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Ride height after strut replacement

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Old 05-29-2014, 12:21 PM
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Ride height after strut replacement

I replaced my struts, and the front end sits high now, and there is a pretty big wheel gap. I have 2 questions.

1. The stock monroe replacement struts in the front have a plastic square piece on the end, should I have removed this?

2. I found somewhere else that you are not supposed to tighten the inner A frame ends or bottom shock bolt until you lower the car and push down to settle the suspension. Do I need to jack it back up, loosen these bolts and try to tighten it sitting on the ground?

On an unrelated note, I destroyed the rear tires by not getting it aligned after strut replacement. $500 mistake.

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Old 05-29-2014, 12:26 PM
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Assuming you're talking about the 8 they have shocks not struts.

Did you replace just the shocks or did you do springs as well?

One explanation is that the shocks were shot and caused the car to sag really low, thus by putting on a new set/pair they are at the proper hight. Compare to a stock car and see if there is a difference. And always do alignments when you mess with the suspension. All i got.
Old 05-29-2014, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by blckninja
Assuming you're talking about the 8 they have shocks not struts.

Did you replace just the shocks or did you do springs as well?

One explanation is that the shocks were shot and caused the car to sag really low, thus by putting on a new set/pair they are at the proper hight. Compare to a stock car and see if there is a difference. And always do alignments when you mess with the suspension. All i got.
The RX-8 is equipped with struts all the way around, which is a shock inside a spring. If there is no spring, it's a shock.

I don't have another car to compare, but I have seen other 8's in my area that don'e seem to ride as high as mine. No way to know if it's because they are worn or if they are correct and I'm not.

My local mazda dealer techs seem to have no experience with the rotaries and are of no help.
Old 05-29-2014, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Pretty much. Raise the car, loosen the four 17mm bolts on the upper control arms (two on each side) just a couple turns each, lower the car, then tighten all four 17mm bolts back up. No need to loosen the bottom damper bolt, though.

I usually turn the wheel to more easily access the bolts.
Thanks. I'll bang that out in the morning before I limp 'er to the tire shop for new kicks.
Old 05-30-2014, 02:05 PM
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Maybe a little better.
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Old 05-30-2014, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Did you happen to compress/settle the suspension by pushing on each corner before retightening the a-arm bolts? I probably should have mentioned that.....
I did. Then I had to go to walmart and buy a suction cup dent puller. haha
Old 04-17-2016, 09:07 AM
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Having the same problem

I had the local shop replace the front struts. When I got it back the front end sat high and I took it back. They said they made some adjustment and gave it back to me. It looked the same. This morning, I just loosened the upper A arm and shock bottom bolts (following instruction 8 from this site)
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/14026-sprg-shock.pdf
I even drove the car down the street over a couple of speed bumps with the bolts loosened (primarily because it seems practically useless trying to bounce the suspension by pressing on the fender). I tightened and torqued all bolts. The car looks exactly the same with the front riding about 3/4-1 inch higher than the rear (judged by look at the gap between the tire and wheel well and by measuring from the rim lip to the wheel well).
Any more suggestions?
Old 04-17-2016, 10:07 AM
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The gas pressure inside the struts contributes to ride height. Your fronts were probably sagging if they needed to be replaced. New struts raised the height back to factory height, which admittedly looks a bit high on these cars. You probably need to change the rears also, which in my experience, tend to go before the fronts on 8s. Ideally, you should always change all 4 at the same time.
Old 05-08-2016, 09:06 PM
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I replaced the rear only about 4 months ago, so not sure that the rear is sagging. Is it possible the shop put the wrong shocks on the front? Seems highly unlikely that some other shock would fit the car and it seems from checking various parts warehouses that gen 1 and gen 2 cars take the same shocks, is that true?
Old 05-09-2016, 08:00 AM
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The S2 cars have different rear shocks and springs. Mixing and matching rear S1 and S2 suspension parts could cause what you are seeing.
Old 05-13-2016, 10:13 PM
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I just put on the Bilstein B12 shock kit with Eibach springs, and it RAISED up 2007 RX8 from approx 13.5 inches hub to fender to 14.5 inches all around.

The kit talks about lowering about 1.6 up front and 1 at rears.

The highest spec for sport suspension RX8 is about 15.5.

