DIY: Series II 2009 RX-8 Oil Change
05-17-2010, 04:35 AM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hi Ash, I notice Mazda classify the RX in Oz and NZ under "severe operating conditions"....I don't remember it being that bad in Sydney, or the west coast?
The synth/dino debate is for sure dead and buried, I tried both with no issues, just wish I could get the Mazda synth in US, they claim it leaves no carbon or other strange deposits.
The synth/dino debate is for sure dead and buried, I tried both with no issues, just wish I could get the Mazda synth in US, they claim it leaves no carbon or other strange deposits.
As a newbie, I suggest you be careful on what advise you give.
You need to look around a bit more, there are thousands of RX-8 owners and their engine oils, while I personally use Castrol GTX3 15W40 Dino, there are many who use Synthetics with NO Issues at all, and since the 09 RX-8 model Mazda Japan Sell/use a Synthetic Engine Oil.
If you had Coolant seeping into your engines combustion area (I take it that is what occurred), you would have needed an engine re-build?, I can assure you this is not the Type of Oil Related.
Neither is a Foamy, milky dipstick oil type related..
Welcome to the club....
You need to look around a bit more, there are thousands of RX-8 owners and their engine oils, while I personally use Castrol GTX3 15W40 Dino, there are many who use Synthetics with NO Issues at all, and since the 09 RX-8 model Mazda Japan Sell/use a Synthetic Engine Oil.
If you had Coolant seeping into your engines combustion area (I take it that is what occurred), you would have needed an engine re-build?, I can assure you this is not the Type of Oil Related.
Neither is a Foamy, milky dipstick oil type related..
Welcome to the club....
06-20-2010, 02:18 AM
#27
Thanks for the write-up! I wasn't aware of these changes until now. It looks like there is no clearance to fit a larger filter either... hmm.
Question on this pic...
I can't quite tell from this photo... is the new drain valve protected by the shield or does it stick out a little?
Thanks!
Question on this pic...
I can't quite tell from this photo... is the new drain valve protected by the shield or does it stick out a little?
Thanks!
06-22-2010, 09:47 AM
#28
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Don't see adapter
Also, in relation to the pic above: I don't see an adapter being used here between the valve and the oil pan, is it not needed on the 09's as it was in previous models? Thanks.
07-04-2010, 02:20 PM
#29
A couple of thoughts.
First, this is a great write-up! I found the links and photos very helpful.
I just changed the oil for the first time and would like to voice a few of my opinions.
First, I tried one of those drain valves and it is inside the shield, mostly. See the attached photo. When looking from the front of the car you'll see that it is just about flush with the bottom of the shield... yaay for that!
Having said that I didn't keep it on the car for two reasons. I don't think as much oil will drain. The threads look like they stick up in the pan a bit further than the pan threads. It would be simple to fix this with some careful machining on the valve threads. The 2nd reason is that I like having a magnet in the oil pan. The stock drain plug has one and Mazda put it there for a reason. It isn't difficult to remove stock plug anyway, as long as you have an 8mm hex socket.
Note: I'm going to try to modify the valve so I can drain just as well since the magnet is elswhere.
One of the attractions that this valve held for me was that I'd be able to avoid removing the bottom shield every time. Unfortunately the oil filter is located on the front of the motor and is inaccessible without removing the shield.
Second, ramps sure are convienient, but a floor jacks let you drain so much more oil from the car. Since the drain plug is on the front of the motor, if you have it up on ramps (on a level surface), the oil will pool towards the back. After the jack was lowered a lot more oil slowly drizled out of the engine. I tested it while refilling, and it seemed like as much as a full quart was stuck in the back of the pan with the car jacked up (further than ramps, but it makes the point). Keep in mind I didn't empircally gather data by measuring quantities drained and so forth, but there is more oil changed when you do it this way.
Third, I didn't realize just how awesome the Mazda filters are! They remind me of K&N oil filters.
Finally, the suggested oil filter wrench from the above post is the perfect tool for the job! I got a cheap one from Harbor Freight and it fight in the tight location the first time, no muss, no fuss.
