averyrm

I have a 2009 R3 with the Bose factory system. I decided I wanted better audio, but wanted to keep a factory-looking install. I also wanted to be smart with money and save where I could.

Here's what I came up with:

MS-8


The JBL MS-8 will take the line-in from the factory head unit and output up to 8 channels from it. All of these channels are amplified at 18w RMS. I mounted the MS-8 in place of the Bose amplifier. I used a piece of MDF screwed into the factory holes to mount it on.

To connect the MS-8, I cut into the factory harness and soldered RCA cables directly to the front door speaker inputs. I used the factory amp wiring and then soldered all of the outputs to the separate speakers as follows: (Terminal codes from: Page 259 and 260 of the 2009 service highlights

Terminal 3C (Blue/White) ---------- RCA input 1 (-) Left Input
Terminal 3D (Yellow/Green) ------- RCA input 1 (+)
Terminal 3E (Blue/Red) ------------ RCA input 2 (-) Right Input
Terminal 3F (Light Green/Red) ---- RCA input 2 (+)
Terminal 1A (White/Red) ---------- 12v (+)
Terminal 1B (Black) ---------------- Ground
Terminal 3A (Purple/Pink) --------- REM IN+

For the output connections, left and right are reversed in the manual when viewed from the driver's seat. With that in mind, I connected the wires as follows:

Terminal 2G (Blue/Black) ----- Channel 1 (-) --- Left Tweeter
Terminal 2E (Blue/White) ----- Channel 1 (+)
Terminal 1G (Green/Yellow) -- Channel 2 (-) --- Center Channel
Terminal 1H (Blue/Black) ----- Channel 2 (+)
Terminal 2K (Yellow/Black) --- Channel 3 (-) --- Right Tweeter
Terminal 2L (Yellow/White) --- Channel 3 (+)
Terminal 2M (Red) ------------ Channel 4 (-) --- Left Woofer
Terminal 2O (White) ---------- Channel 4 (+)
Terminal 2B (Yellow/Red) ---- Channel 5 (-) --- Right Woofer
Terminal 2D (White/Black) --- Channel 5 (+)
Terminal 1E (Pink) ------------ Channel 6 (-) --- Left Rear
Terminal 1F (Purple) ---------- Channel 6 (+)
Terminal 1C (Black/Blue) ----- Channel 7 (-) --- Right Rear
Terminal 1D (White/Blue) ----- Channel 7 (+)

My initial plan was to run the factory Bose speakers, until I read that the stock woofers were 0.5 ohm. The MS-8 will not power speakers with that low of a resistance.

So I had to buy goodies. All of these were purchased at Parts-Express:



RS75-4 3" Full Range as a Center Channel (After fitting, I'm positive I could have fit the 4" version of this). This was mounted using the factory speaker attachment and some bolts.



Vifa OC25SC65-04 1" Soft Dome Tweeter (Perhaps not the most ideal, but it's working well). Mounted using double sided tape (wrapped 2x around the inside of the tweeter cutout.)




RS180-4 7" Midrange (Possibly could have fit the 8" version of this, but I was concerned with depth and the 7" is less expensive). Mounted using 1/2" MDF. I'll be checking on this to make sure it stays dry.

Then came setting up the MS-8:

Subwoofer - 0
Front Speakers, 2-way, HPF - 50Hz w/24dB slope, X-over - 2750Hz w/6dB slope
Center Channel, 1-way HPF 150Hz w/24dB/oct. slope
Side Speakers, 1-way HPF 50Hz w/24dB/oct. slope
Rear Speakers - None

Channel 1 - FL Hi
Channel 2 - CC
Channel 3 - FR Hi
Channel 4 - FL Lo
Channel 5 - FR Lo
Channel 6 - SL
Channel 7 - SR

After that, I put on the headphones that came with the kit and ran the auto calibration in the front two seats. I found that I had to run this a few times until I was totally satisfied. I'm not sure if this was due to my error, outside interference, or what.

Now the sound is absolutely fantastic, I'm not even sure I need to add a sub. Seriously the best sounding vehicle I've been in.

I'm pretty new to an active 2-way setup, so I'm still playing around with this. Take everything with a grain of salt...

Oh, and since someone may want to know:
MS-8 ----------- $400 Factory Refurbished
Woofers --------- 100
Tweeters --------- 32
Center Channel - 22
Total----------- $554

Not too bad.

Steve Dallas

Wow. This is just what I was looking for. I have read that the Bose amp is not replaceable, as a gross, distorted signal is sent to it. That statement never made any sense to me unless digital signals are being sent, which I do not believe due to cost reasons alone.

