Duralast Break Pads don't fit o_o
#1
Duralast Break Pads don't fit o_o
Hi there! I just purchased some el cheapo break pads from auto zone and they appear to be too thick as I can't get the caliper back on them. Does this mean auto zone gave me the wrong pads, perhaps intended for a different vehicle? The pads that are on there now seem to have about 3/4 to 1/2 the life of the new pads. I was only replacing them because I heard squealing so I assumed the needed replaced.
#2
Registered
iTrader: (15)
Hi there! I just purchased some el cheapo break pads from auto zone and they appear to be too thick as I can't get the caliper back on them. Does this mean auto zone gave me the wrong pads, perhaps intended for a different vehicle? The pads that are on there now seem to have about 3/4 to 1/2 the life of the new pads. I was only replacing them because I heard squealing so I assumed the needed replaced.
#4
#5
i came across this video for retracting the caliper piston,
.
is bleeding the fluid necessary for our car? do the steps outlined in the video apply to the rx8? seems simple enough.
edit: came across this thread for replacing the rear pads, https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...e-pads-172382/. do the steps regarding the caliper and the toolkit apply to the front brakes as well?
is bleeding the fluid necessary for our car? do the steps outlined in the video apply to the rx8? seems simple enough.
edit: came across this thread for replacing the rear pads, https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...e-pads-172382/. do the steps regarding the caliper and the toolkit apply to the front brakes as well?
Last edited by cnstarz; 03-18-2013 at 02:33 PM.
#6
Mr. Örange
On the fronts, your goal is to push the caliper back in. Find the piece that fits over or just under the face of the caliper and then twist the handle. It will go back in. If you go all the way and then you can't remove the tool, use a wrench on the bolt on the back of the tool to loosen it.
On the rears, find the fitting with the two bumps that will fit into the slots of the face of the caliper. On the rears, you have to twist the caliper to retract it. A quick tip: If you have a dental pick or something like that, CAREFULLY put the point of the pick between the boot and caliper and squirt a tiny bit of liquid wrench between the boot and the caliper and work it around before you twist, that way you don't stretch and rip the boot.
Bleeding isn't necessary if you haven't opened any of the brake lines, though it's always a good idea to get fresh fluid in the system (bleed it after you are done changing pads.) Also as you are pushing the calipers back in especially on the last caliper, check your brake fluid reservoir to see if you are going to push any out the top while you are pushing in the calipers.
Good luck
On the rears, find the fitting with the two bumps that will fit into the slots of the face of the caliper. On the rears, you have to twist the caliper to retract it. A quick tip: If you have a dental pick or something like that, CAREFULLY put the point of the pick between the boot and caliper and squirt a tiny bit of liquid wrench between the boot and the caliper and work it around before you twist, that way you don't stretch and rip the boot.
Bleeding isn't necessary if you haven't opened any of the brake lines, though it's always a good idea to get fresh fluid in the system (bleed it after you are done changing pads.) Also as you are pushing the calipers back in especially on the last caliper, check your brake fluid reservoir to see if you are going to push any out the top while you are pushing in the calipers.
Good luck
Last edited by TANKERG; 03-18-2013 at 04:40 PM.
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