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I will get a bigger/better pic when i get home from work, but it looks like it might be down to bare metal. I know that I risk it rusting, but after talkign to the body shop at my dealership he said "without me looking at it .. roughly 350" to fix. Thoughts?
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Last edited by paimon.soror; 04-05-2011 at 12:10 PM.
Theres a couple different methods that seem to work, atleast on paper, soror.
1. Mazda has a double-sided Paint Pen. One tip OEM paint color, the other side has clear coat. It works, if you get the paint to flow from the darn pen. Mine went in the trash after being frustrated.
2. Duplicolor's "Scratch Fix 2 in 1". Uses putty, which tends to work not all that well if you aren't careful are the putty is real thick on warm days. I find using the putty is a hit or miss method. I haven't tried the rest of the product but it includes a lot of items - including sand paper.
3. Lanka. No putty. Includes sealer. Works with Dry paint, great for those horrible brush-on quickie jobs. $40. Does not require any special paint type.
- Apply Paint, making sure to get more than what you need. Wait until dry (Upto 4 days).
- Use included Blob Removal and the card wrapped with old t-shirt- no lint, no napping material- to smooth the touchup.
- Use Included sealant
4. Dr. Colorchip. Paint is formulated for Dr Colorchip. Works with wet paint. $50. (May not work with Mazda paint)
- Apply paint, smear the paint across with a t-shirt
- Apply included blending solution.
I like #4, if it works, i'll be the second one to order some.. right after paimon.
__________________ 2008 VW / Jetta Wolfsburg 2.0T / Reflex Silver Metallic Clearcoat. Current.
2009 Mazda / RX-8 R3 (FE17) / Aurora Electric Blue Mica. Traded
2001 Toyota / Corolla CE (E114) / Sandrift Metallic. Totalled - Not at Fault.
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Thanks for the tips, I saw the lanka but I thought you had to have some of the paint from mazda itself so it would have cost similar to #4. I will be sure to take some pics of the process to see if it works any better on a darker paint vs the red.