dealer techs typically don't get to dick around with whatever they want. They work on a jobs schedule so if they screw around and don't get the job done then they get their asses chewed. So that is the reason they have to not waste time.

My buddy is a Mazda dealer tech so I know they screw around a lot, but they have plenty of reason not too and I hate to say it but most dealer techs have never even seen the inside of a rotary in person so they would not know what they were looking at anyway.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 04-10-2013 at 02:07 PM.
Old 04-10-2013, 03:02 PM
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You can tell with some level of confidence what seal has failed with a compression test.....

2 low faces and one normal: apex seal
1 low face and two normal: side seal
All low: Just worn out or lots of consequential damage
Old 04-11-2013, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteInLongBeach
Unless I've overlooked something, I don't see any mention of diagnostic codes (related to the CEL) or compression test results indicating seal failure. This data would be helpful in understanding what happened.

I also don't see how a seal failure / compression loss would generate a CEL. From the described symptoms, it could be something as simple as a failed coil.

I would be asking for more information.
OP, any comments ? I can't believe they would declare a failed seal & engine replacement without a compression test. And, what generated the CEL ?
Old 04-11-2013, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Might as well huh? Well dealer techs typically don't get to dick around with whatever they want. They work on a jobs schedule so if they screw around and don't get the job done then they get their asses chewed. So that is the reason they have to not waste time.

My buddy is a Mazda dealer tech so I know they screw around a lot, but they have plenty of reason not too and I hate to say it but most dealer techs have never even seen the inside of a rotary in person so they would not know what they were looking at anyway.
Have you ever seen a boroscope? It's a handheld viewscreen with a camera-on-a-stick hanging off the front end. It takes about 30 seconds to learn how to use one if you've never seen one before. I'm not saying they definitely used one, I'm just saying it's plausible, and I'm sure they have one on-hand because they'd need it to check engine cylinders for debris and cylinder damage.

As for not seeing the inside of a rotary before: gouged metal inside an engine is always a bad sign, so I'm sure a mechanic could figure out that much.

Originally Posted by MikeTyson8MyKids
You can tell with some level of confidence what seal has failed with a compression test.....

2 low faces and one normal: apex seal
1 low face and two normal: side seal
All low: Just worn out or lots of consequential damage
That is useful information, thanks for sharing.

Last edited by fyrstormer; 04-11-2013 at 01:47 PM.
Old 04-11-2013, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
Have you ever seen a boroscope? It's a handheld viewscreen with a camera-on-a-stick hanging off the front end. It takes about 30 seconds to learn how to use one if you've never seen one before. I'm not saying they definitely used one, I'm just saying it's plausible, and I'm sure they have one on-hand because they'd need it to check engine cylinders for debris and cylinder damage.

As for not seeing the inside of a rotary before: gouged metal inside an engine is always a bad sign, so I'm sure a mechanic could figure out that much.

That is useful information, thanks for sharing.
Yes, I know what a boroscope is. Have you ever seen the inside of a typical failure from a loss of compression in a Renesis? Unless it is a Catastrophic failure (less common) then using a boroscope thru the sparkplug hole would would not reveal much if anything at all. Heck, even when they are torn apart, finding the exact cause CAN at times be difficult just by eyeballing things.
Old 04-18-2013, 04:01 PM
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MT8MK's info seems like the most plausible way they might have diagnosed the side-seal failure at this point, assuming they did any diagnosis at all.
Old 05-01-2013, 08:14 PM
  #41  
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any updates by chance? and any mods?

i'm concerned about getting even an intake and an exhaust at this point due to the warranty... d'oh!
Old 05-05-2013, 03:49 PM
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Sorry guys, not been back here in a long time. I'll give you the full story of everything that's gone down. It got the car back about 2 weeks after I gave it to them and got the new engine bad news. They called me the day before and told me that as soon as they got an annoying "Check oil light" worked out it be ready to pick up. I went in the next day and got the car and about 2 miles down the road after picking it up the "check oil" light came on. I turned around and took it back to the dealer and they worked on it again for about 30 minuted until they got the light off. Drove the car for two days and the light came back on again. But I couldn't take it back then because it was at night and the shop was closed. The next day the light came on and off again several times and then went off. I called the dealer and asked if I should bring the car in knowing that the light was coming on and off again. They told me to bring it in when the light was on. Two weeks ago the light came on when I was driving to work so I took the car in.

