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Anyone figure out the deal with the 70 degree max?
Just curious for those of you who have replaced your deck. I totally forgot until today that the display (which moves to the left after swapping decks) maxes out at 70F. I was wondering why the past few days have been exactly 70 when i got out of work lolol. Anyone figure out a way to fix that, or hear anything through the grapevine regarding a Metra-like display adapter?
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PS if anyone has a S2 shop manual, mind posting the wiring for the back of the stock deck? When we replace our decks one of the two adapters is no longer used which I assume is the one that would control the clock. I am wondering if we could custom make a circuit that would allow us to do something like metra, or to fool the display into thinking the stock deck is back in there so we can restore the proper temp display. (Computer Engineer Here)
BRAND : METRA
MODEL : 70-7903T
TYPE : MAZDA SERVICE HARNESS
CONDITION : BRAND NEW
MAZDA SERVICE HARNESS
Allows User To Plug In The OEM Radio To Adjust The Clock Time Of An Installed Aftermarket Radio Without Disassembling Dash Or Having To Remove.
Unplugs After Clock Adjustment And Tucks Out Of Sight.
Yup, thats exactly what it is. Looks like the CX7 guys have the same issues with replacing their stereo's except they have a lot more valuable information on the screen that they want to retain. From our PM conversations this may require some further investigation for a far simpler solution.
So after looking at some service manual pages, looks like the information display is using the CANBUS as opposed to SPL which is what the older series used. Our AC controls display information via canbus, and the radio displays the clock via canbus, and the outside temp shows info via canbus.
Looking at the OBD2 port, the 3rd pin from the right on the top and bottom are the Tx and Rx respectively. Now we just gotta figure out how to wire a canbus device to those two pins and send the ID with some data and hope for the best lol.
You have to hook up the Acc wire, 1R, to 12v power as well, the other wire is the ROOM fuse so that is battery power only to keep the station presets, etc. 1R terminal is key in accessory position.
Also what are you exactly doing? Your last couple posts are a little vague. Are you trying to make a jumper harness with the factory radio to program your clock like the Metra unit or are you trying to power up the factory radio and watch the CAN signals?
Ahhh thats what i missed then. Yea basically I have an open ended OBD2 cable, what i did was hook up the pinouts on the radio harness input to the obd2 wire. I was hoping I could then plug in the obd2 which would in turn then turn on the radio and hopefully pass some CAN signals across the network to reset the clock and stuff.
In lieu of doing all this, I actually managed to get an ELM CAN to USB adapter since I actually found the CAN codes to write alphanumeric text on the center of the display sort of like how the metra does. Get's delivered tomorrow, crossing my fingers that I can pull off transmitting some CAN messages without too many issues.
Figured I would keep this updated, but I managed to get my hands on a CANBUS reader that is based on the ELM327 chipset. It's a lower-end obd sniffer but should suffice for what I am trying to do. At first glance it looks like it connected to the HS-CAN bus which displays all the information we are used to seeing on things like the scangauge etc. I can see a bunch of data flowing from various addresses, and it seems that there is only one ECU on this line, which is the main diagnostics ecu.
I took apart the device and found that it was only wired for the HS-CAN, so I will need to modify it. I found that the center display runs off of the MS-CAN. Hopefully once I rewire this thing and pop it in, I should be able to see some messages going to the information display panel.