DIY: Series II 2009 RX-8 Oil Change
08-13-2010, 05:59 PM
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08-15-2010, 03:26 PM
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Last edited by Beefy98; 02-20-2011 at 01:04 PM.
09-21-2010, 12:05 AM
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I had the same problem you did at the dealership. I called and complain that my local mechanic would have done a better job and charge me alot less. 
Maybe the mechanic was just haten' you know envying our rides. An old saying "if you want something done right, do it yourself" Peace
09-26-2010, 03:02 AM
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09-26-2010, 03:38 AM
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My state (South Australia) has just come out of our Coldest Winter in 40 years!!, and one of our wettest (rain) in over 15 years...finally we seem to have broken our 10 year water drought, all our reservoirs and dams are overflowing!!
But how can this be...all that Global Warming/ Climate Change BS..
But how can this be...all that Global Warming/ Climate Change BS..
10-07-2010, 02:04 PM
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just did my 2nd oil change. what a nightmare that metal sheet with the 7 screws is. I wanna strangle the engineers. My neck is effed.
BTW, if you use Castrol jugs be careful there are now 3 sizes. The 4 qt, the 5 qt, and now a new 5 liter which is 5.3 qts! The last 2 look identical. Be careful to read the graduations on the side right.
BTW, if you use Castrol jugs be careful there are now 3 sizes. The 4 qt, the 5 qt, and now a new 5 liter which is 5.3 qts! The last 2 look identical. Be careful to read the graduations on the side right.
10-07-2010, 04:10 PM
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I want to cut the metal guard as shown. the big part will stay intact and u can drain the oil thru the hole already there. then the smaller piece on the side can be removed with one screw so u can acess the oil filter.
10-07-2010, 04:34 PM
#59
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Can't see any reason why not...
I know it is a PITA, I remove 6 of the 7 bolts and leave the middle Rear one loose, and then just SWING the complete Sump Guard around and out of the way...that way you do not need to remove the tray completely.
AND remember these Trays Cost a Fortune...over $400 Retail
F189-34-H80D Under Cover
I know it is a PITA, I remove 6 of the 7 bolts and leave the middle Rear one loose, and then just SWING the complete Sump Guard around and out of the way...that way you do not need to remove the tray completely.
AND remember these Trays Cost a Fortune...over $400 Retail
F189-34-H80D Under Cover
10-14-2010, 07:54 PM
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Thanks for writing up this great DIY. Did my first oil change today.
I have a 2010 model but my fumoto drain valve doesn't fit (without the ADL). I wonder if anyone else has this problem.
I have a 2010 model but my fumoto drain valve doesn't fit (without the ADL). I wonder if anyone else has this problem.
02-20-2011, 12:36 PM
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I'll admit...............this post is mainly intended for Ash!
Was helping a fellow member("T", who will be reading this eventually) in doing an oil/filter, plugs, and air filter change this morning on his 2009(S2).
Now, we could've drained the oil without pulling the sump plate, but since I had never done an S2 and needed to get at the filter, we went ahead and dropped the plate. First, I had to find the friggin filter! (ha ha)
Even given the plate removal(which isn't that bad, just do it...............don't bother swinging it on one bolt, just drop it and get it out of the way), I found it to be a huge pain in the **** in getting the oil filter out and new one in.
What freakin genius came up with that placement?
Keep in mind I have a series 1, so my oil filter cap wrech tool wouldn't work, but even so..........and I have several other types(some of which are pictured above), but there has to be a better way!
Have you tried going through the wheel well to get at that filter? What is the recommended tool for this(although I'm off to search here in a moment)............is it just the series two type cap wrech tool and the right socket extension with swivel?
("T", the fellow member), it looks like most people are saying use the "Griot's claw style filter wrench", but I wanna ask Ash what is the best?
As we discussed, I usually put mine on hand tight and then just a little bit more with a wrench, and was able to do the same thing your car, but was more jerking around than it should have been given the tightness of the space.
I just found that they do have the cap type tool for you car...............see............. http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=273&page=2
"T", I'd be leery about getting it at Autozone to get this as you didn't take your old filter, and the sizing would be crucial. Think I would just buy it from the above next time you need more stuff!
Good news................plugs went real well.......no issues and was cake(Um.....pie.........I mean....I like pie!).
One last one before I go look it up Ash.
What the hell is up with changing the air filter on the S2's?
True I haven't has my intake be stock in a long *** time, but I don't remember it being like it was for us today.
I finally said screw it and loosened the accordion to MAF tube clamp and then forced the intake box lid(if you will) up and back enough so he could grab the filter, yank it out, and replace with a new one.
Has it been that long for me, was the series 1 this way as well?
Seems like a pain in the ****.......so I'll have to search and see how it's supposed to be done on a series two.
