Ian_D

I want to get oil temp and pressure for my R3 on cockpit gauges. However, for sensors the easy route of an oil filter sandwich plate looks out as the oil filter is surrounded by walls that leave insufficient room for sensors and connections.

To get oil temp I could tap into the sump or fit a modified connection at the sump, but that still leaves me short of an oil pressure location. I can't see an obvious place and think I'll have to remove a few things and get dirty to look further.

When I do a DIY installation I'll put a write-up here.

Can anyone help with any info or advice?

Update: I decided what I wanted to do, fitted both pressure and temperature gauges and did a write-up. See the second post on page 2.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Oil temp is best read from the oil coolers using a modified banjo bolt. Another possibility is to read it from the oil pan. I've tried both and the oil cooler method makes the most sense.

Oil pressure can be read from the block itself using a service port (aka blind plug).

LiveWire

iTrader: (1)

I ran into the same problem. That blind plug is extremely hard to access unfortunately. I bought two modified banjo bolts from rx8performance and plan on using the following link:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-bolts-235867/

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Would it be possible to use the stock oil pressure switch location? I'm not sure of the thread size, but if the sensor fits then shorting the oil pressure switch's connector is all that you would need to trick the ecu into thinking the switch is still installed.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

legot, they are talking series Ii here.

Remove the UIM, should be easy to get to the the blind plug.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Even easier to remove the driver side wheel and reach up.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

Ian_D

Guys, thanks.

That blind plug looks interesting. I don't know what that pipe supplies, What the sensor length can be and the thread size, so I'll search the manuals over the weekend.

The modified banjo bolt looks good. However, I can't find any over here in the UK so I'm hoping the US suppliers will sell to here.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You could just drill and tap a stock Banjo bolt.

Ian_D

Thanks, I did consider that but decided I lack the confidence to do it.

I'm not a stranger to tapping and have some kit (a pillar mount for a drill to drill the hole and variety of taps and dies that I use for cleaning up threads). However, I've struggled to tap new threads into aluminium casings, often ending up drilling out and putting in helicoil threads, and am wary of bodging it on this high pressure system. Also, by the time that I've bought the banjo bolts and a $15 1/8 NPT tap set I may not save much over buying direct.

Having said all that, I'd still consider trying it if my other methods fall down.

Ian_D

Having said the above, I've just realized that I dont need to get a banjo bolt now to ensure that I can get back on the road straightaway (I just put the original one back on) if I screw up. My project car has its oil drained so I can take a bolt off to experiment with.

I think I'll give it a go.

Ian_D

I managed to get a quick look at the blind plug location in between rain showers. Access looks tricky from above; I think a combination of looking from above and accessing via the wheel well will work. I'll try that tomorrow, weather permitting.

However, I see a possible problem. My pressure sensor looks too wide for the plumbing around the plug. i'm taking the wheels off tomorrow so will be able to have a better look then.

logalinipoo

Taping steel is a lot easier than aluminum. With alum it is very easy to strip the first few threads and mess up the whole piece. Steel is a lot easier. Also when taping a new thread. About every half turn of the tap back it off 1/4 turn to break off the curl inside. Every 2 turns or less remove the tap and clean out the hole.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

This will help if accessing the blind plug is a pita. Worked great for when i used to have the oil pressure gauge in my car (eventually you might get bored of it and realize that the fuel pressure gauge is more important ... and much easier to install lol).

Remote oil pressure sender

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

That is pretty good. It would work as an oil feed for a turbo too with the right AN adapter

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

The ID is really small on the inlet and outlet so i dont know if that would work out for a oil feed (then again i dont know what a good size line is for that kind of application

GripDecision

im going to try the blind plug once it gets cooler around here i have the pbm oil pressure, volt meter and coolant temp, digital gauge..

Black2010R3

iTrader: (1)

I put my pressure sensor in the blind plug, which I think required an adapter, probably 1/8" BSP to 1/8" NPT, but don't quote me on that. It was awkward to reach, but certainly not impossible and I don't recall if I did it from above, below or otherwise. For the temperature, I used an AutoMeter 2267 adapter, 14x1.5 to 1/8" NPT in place of the drain plug and put the temperature sensor there. I cut the head down to maybe half height and tapped it deeper to ensure that the sensor element would extend into the sump and not be shrouded by the adapter too much. I don't think I cut away any threads, but this too will help if they will be sticking into the pan any distance beyond the pan threads. This is essential for having your sensor read correctly and react quickly, otherwise there will be considerable lag time.

Ian_D

I've now been able to return to this after life got in the way.

I've now found out by experience:
The blind plug is best reached from the LHS engine bay rather than through the wheel well. Take off the engine cover, remove the tower bar (8 x14 mm nuts), release a water hose from its clip and take off the 12 mm nut holding on the air con/heating pipe next to the water bottle. Lean over the LHS wing, reach in at a diagonal angle from the front of the water bottle to the blind plug.
The plug takes a 5 mm Hex (Allen) male key.
Apply loads of penetrating oil and leave to soak before trying to remove the plug.
I used a 1/4" hex drive set with an articulated joint to get the plug out. I first tried a hex/Allen key but couldn't apply enough torque; I then tried the hex drive set without applying penetrating oil, shearing the 5 mm Hex bit (serves me right for being impatient).
The plug has a 1/8" BSPT thread so, as I found out, most flexible hose adapters will need to have their 1/8" NPT ends replacing with a 1/8" BSPT threaded end. Note that the thread is BSPT as the thread diameter tapers slightly at the start.

Fitting the gauges in an air vent double pod and running the associated wiring was pretty straightforward.

I'm now waiting for a 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT male adapter to complete the pressure gauge installation. Then I'll do the temperature gauge.

GripDecision

Awesome. Question do you have the link for the adaptor and are you going to use Teflon tape on the fittings ?

Ian_D

I got them from ebay.co.uk as I'm in the UK. For adapter (see above post for pic) item 371211964780 and the 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT was item 111516649253.

I always use Teflon tape. Note that
:-) the purpose of Teflon tape is to lubricate threads to allow a better seal at the ends. It isn't there to form a seal; you need a sealant for that if the joint leaks.
:-) be careful to leave a little of the thread free at the seal end to avoid tape getting in the lines.

G_ man

iTrader: (2)

Also you could add a little pipe thread dope over the teflon tape

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You really should use high temp thread sealant, not teflon tape. I use the permatex brand, works well.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

^ this. Most sensors use the threaded body as ground (even though a separate ground wire exists on sensors) so its best not to use teflon tape.

Ian_D

I disagree as:
I've never met a sensor with an earth wire that also needs earthing through the mounting point.
A large number of, if not most, sensor mounting points are not connected to earth. (only one of my 5 sensors over 2 cars have a mounting point connected to earth)
The sealing point should have body to sensor contact even if the tape is wound over that part of the male thread.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

disagree if you wish, but the reason that sensors will have an extra ground wire is in the event that the mounting point doesn't live on the common ground circuit. For example, the pipe coupler on the upper radiator hose . If you replace with aftermarket you lose its connection to ground. That is why most couplers will even have a screw on them so you can run to ground. Another example being an aeromotive fuel adapter for fuel pressure, there is no ground there.

go ahead and tap your sender directly to the oil pan, or directly to the blind plug ... disconnect the separate ground wire, and the sender will still work... (unless you coated the threads in tape)