badinfluence

I would like to make a sticky for the first edits for Mazdaedit tuning on the Series II. I am going to need some sources for said sticky....


Here is what I would normally, do. I need an idiot check on this to make sure I am following the right path for the RX8 Series II.


#1: Calibrate MAF Sensor/Voltage and Injector Number 1 at Idle
#2: Calibrate Limiter Tables, OMP, and Fans
#3: Build Base Map if boosted to a Load of 200%
#4: Calibrate Injector 2 and 3 (if S1) at a constant load and rpm
#5: Verify MAF and Injector Values at WOT if NA using target AFR's, if FI, lightly touch boost and verify Target AFR's are being obtained.
#6: If needed, tune Fuel VE% table to accommodate VE changes (boost, porting, etc).

(Thanks whomever changed the 1-6 for me. I am going to leave it untouched) - Anytime

A few things that are throwing me off the whole thing are.
#1 DTC OPT? Table: This table doesn't look complete, it has 0,1,3, and FFFF values. I am curious on that it does. I do NOT think it is binary like the other two tables.
#2 "Test" tables: Coolant vs Fanspeed: Not sure why they are "test"
#3 Battery Voltage Stability: This is exactly why I jumped into the tune on this car. I wanted to see how much voltage stability is important for this car, and how much it influences said "tune." On drive by wire, I see this being EXTREMELY important. Even if the car has switching regulators at Max efficiency on the ECU, if the voltage drops below a certain point, it cannot be boosted any farther or may create noise if it is a buck/boost style (which I doubt). I see a Supercapacitor being of great use if you can increase the voltage of the coils. (ECU tables goes all the way to 16.5 volts, I do not think past 15 is safe)

Collaboration encouraged, will be keeping this factual. No Badinfluence style arguments allowed.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Calibrating the MAF for idle will be the first thing because it is a known value. The rest of MAF calibration will depend on your fuel system. If you have upgraded injectors for example then your MAF calibration will only be as good as your fuel injector assumptions. If you start running boost then it can also throw off MAF calibration because the fuel injectors will flow less at higher boost levels.

Because of this I recommend calibrating the majority of the MAF outside of boost with stock injectors. Once you have a baseline you can interpolate it out for higher flows/voltages and calibrate accordingly.
Another thing you need to do is compress your existing ignition/fuel maps to add room for the higher load. I took out half the columns moved everything to the left then added new columns up to 200% load.

The ecu interpolates values between points which is why there are sometimes multiple columns with the same values on the edges. I call these bookends. The purpose is to cause the ecu to use the same value constantly when at values beyond the tables. If you for example had a drastic change in fueling between 1.90 and 2.00 (assuming load tops out at 2.0) then the ecu will continue adding fuel at the same rate >2.0 or if you set the fueling the same at 1.9 and 2.0 the ecu will keep the same value when >2.0

If the ecu never sees values outside the tables it doesn't matter either way, but I don't think it's worth the risk.

I'm sure others will chime in. I'm far from an expert, but I can make it work.

badinfluence

I want to add something to either #2 or #3, but I don't know the Answer. The question is for the CEL Tables. There is 3 options.
CEL 1
CEL 2
and CEL 3.

The values for MazdaEdit seem to be 1 and 0, but why 3 tables..... I want to go over which CELs to disable if you have a Catless, or a factory cat that ate itself. (It isn't tampering if the cat ate itself.....)

logalinipoo

look up the passing inspection thread. Team posted a big list. If you block just the specific ones that pop up when you check codes it will not reach readyness to pass an inspection. So you need to block the extra associated codes also.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Forgot to mention the first edit you want to make for running boosted is remove the Load limiters. Take the Max load, baro load, and IAT load curves and make them 2.0. These are there to cap the max load value if the MAF has a noisy signal, but when you hit loads >1 it will prevent the ecu from reading higher.

logalinipoo

harlan's right, but down low you might want to keep the limiters in place. If you have a MAF problem it calculates load based on those limiters. If they are all set high then when you touch the pedal they become multipliers and will greatly over fuel. So figure out where your turbo begins spooling then below that leave them stock.

During a fault if you drive very easy you will get it home. It you try to go in boost it will dump tons of fuel and be relatively safe.

skc

Subscribing

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

just read all the threads for tuning an S1 with either a Cobb AP or Mazdaedit. It's essentially the same process

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

This.

tuned my s2 without any requirement of "s2 specific" tweaks.

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Nah mane, completely different cars. Completely...

Its the exact same process with piston engined cars too guys.

badinfluence

No Turbo, stock tuning. Maybe make changes at the open loop/closed loop barrier? (I think 6K rpm)

badinfluence

The tuning part is straight forward, it is the logic I am mostly worried about. Basically worried that the logic follows a different path on the S2. I don't have a Series 1 Hex to examine the difference between the ECU maps in Mazdaedit.

The "DTC Opt?" table confuses me. Some values have 1,00, and 3. Some are FFFF or unparsed, that scares the hell out of me. I added a little to the top. I am in the logging phase at this point.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you can't see the forest because of the trees, that's why you always come across like a deer frozen in the headlights ...

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Are you a poet, Team?

Badinfluence, if you want an S1 map to look at I can send you my oem tune. I give no idea how or why that could possibly help you in any way, but if you're curious just ask.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

the thing is tuning an NA RX8 is REALLY, REALLY simple, but people who want to get into splitting irrelevant RCHs into micro-fragments can make it as complicated as they want it to be ...

badinfluence

How about disabling the OMP or reducing the steps if you premix? (Is it possible or does the PCM freak)

I think disabling it all together is a bad idea since it works like the Series 1 and the FD combined with the hybrid 2 part oiling setup.

I run premix as a safety measure against that Texas heat, and I would rather keep my oil as oil unless I really need it at the top end. I usually add a bit of transmission fluid to the oil since it is very similar to Petit's premix, but is STUPID expensive to use as just regular oil and may not work correctly.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

dont reduce steps. iirc the point of the omp is really driven towards cooling temperatures across contact surfaces of the apex seals against the housings.

I increased my OMP rate by 15% and continue to premix. No ill effects, plugs dont foul, mind you I drive the car hard and autox helps too.

badinfluence

What range did you increase it at? Do you have a SS of the table? Ill follow suit.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

I'll do my best to remember grab you one when I get home, but literally 15% across the board. I think I have a ss here somewhere in one of the threads, i'll see if i can find it, I also got your PM and will get you that info as well. Sorry, busy busy busy lately

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

base


modified


Reference:https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-eng...3/#post4578449

And i misspoke .. im actually @ 30% not 15

badinfluence

What oil do you run do you run for this?


No rush man, I am not in any hurry to rush and **** something up. Still collecting data about my RaceRoots LS2 Ignition and relocation of the plugs.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

mobil1 0w40 in the sump
amsoil sabre pro / idemitsu in the tank (4-6oz)

badinfluence

Non-syn right? the gold one?

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

all of the listed are synthetic.

(pricey, but a fantastic premix, regardless of application)
AMSOIL SABER® Professional Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil

(personally i prefer this as my premix...maybe placebo, but it just `feels` smoother)
Premix at Idemitsu Lubricants America Corporation

(best UOA's I have had on my car, and ive tried a ton, pennzoil, royal purple, German Castrol..)
Mobil 1 0W-40 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qt. - Walmart.com

badinfluence

No clogging? Not FULL synthetic right? Would you mind sending me your Mazdaedit maps? I want to see if I have anything else I am missing. I think my PCM has a corrupt base map or maybe the uC has a bad block. It seemed to confuse Epifan and he didn't know what to say, and then stopped responding.