jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I just painted my 05 GT's caliper with a G2 kit and took it out for a spin to make sure I did not get any paint on the pads or anything. I pounced on the brakes a few times to test them out (not like screeching or anything, just a little firmer than normal) and noticed something.

When I press the brake pedal firmly, once I get the pedal down about half way, it gets much easier to press. It seems like the car is still braking, because I obviously come to a stop, but it doesnt feel as "tight" i guess is the word, as it does for the first half push of the pedal.

Is this a characteristic of our ABS system? This is actually one of the first cars I've had with ABS so I didnt know if maybe that's just how this car acts. I have winter tires on right now and was on dry pavement.

Just wanted to make sure this is no indication of a problem, or if it is, I'll need to get it serviced quickly.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

That doesn't sound like anything I've felt in mine. Should be a constant feel through the complete pedal travel. Try bleeding the fluid?

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I'll look for a DIY.

Unoriginalusername

X2 sounds like a bubble in the lines. Bleed and retry

Unoriginalusername

Lots of videos online to help out

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Alright thanks for the advice guys I will do that this weekend. I read that in the winter theres a tendancy for moisture/air to get into the lines.

Quick question:

https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...ushing-210519/

looks like a good DIY as well as others I have seen but one thing confuses me. It says that once you top off the master cylinder reservoir you should leave the cap off while you go to the furthest caliper. Is that correct? It just seemed strange because thought that point was that when you start bleeding you want no air able to get into any line.

^FYI will be first time doing brake servicing so dont make fun.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Yep that's correct. What you don't want is a bubble of air, so as you drain some fluid through the caliper, make sure there's always plenty in the reservoir to keep feeding the system. If you drain too much and there is no more fluid in the reservoir, you'll be draining out the bottom and taking air in through the top.. not what you want. So keep that reservoir full.

Unoriginalusername

My first time I lost brakes during my test drive as I had some air in the line. Take your time, double check your work and don't be afraid to ask questions

bse50

What happens if you put a straw in a glass full of fluid, put a thumb to "cap" it and raise it? No fluid comes out. Once you take the thumb off of it the fluid drains.
The same principle applies to draining car fluids. It's much more effective with the caps open

The last time I lost my brakes it was the brake master cylinder... now that's not as fun as having moiture in the circuit

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Yeah thats definitely the scary part. Brakes are a big safety hazard if they are not working properly. That's the main reason I'm hesitant on doing it myself, especially since my daughter rides in the car some days.

But I have to man-up and learn some day right? Plus, with all the horror stories of shops leaving tools and **** in your bay and messing crap up, I'd rather get confident with me doing the job and know exactly what I did and how I did it. I plan on taking an automotive class eventually but for now online DIYs are my guide, and to be honest half of them are probably better then the classes I could take.

Anyways, I have a local mechanic who is pretty good who could always help me out in a pinch.

I'm going to do lots of test drives. Is there a recommended test sequence once you have bleed/swapped fluids? IE, take a drive, stomp 3 times, lightly brake 3 times, etc.

Thanks for the info!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You need help to do it yourself...someone to push on the pedal and do exactly what you tell them

Usually a buddy is better then the Wife for that

It will be obviuos if they work correctly after...no soft pedal

Careful with the bleeders if you have never done it before....they break a lot easier than you might think...especially if they are a bit corroded

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

For most instances with corroded things, I use a quick spray of WD-40. Good or bad? High possibility of a touch of it getting into the lines and hurting things?


Also, the beginning of the DIY I posted shows that there is a way to do this alone. It looks like maybe it is more efficient to do the 2-man process though.

Also, brake fluid pretty universal as long as it is the correct type? DOT3 or DOT4?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

WD40 or penetrating oil is OK...it won't get in the system from the outside

It is way easier to do a 2 man bleed than the loop method. The only one man things that work really well are a pressure bleeder...or speedbleeders..and both cost money you don't need to spend unless you do it a lot

either DOT3, 4 or 5.1 are OK for our systems..just don't use DOT5(silicone)

If your car is more than 3 years old...you should replace the fluid...just bleed a lot through the system until it comes out clean (use about 2pints) . Make sure you fill the master cylinder reservoir lots though...if it sucks in air you are in for a PIA to get it all out of the ABS unit and the master cylinder

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Alright, thanks for the great info guys. I'll give it a shot this weekend. If advanced auto has a reasonably priced set I may just replace the brake lines. I know that they are old.

AAP is putting aside a 8mm bleed wrench, 10mm crescent wrench, and the fuel line for me.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Oh snap! and I Completely forgot to ask this!

I ran into the weirdest thing after painting my calipers.

I had my car up on jackstands. I am putting the tires/wheels back on 1by1 and lowering the car down. E-Brake was on from when I was jacking the car up so obviously my rear tires will not spin.

I put the rear tires/wheels on and lower the back end down. It's all fine.

I cant remember if I noticed the issue before or after I lowered the back end down but this is what happened.

Car is in neutral, e-brake on.

My right front tire spins but my left front tire wont!! What is up with that??

I really didnt know what to make of that.

I lowered the car down and proceeded to drive it and test out the brakes. It seemed to work fine. This was about 4 days ago. I noticed the brake issue yesterday. I believe they are probably unrelated. I remember someone saying our car has an ABS lock which makes the clunk as we start rolling and wondered if that is the reason my front-left tire wouldnt spin.

Any opinions/ideas?