Dave
Was helping a fellow member("T", who will be reading this eventually) in doing an oil/filter, plugs, and air filter change this morning on his 2009(S2).
Now, we could've drained the oil without pulling the sump plate, but since I had never done an S2 and needed to get at the filter, we went ahead and dropped the plate. First, I had to find the friggin filter! (ha ha)
Even given the plate removal(which isn't that bad, just do it...............don't bother swinging it on one bolt, just drop it and get it out of the way), I found it to be a huge pain in the **** in getting the oil filter out and new one in.
What freakin genius came up with that placement?
Keep in mind I have a series 1, so my oil filter cap wrech tool wouldn't work, but even so..........and I have several other types(some of which are pictured above), but there has to be a better way!
Have you tried going through the wheel well to get at that filter? What is the recommended tool for this(although I'm off to search here in a moment)............is it just the series two type cap wrech tool and the right socket extension with swivel?
("T", the fellow member), it looks like most people are saying use the "Griot's claw style filter wrench", but I wanna ask Ash what is the best?
As we discussed, I usually put mine on hand tight and then just a little bit more with a wrench, and was able to do the same thing your car, but was more jerking around than it should have been given the tightness of the space.
I just found that they do have the cap type tool for you car...............see............. http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=273&page=2
"T", I'd be leery about getting it at Autozone to get this as you didn't take your old filter, and the sizing would be crucial. Think I would just buy it from the above next time you need more stuff!
Good news................plugs went real well.......no issues and was cake(Um.....pie.........I mean....I like pie!).
One last one before I go look it up Ash.
What the hell is up with changing the air filter on the S2's?
True I haven't has my intake be stock in a long *** time, but I don't remember it being like it was for us today.
I finally said screw it and loosened the accordion to MAF tube clamp and then forced the intake box lid(if you will) up and back enough so he could grab the filter, yank it out, and replace with a new one.
Has it been that long for me, was the series 1 this way as well?
Seems like a pain in the ****.......so I'll have to search and see how it's supposed to be done on a series two.
Dave
Last edited by Mazurfer; 02-20-2011 at 01:39 PM.
02-20-2011, 01:20 PM
#64
^^
I saw that there is a nice little hole to get to the filter from the wheel well as well. If we can find a simple way to do a change from in there it would make life a whole hell of a lot easier than having to remove the sump guards and jamming our hands up the birth canal of the car. Damn rediculous.
And yea, I took my filter out the other day to remove the walls, and the damn thing is so hard to get to. Watched some vids online of S1 guys doing the filter box removal and looked easy, but the S2's are like using industrical grade plastic and rubber that u need an *** load of force to push back that box lol. On top of that you feel like you are going to break the accordion connector.
I saw that there is a nice little hole to get to the filter from the wheel well as well. If we can find a simple way to do a change from in there it would make life a whole hell of a lot easier than having to remove the sump guards and jamming our hands up the birth canal of the car. Damn rediculous.
And yea, I took my filter out the other day to remove the walls, and the damn thing is so hard to get to. Watched some vids online of S1 guys doing the filter box removal and looked easy, but the S2's are like using industrical grade plastic and rubber that u need an *** load of force to push back that box lol. On top of that you feel like you are going to break the accordion connector.
02-20-2011, 01:35 PM
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^................well, then so far I didn't make any really non-intelligent mistakes!
If you look at the wrench tool I linked above, I do believe using that, a small extension, and possibly a swivel, you could get at it through the wheel well. If it wasn't put on by a monkey, you might even be able to remove it by hand. I guess this method would only make sense if doing a plug change at the same time.
I was cautious with the brake line that's right there, but I could get my hand in there and position it for possible torquing/un-torquing.
If you look at the wrench tool I linked above, I do believe using that, a small extension, and possibly a swivel, you could get at it through the wheel well. If it wasn't put on by a monkey, you might even be able to remove it by hand. I guess this method would only make sense if doing a plug change at the same time.
I was cautious with the brake line that's right there, but I could get my hand in there and position it for possible torquing/un-torquing.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 02-20-2011 at 01:37 PM.
02-20-2011, 02:15 PM
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And...........I was disappointed at myself because this whole thing took twice as long as it really should have. 
At one point, we actually came in and looked at this thread because I wasn't expecting an MM Allen for the oil drain plug and couldn't believe it was really that.
I keep looking back and what I guess was the transmission drain plug and pan? Looked more like and oil pan to me and look like it had the drain bolt I was expecting. More so than what I was looking at! 
Once again, this site proves invaluable! Yes, I would've found out as soon as I let it weep out a little, but we figured we'd better check. Glad we did.
So.......Ash.....if the sump pan has an internal magnet, why place one on the outside(filter)....which is what I believe I have heard reference to.