I just changed the oil for the first time and would like to voice a few of my opinions.
First, I tried one of those drain valves and it is inside the shield, mostly. See the attached photo. When looking from the front of the car you'll see that it is just about flush with the bottom of the shield... yaay for that!
Having said that I didn't keep it on the car for two reasons. I don't think as much oil will drain. The threads look like they stick up in the pan a bit further than the pan threads. It would be simple to fix this with some careful machining on the valve threads. The 2nd reason is that I like having a magnet in the oil pan. The stock drain plug has one and Mazda put it there for a reason. It isn't difficult to remove stock plug anyway, as long as you have an 8mm hex socket.
Note: I'm going to try to modify the valve so I can drain just as well since the magnet is elswhere.
One of the attractions that this valve held for me was that I'd be able to avoid removing the bottom shield every time. Unfortunately the oil filter is located on the front of the motor and is inaccessible without removing the shield.
Second, ramps sure are convienient, but a floor jacks let you drain so much more oil from the car. Since the drain plug is on the front of the motor, if you have it up on ramps (on a level surface), the oil will pool towards the back. After the jack was lowered a lot more oil slowly drizled out of the engine. I tested it while refilling, and it seemed like as much as a full quart was stuck in the back of the pan with the car jacked up (further than ramps, but it makes the point). Keep in mind I didn't empircally gather data by measuring quantities drained and so forth, but there is more oil changed when you do it this way.
Third, I didn't realize just how awesome the Mazda filters are! They remind me of K&N oil filters.
I used this tool to remove my Harley oil filter. I had to mod it because when I was under the car it kept slipping open to wider opening so I used the wire to prevent it from sliding wider. The other pic is the dents no holes I put in the filter from the tool they do put the 1st filter on damn tight.
Last edited by 3toedSloth; 07-05-2010 at 02:02 PM.
07-04-2010, 04:23 PM
#30
Super Moderator
The 2nd reason is that I like having a magnet in the oil pan. The stock drain plug has one and Mazda put it there for a reason. It isn't difficult to remove stock plug anyway, as long as you have an 8mm hex socket.
There is a Permanent Donut Magnet INSIDE your Sump Oil Pan.
07-05-2010, 11:02 AM
#31
I thought it was at the end of the drain plug... there is a part that sticks up in but I guess that's just to help people find the hole blind.
BTW, where are you getting these awesome parts diagram pictures?
07-05-2010, 01:56 PM
#32
07-11-2010, 04:35 PM
#33
Super Moderator
Warning!!!!!!!!!!!
OK, I am only posting this info as a DO NOT DO IT WARNING
This ONLY applies to Series 2...
I have noticed that one or two guys have said that they "prefer" to leave OFF the Silver Oil Pan GUARD or the Silver Sump Pan Guard for "Convenience" and changing Oil Filter...well I strongly suggest...DO NOT RISK IT...
ALWAYS PUT IT BACK...
WHY... Well here, an S2 owner left his Silver Cover OFF for months and then wondered why he got a cooked (semi) engine, MA came to the party with a replacement, BUT, while driving the guy picked up a small steel rod that was flicked up and went straight though his Oil Pan...it was still wedged into pan when he finally stopped to investigate his warning lamps....he did not even realize he had run over anything...
The oil pans in the Series 2 are a very light, ALWAYS put back the Silver Oil PAN GUARD...that is what it is there for..
Sorry, I know this a NO Brainer for most here, BUT...
This ONLY applies to Series 2...
I have noticed that one or two guys have said that they "prefer" to leave OFF the Silver Oil Pan GUARD or the Silver Sump Pan Guard for "Convenience" and changing Oil Filter...well I strongly suggest...DO NOT RISK IT...
ALWAYS PUT IT BACK...
WHY... Well here, an S2 owner left his Silver Cover OFF for months and then wondered why he got a cooked (semi) engine, MA came to the party with a replacement, BUT, while driving the guy picked up a small steel rod that was flicked up and went straight though his Oil Pan...it was still wedged into pan when he finally stopped to investigate his warning lamps....he did not even realize he had run over anything...