Four days later I got a call saying the car was fixed and I could come pick it up. But an hour later I get another call saying that when they cleaned the car up they hit the mirror and knocked if off the front windshield. The mirror is glued onto the glass and took a large chunk of glass with the mirror. So they had to have the car for two more days to replace the front windshield. I got a call the day the windshield was put in and they asked me if I had a large dent on my windshield pillar before? Seeing that my car had no dents on it I told them NO! Turns out the glass people must have had something in the door and closed it and smashed out my front left door and window post denting the crap out of both of them. I do auto body work so I went right over to see how much these people had messed up my otherwise perfect car. I told them I'd take it to work and fax them the estimate for the repairs and they agreed to this. However, one mile down the road the "check oil" light came back on again!!!!!!! So I turned it around and took it back to the dealer and it's still there now.

After almost a week with no word at all of what was going on I called and asked for a report of the progress. They told me that because my car had a "catastrophic" engine failure and parts of the engine seal had come off that the thinking was that bits of the seal had got into the oil system. They've replaced the oil pump more then a few times and it will work for some time and then fail again. So now they ordered and ANOTHER new engine, oil lines and oil coolers and everything to do with the oil system.

So now I can wait for another engine and see what else they can do to damage my body on my car so I can fix it.
Old 05-05-2013, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by pcs
any updates by chance? and any mods?

i'm concerned about getting even an intake and an exhaust at this point due to the warranty... d'oh!

100% stock. No modifications at all. 100% Mazda parts.

I run 10W 20 Dino oil just to keep Mazda happy. My fear was running another oil could give them a reason to void the warranty. Turns out they haven't asked me for any records of my service work or receipts of my oil changes. And this dealership uses 10W 30 synthetic oil in their cars. I know this because I asked what kind of oil they used in my car so I could top it off with the same kind of oil.
Old 05-05-2013, 05:34 PM
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Wow...who is the dealer?
Old 05-14-2013, 11:09 AM
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Any updates on this yet?
Old 05-14-2013, 12:21 PM
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I think its important to point the dealer out so others can see where not to take their cars.
Old 05-14-2013, 03:13 PM
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I know the Dealer and in fairness to them it appears that this dealer may have got a bad US reman from Virginia as MNAO no longer has or uses brand new S2 engines out of Mazda Japan...(as I said many months ago once a car is out of production Engine Assemblies, Transmissions and Body Shells are no longer made, naturally individual new parts still are).

While I have confidence this issue will be resolved, I am not so sure what the owner is being told 'what' parts are being renewed is 100% correct...might be lost in translation?.
Old 05-14-2013, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hoss -05
I think its important to point the dealer out so others can see where not to take their cars.
In my area you really don't have many options to take a car. And to tell you the truth I'm not as mad about the engine stuff as you'd think. Don't get me wrong, I'm not happy that a $34K car can't go 3 years without a new engine. But I'm not mad at the dealer having engine problems. It's not like they built the thing. And I'm sure they'd love to get the thing fixed and never see it again.

I'm not happy however with my cars body being damaged and will now need bodywork when it didn't have a dent on it when she went in.

Still, they don't call me at all and if I want info then I must call. And I'm not always 100% sure that what I'm being told is 100% dead on. I've not been told anything in over a week. If they don't call me before Friday then I'm going to drive over and see them.
Old 05-14-2013, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ASH8
I know the Dealer and in fairness to them it appears that this dealer may have got a bad US reman from Virginia as MNAO no longer has or uses brand new S2 engines out of Mazda Japan...(as I said many months ago once a car is out of production Engine Assemblies, Transmissions and Body Shells are no longer made, naturally individual new parts still are).

While I have confidence this issue will be resolved, I am not so sure what the owner is being told 'what' parts are being renewed is 100% correct...might be lost in translation?.
^^that doesn't explain the rest of their Keystone Cops antics
Old 05-14-2013, 11:41 PM
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My mistake was not telling them to not put a new glass in after they messed it up. When they called and said that the glass was broken I should've told them I'd have my people replace it. And not some guys I've never seen. I know how hard it is to find people who take pride in their work. My gut told me not to let just anyone replace it but I didn't want to get into it with anyone.

As for the motor, it will all work out in the end. I know a guy who took 3 months for his 8 to get a motor in it so it's not like I'm having the worst luck ever.


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