At one point, we actually came in and looked at this thread because I wasn't expecting an MM Allen for the oil drain plug and couldn't believe it was really that.
I keep looking back and what I guess was the transmission drain plug and pan? Looked more like and oil pan to me and look like it had the drain bolt I was expecting. More so than what I was looking at! Once again, this site proves invaluable! Yes, I would've found out as soon as I let it weep out a little, but we figured we'd better check. Glad we did.
So.......Ash.....if the sump pan has an internal magnet, why place one on the outside(filter)....which is what I believe I have heard reference to.
Last edited by Mazurfer; 02-20-2011 at 02:20 PM.
02-20-2011, 04:54 PM
#67
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1. Air filter Removal is No Different to any other OEM RX-8.
2. Swinging the Oil Pan PLATE back on ONE bolt makes it a lot easier to relocate, rather than completely removing and putting it back, particularly if you only have say 8" of space to work in.
3. Yes, IMO the "Oil Filter Cap" is the ONLY way to remove S2 Oil Filter and preferably access through the LH front Wheel removed.
Having changed my Oil Filter about 8 Times I consider my self an expert, and it is still A PITA.
4. Oil Filter Magnet, haven't you ever heard more can sometimes be better...
a) Internal Pan Magnet is permanent (you cant easily remove it or even clean it)
b) Material caught inside the Oil Filter is removed when renewing Oil Filter, and YES you do get metal inside filter can, I have shown that.
IMO the Oil Pan Magnet is only good when the car is standing and oil has/is settled.
2. Swinging the Oil Pan PLATE back on ONE bolt makes it a lot easier to relocate, rather than completely removing and putting it back, particularly if you only have say 8" of space to work in.
3. Yes, IMO the "Oil Filter Cap" is the ONLY way to remove S2 Oil Filter and preferably access through the LH front Wheel removed.
Having changed my Oil Filter about 8 Times I consider my self an expert, and it is still A PITA.
4. Oil Filter Magnet, haven't you ever heard more can sometimes be better...
a) Internal Pan Magnet is permanent (you cant easily remove it or even clean it)
b) Material caught inside the Oil Filter is removed when renewing Oil Filter, and YES you do get metal inside filter can, I have shown that.
IMO the Oil Pan Magnet is only good when the car is standing and oil has/is settled.
02-20-2011, 05:22 PM
#68
1. Air filter Removal is No Different to any other OEM RX-8.
2. Swinging the Oil Pan PLATE back on ONE bolt makes it a lot easier to relocate, rather than completely removing and putting it back, particularly if you only have say 8" of space to work in.
3. Yes, IMO the "Oil Filter Cap" is the ONLY way to remove S2 Oil Filter and preferably access through the LH front Wheel removed.
Having changed my Oil Filter about 8 Times I consider my self an expert, and it is still A PITA.
4. Oil Filter Magnet, haven't you ever heard more can sometimes be better...
a) Internal Pan Magnet is permanent (you cant easily remove it or even clean it)
b) Material caught inside the Oil Filter is removed when renewing Oil Filter, and YES you do get metal inside filter can, I have shown that.
IMO the Oil Pan Magnet is only good when the car is standing and oil has/is settled.
2. Swinging the Oil Pan PLATE back on ONE bolt makes it a lot easier to relocate, rather than completely removing and putting it back, particularly if you only have say 8" of space to work in.
3. Yes, IMO the "Oil Filter Cap" is the ONLY way to remove S2 Oil Filter and preferably access through the LH front Wheel removed.
Having changed my Oil Filter about 8 Times I consider my self an expert, and it is still A PITA.
4. Oil Filter Magnet, haven't you ever heard more can sometimes be better...
a) Internal Pan Magnet is permanent (you cant easily remove it or even clean it)
b) Material caught inside the Oil Filter is removed when renewing Oil Filter, and YES you do get metal inside filter can, I have shown that.
IMO the Oil Pan Magnet is only good when the car is standing and oil has/is settled.
2. Yup, I agree, do this every time. You do have to "pull down" a bit to fully swivel past some of the underbody compnents, but def makes the job easy
3. I will have to give this a shot. I can remove the filter no problem from the under side, but if I can remove and replace then maybe I wont need to jack the entire car up.
4. I saw your thread about this. I will have to snag one of these when i get some extra funds.
02-20-2011, 06:01 PM
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Wait did I hear this correctly? You can access the filter from the wheel well without taking off the blasted metal plate? But I dont have jack stands..
And what is the part # for the cap style oil wrench, as I'm afraid to buy anything for an RX-8 for fear that it wont fit the S2.
And what is the part # for the cap style oil wrench, as I'm afraid to buy anything for an RX-8 for fear that it wont fit the S2.
02-20-2011, 06:25 PM
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1. Air filter Removal is No Different to any other OEM RX-8.