Last edited by 40w8; 05-13-2016 at 10:15 PM.
Old 05-13-2016, 10:29 PM
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^ I hate to summon Captain Obvious, but 15.5" is the factory ride height for a new suspension. The B12 kit is actually spec'd at 1" to 1.2" front and 1" rear of lowering. If you swap the B12 kit for a healthy OEM suspension, you can expect a ~14.3" ride height in the front and a ~14.5" ride height in the rear. But a ~9 year old suspension is not healthy. The gas charge in RX-8 shocks contributes to ride height. As the car ages, the gas escapes, and the suspension sags. So, what you are seeing is exactly what is to be expected. Installing the B12 kit will raise your car back to where it should be. Your car is sitting at the right height as specified by the kit. In any case, you should be seeing an improvement in performance that should negate any superficial cosmetic compromise.

.

Last edited by Steve Dallas; 05-13-2016 at 10:45 PM.
Old 05-14-2016, 09:27 AM
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Yes, your are Captain Obvious.

Maybe I wasn't clear, but I knew it would RAISE suspension, and I wanted it to.

It was about 14 front and 13.5 rear from day one.

I've tracked it maybe 15 times, and it was firm as hell stock, but seemed to be hitting bump stops on a severe bump (not any found on track).

It still fells about the same except it will flex some on uneven pavement.

Is the old stuff good for anything or just yard art?
Old 05-14-2016, 09:08 PM
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^ I thought you were suggesting it was a problem and looking for answers. That is the norm around here.

The rear shocks tend to go first on these cars, so sagging in the rear is very common. [Trying very hard not to go on unrelated tangent...]

A lot of people recommend trimming the bump stops when you lower the car with the intention of tracking it. I think it is even in Racing Beat's installation instructions for most of their shocks. Yep. It is. Other people buy Fat Cat's boutique bump stops, but they are expensive for what they are.

Sorry about the misunderstanding.
Old 05-15-2016, 12:38 AM
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Yeah, for years everyone was wanting to lower for looks.

Hell, I( just want RX8 to feel right at high speed.

It's hard to ruin looks unless people put **** designs on it.

I was just telling people that LOWERING Springs might actually raise where it needs to be.

By the way, I live in Midland and need a track day from time to time.

I like Cresson MSR 1.7, but it's hard to tget on without Apex school or BMWCCA.

I don't need to have my hand held, just want to drive at limit for 20 minutes a run.

Alos, I noticed you have the right idea on brakes. I like the stock pads, and still have some after about 15 track days, and 33k miles. Where to get stock paqds, and what are the factory numbers?
Old 05-15-2016, 07:34 AM
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I go to MSR in Cresson about 15 times per year. Check out SCCA's Track Night in America. It is easy to get in, and the events are managed pretty well. Otherwise, I sucked it up and went through the program with Apex and made it into the advanced run group.

The OEM brake pads are remarkably good on this car. I tracked them as a novice driver and part of the time as an intermediate driver, and they served me very well. The part numbers are F1Y43328Z (front) and F1Y02648Z (rear). There are several dealers that have their parts departments online and sell parts at a discount. Jim Ellis, Rosenthal, Independence, and bestmazdaparts.com all come to mind.
Old 05-15-2016, 11:29 AM
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Steve Dallas, thanks for the tips.

I didn't know about the afternoon runs on the 1.7.

I bought Rx8 in May 07, and found out about HPDE the following spring.

Wasn't room to sign up that day, but I signed up under Lambo Days April 5, 2008.

I went out with there requisite hand holder, and she was a really big gurl tjhat didn't like that I wasn't going fast enough. She has 5this thing about late braking. Yeah, that's a good idea, but we don't pass in the corners.


I know how to drive the **** out of a car since I won TTOD in a SCCA AutoX in March 1978 in my RX3.

I got another hand holder, and he saID i NAILED several of the corners.

By last run he didn't show up, and I got to solo, and let Lambo drives by every 15 seconds.

I was at Cresson MSR 1.3 with my wifes BMW X1 s28i with Edge Addicts last weekend.

It's hard to let people by, and I was passing some fast cars (Vette) with slow driver.

I'm pretty sure my X1 is faster than my RX8 because 258 toque at 1250rpm -4800, but what gets me is that I wouldn't even want to drive either of those cars in Advanced.

People show up with super cars, and/or racing slicks which I won't do.

I like a good streetable car, and to be able to learn it and drive to the limit once or twice ayear.

Last edited by 40w8; 05-15-2016 at 11:32 AM.
Old 05-15-2016, 11:34 AM
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Another fun track with super attitude is HPR east of Denver.

Maybe pot does them good because they said just go out when you want, and don't race into the corners.
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