My situation is a little different than yours. I put Infinity tweeters in the doors, kept the 9" Bose drivers in the doors, put Infinity 6x9s in the rear deck, and disconnected the Bose tweeters back there. I also added a JL Audio 10" sub and Alpine 300W mono amp. It sounds much better than factory, but the Bose amp is not enough to power the rear 6x9s adequately, and I would like to put Infinity 6.5" speakers in the doors to achieve a vocal match to the tweeters and rear fills. The Bose drivers just sound out of place.

The solution I have had rattling in the back of my alcohol addled mind is to replace the Bose amp with an Alpine 4 channel unit using the factory wiring. You have just given me all the information I need to accomplish that. And I will take a closer look at the MS-8 before I do anything. Thanks!

BTW, Vifa makes some of the best sounding tweeters on the planet. Good choice!

averyrm

Glad to help.

Be careful, as I think the input to the Bose amp uses a differential input. The MS-8 can handle that, but I'm not sure about other amps.

Steve Dallas

Thanks. I will keep that in mind. I had not thought of differential inputs for no other reason than Bose likes to do things on the cheap. If true, that would explain some of the problems others have reported. Interestingly, the sound from the Alpine amp I am using for my sub is clear and distortion free according to my oscilloscope.

I take it you left the Bose speakers in the rear or did not use speakers back there at all?

averyrm

I was just going off of what others have reported with the differential inputs, I'm not positive on that. If it isn't, that'd really open up options for people.

Yes, I left the Bose in the rear. The MS8 does some weird things with rear fill and I'm not sure how important they are to the sound. When it's all together it sounds great though.

I'll be adding a sub soon in the passthrough. I have a JBL GTO 804 lying around that only needs .3 cu ft, so that might fit the bill.

blu3dragon

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the write up. You just inspired me to do something about the sound in my 2010 sport. No bose amp in that. 1st step for me is to replace the speakers and run them off the factory wiring and head unit. Depending on how that sounds I might then go back and add one of these. It is actually the effort of wiring up the whole car for it that is making me hold off for now. I'm assuming the wiring won't exist for me to hook it up as easily as you did. I'm also assuming I won't be able to get a line out from the base head unit and I'll need to use the speaker outs instead.

averyrm

If you go for the MS-8, it will take line-level inputs and process them without any issue. I got my MS-8 off of the HarmanAudio.com's eBay site for less than $400 with factory warranty.

I'd assume there wouldn't be power run back to the same site on a base model, but there should still be the place to mount it. I'd think you'd still have room for the center speaker too (a must have when running the MS-8). The parts-express drivers are excellent for the price as well.

Good luck with whatever you plan!

blu3dragon

iTrader: (1)

I think you mean it will take speaker level inputs :-) My only thought is that they might be lower quality than using line level inputs.

I will take a look at the wiring when I replace the rear speakers, but to install the amp back there I am expecting to need to feed power and the 4 speaker channels back, then 4 speaker channels forward (2 to each door). I was not planning to do a center speaker, I did not think that was needed, but the car does at least have a grill for it so I'll also look at that before getting the MS-8. At under 400 it sounds like a bargain and it is the install rather than the cost that is putting me off.

Thanks for all the tips!

Gras13

Nice write up

Steve Dallas

How does that Dayton 3" driver sound in the center? Putting a speaker that is designed to have an enclosure in the dash of a car is always risky business. How is it working for you? Also, how much fitting (and where) did you have to do to get the driver to fit?

I normally eschew center speakers and any sort of signal processing like Centerpoint, but I just discovered it really helps with the midrange hole I created for myself by replacing the front tweeters. But the factory Bose speaker sounds lousy and is too loud. If I could find a better sounding, inefficient driver for that location, I might consider installing one. The specs on your Dayton are 83dB at 4 Ohms, which may be close to the factory Bose. That may be too loud for me. I want something that will inject just a tiny bit of mids to the mix without calling attention to itself and destroying the stereo imaging the way the Bose driver does. Perhaps I should be looking at the RS75T-8 at 8 Ohms?

averyrm

The 3" sounds great, the processing may help that though. No distortion that I could hear, even though it's free-air. I do still have the high pass at 150.

To mount it, I destroyed the original Bose speaker by removing the diaphragm and magnet. I then attached the new speaker to the old plastic ring with bolts and clay to keep down the vibration.

Steve Dallas

Thanks for the info! I think I will spend my money on trying a different set of tweeters that are more suited to the job before I go this route, but I will certainly keep it rattling around in the back of my beer-addled brain in case I need it.

REtali8

iTrader: (2)

Am really liking this thread. Amp keeps cutting out and dealer wants 875 for replacement. Being able to keep stock HU and add aftermarket speakers would be nice.