See I had forgotten, must be my "old timers" disease creeping in.
2. Swinging the Oil Pan PLATE back on ONE bolt makes it a lot easier to relocate, rather than completely removing and putting it back, particularly if you only have say 8" of space to work in.
Meh, wasn't my car and didn't want to possibly bend it in any way, so I just dropped it completely. Not that big of a deal.
3. Yes, IMO the "Oil Filter Cap" is the ONLY way to remove S2 Oil Filter and preferably access through the LH front Wheel removed.
Having changed my Oil Filter about 8 Times I consider my self an expert, and it is still A PITA.
Agreed!
4. Oil Filter Magnet, haven't you ever heard more can sometimes be better...
a) Internal Pan Magnet is permanent (you cant easily remove it or even clean it)
b) Material caught inside the Oil Filter is removed when renewing Oil Filter, and YES you do get metal inside filter can, I have shown that.
True that......guess I really didn't think it completely through.I is a retard!
IMO the Oil Pan Magnet is only good when the car is standing and oil has/is settled.
Hmmmm....I suppose so.
See I had forgotten, must be my "old timers" disease creeping in.
2. Swinging the Oil Pan PLATE back on ONE bolt makes it a lot easier to relocate, rather than completely removing and putting it back, particularly if you only have say 8" of space to work in.
Meh, wasn't my car and didn't want to possibly bend it in any way, so I just dropped it completely. Not that big of a deal.
3. Yes, IMO the "Oil Filter Cap" is the ONLY way to remove S2 Oil Filter and preferably access through the LH front Wheel removed.
Having changed my Oil Filter about 8 Times I consider my self an expert, and it is still A PITA.
Agreed!
4. Oil Filter Magnet, haven't you ever heard more can sometimes be better...
a) Internal Pan Magnet is permanent (you cant easily remove it or even clean it)
b) Material caught inside the Oil Filter is removed when renewing Oil Filter, and YES you do get metal inside filter can, I have shown that.
True that......guess I really didn't think it completely through.I is a retard!
IMO the Oil Pan Magnet is only good when the car is standing and oil has/is settled.
Hmmmm....I suppose so.
Thanks for taking the time to respond, I do appreciate it!
Last edited by Mazurfer; 02-20-2011 at 06:28 PM.
02-20-2011, 06:32 PM
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1. Removal process is no different but I wonder if the materials used is different, seems a bit more "tough" which I believe is attributed to thicker plastics? who knows.
2. Yup, I agree, do this every time. You do have to "pull down" a bit to fully swivel past some of the underbody compnents, but def makes the job easy
3. I will have to give this a shot. I can remove the filter no problem from the under side, but if I can remove and replace then maybe I wont need to jack the entire car up.
4. I saw your thread about this. I will have to snag one of these when i get some extra funds.
2. Yup, I agree, do this every time. You do have to "pull down" a bit to fully swivel past some of the underbody compnents, but def makes the job easy
3. I will have to give this a shot. I can remove the filter no problem from the under side, but if I can remove and replace then maybe I wont need to jack the entire car up.
4. I saw your thread about this. I will have to snag one of these when i get some extra funds.
Looks like I need to search on this magnet to the oil filter and read up on it.
02-20-2011, 06:35 PM
#73
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Wait did I hear this correctly? You can access the filter from the wheel well without taking off the blasted metal plate? But I dont have jack stands..
And what is the part # for the cap style oil wrench, as I'm afraid to buy anything for an RX-8 for fear that it wont fit the S2.
And what is the part # for the cap style oil wrench, as I'm afraid to buy anything for an RX-8 for fear that it wont fit the S2.
YOU NEED SMALL HANDS
02-20-2011, 06:37 PM
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Wait did I hear this correctly? You can access the filter from the wheel well without taking off the blasted metal plate? But I dont have jack stands..
And what is the part # for the cap style oil wrench, as I'm afraid to buy anything for an RX-8 for fear that it wont fit the S2.
And what is the part # for the cap style oil wrench, as I'm afraid to buy anything for an RX-8 for fear that it wont fit the S2.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=273&page=2
It seems like it would be a combo of ratchet extensions(length) and possibly a swivel, kind of like the several combo's that makes the plugs easier.......but it looks entirely possible and if Ash says so...........then it's gotta work. I guess you either drop that plate, swing it out of the way, or.........take the wheel off and go through there. Pick your poison.
02-20-2011, 06:39 PM
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See below!
It does look like with a swivel and the right extensions, you could get the ratchet all the way out to the wheel well. Of course you'd have to be careful as there a brake components afoot out there and you would want to slip, but just breaking it loose or giving it that one final 14/ to 1/2 turn, it looks plausible. Either that or yes..............rent someone with small hands!
Last edited by Mazurfer; 02-20-2011 at 06:44 PM.