The oil pans in the Series 2 are a very light, ALWAYS put back the Silver Oil PAN GUARD...that is what it is there for..
Sorry, I know this a NO Brainer for most here, BUT...
Last edited by ASH8; 07-11-2010 at 04:37 PM.
07-12-2010, 01:59 AM
#35
Super Moderator
/\..Hey how are you me Ole ******?!!...
07-23-2010, 10:42 PM
#37
Super Moderator
hi Ash, I notice Mazda classify the RX in Oz and NZ under "severe operating conditions"....I don't remember it being that bad in Sydney, or the west coast?
The synth/dino debate is for sure dead and buried, I tried both with no issues, just wish I could get the Mazda synth in US, they claim it leaves no carbon or other strange deposits.
The synth/dino debate is for sure dead and buried, I tried both with no issues, just wish I could get the Mazda synth in US, they claim it leaves no carbon or other strange deposits.
Drive from Adelaide to Darwin (South North) or across the Nullarbor (East West) for Severe Road Conditions...
New Zealand HAVE NO Severe (heat) Conditions, they do not have deserts like OZ or USA.
07-23-2010, 10:48 PM
#38
Super Moderator
07-31-2010, 08:50 PM
#39
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm beginning to believe that for the series-II, Mazda moved the oil filter under the car along with the additional sump guard and special drain bolt just to discourage people from doing their own oil changes, retaining more dealer control over the process. I really resent that.
I think they moved it because the new triangulated strut brace would be in the way of the old one. Just a guess tho.
07-31-2010, 11:28 PM
#40
Super Moderator
Originally Posted by PeteInLongBeach
I'm beginning to believe that for the series-II, Mazda moved the oil filter under the car along with the additional sump guard and special drain bolt just to discourage people from doing their own oil changes, retaining more dealer control over the process. I really resent that.
I'm beginning to believe that for the series-II, Mazda moved the oil filter under the car along with the additional sump guard and special drain bolt just to discourage people from doing their own oil changes, retaining more dealer control over the process. I really resent that.
Along with the all new Oil Pump and Oil Filter (with the higher PSI By Pass Rating), for the first time, ALL the Oil goes directly from the Oil Pump through the Oil Filter First (the Oil Pump and Filter are very close together), where as in all other Rotaries the Oil Filter By Pass was a lower PSI and the Oil Filter located at the Rear and Top of engine will filter Oil After it passes the rear engine Oil By Pass Valve, so in theory some oil could be returned to the Oil Pan without being filtered.
The Series 2 RX-8 does not have this Rear Engine By Pass Valve return.
08-06-2010, 03:45 PM
#42
Super Moderator
/\ Are you serious??
If you are, Engine OIL should be changed when Hot..Not Cold???...think about it..
Explain, What are you Talking about???
Less hast and MORE Details...
If you are, Engine OIL should be changed when Hot..Not Cold???...think about it..
Can I even shut it down, or is that a no no
Less hast and MORE Details...
08-06-2010, 04:12 PM
#44
Super Moderator
As I said I would wait for engine to get HOT..TURN OFF .then drain.
08-06-2010, 04:21 PM
#45
Ok I wouldn't say "hot", more like "warm" or else you will burn the ever loving **** out of your hands when you go to remove the filter and oil drips out. Drive the car on the ramps, wait till the car warms up a bit (till the tach indicators go from 3 to 2 lights), turn off. Wait a bit, go grab a drink. If the car is too hot then its going to REALLY suck going down there and working.
08-07-2010, 06:13 PM
#46
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm almost at 3000 miles now, I'm gonna do the oil at 5000. The hell with it. If I could change the oil in 5 min with the car on the ground then maybe...Its never hot or humid here and I drive all under the Schedule 1 stuff anyway. I've got the 100K warranty!
The following users liked this post:
Lovnliv4Him (05-03-2021)
08-08-2010, 08:40 PM
#49
Registered
I agree. The oil pan guard is easy and doesn't really take much time (use the slotted hole to slip and hold while installing). Compared to the Series1 cars, the oil filter location is a disappointment.
08-08-2010, 09:11 PM
#50
