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Originally posted by mikeb nice
what was the cost if you dont mind.
Thanks.
I got "special consideration" for demoing their prototype.
I'd rather not mention prices and risk incurring the wrath of Elara the Mod. Their web site (Renesis Racing) has more info...
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I know a shop in anaheim and they said they would drill my stock ones for 300.
All four? That sounds pretty decent. Just be sure they know what they're doing. Paul, who did mine, pointed out to me that it's important to design the drill pattern carefully to avoid weakening the ribs between the rotor plates.
Originally posted by foodiedave All four? That sounds pretty decent. Just be sure they know what they're doing. Paul, who did mine, pointed out to me that it's important to design the drill pattern carefully to avoid weakening the ribs between the rotor plates.
wait, what?? these are just your stock rotors with holes drilled and slots cut into them?? :o hmm... i dunno about that, unless all you cared about was getting the look.
wait, what?? these are just your stock rotors with holes drilled and slots cut into them?? :o hmm... i dunno about that, unless all you cared about was getting the look.
I'm with wakeech on this one. I'll wait for production ribbed and drilled rotors to be available. By that time my originals should need replacing :D
Originally posted by foodiedave Looks like I'm the first kid on my block with drilled & slotted brake rotors for my sweet little 8!
Was there a problem with the OEM rotors that you're trying to fix by 'upgrading'? All the reviews seem to indicate that the RX-8 brakes are among the strongest on the market, with no fade....
Re drilling stock rotors - it's pretty much guaranteed that if you drive those hard, like on a track, that you'll get cracks and premature failure in them. Even cast hole rotors can have problems with the stress concentrations and heat cycling - drilled rotors are a recipe for disaster.
Regards,
Gordon
__________________
Life is too short to drive boring cars!
___________________________________ 2004 Ti Gray RX-8 - Canadian GT, 6 speed, no moonroof, delivered July 22, 2003 1996 Miata leather package, soon to be faster than the RX-8...
2002 Audi allroad wagon - 2.7 twin turbo, 6 speed manual trans
Was there a problem with the OEM rotors that you're trying to fix by 'upgrading'?
No, actually, I got them partly as a demo favor for the guy who manufactures them, and partly because I figured the extra cooling effect (however great) couldn't hurt.
And yes, they look kinda cool, too.
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Re drilling stock rotors - it's pretty much guaranteed that if you drive those hard, like on a track, that you'll get cracks and premature failure in them.
I have no plans to drive them hard on a track, and the drill pattern has been carefully designed to avoid hitting any of the ribs between the rotor plates (as I mentioned above).
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Even cast hole rotors can have problems with the stress concentrations and heat cycling - drilled rotors are a recipe for disaster.
Whoa, might want to put the brakes on that hyperbole before it spins outta control.
Virtually every drilled and slotted "sport" rotor (aka street performance rotor) is based on a stock production brake rotor, mostly aftermarket, and in this particular application since there are no aftermarket replacement rotors yet available, are based on stock Mazda OEM pieces.
Every rotor you see for sale on Ebay or elsewhere is based on an original replacement or aftermarket replacement.
Yes, these rotors are very good looking, but they are absolutely functional as well. Everyone knows the theory behind drilling and slotting brake rotors. These rotors are carefully designed and machined to retain full rotor integrity while providing the best features of drilling and slotting. This was done by carefully machining the holes such that they do not penetrate the cooling vanes and properly chamfering them to prevent cracking.
Originally posted by renesis_racing Everyone knows the theory behind drilling and slotting brake rotors.
ah, then i suppose you must as well. enlighten us ingorami who don't... is it soley to decrease the conductive mass of the rotor to increase the impact of heat cycling stress, or also to decrease the area of contact between rotor and pad??
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Originally posted by renesis_racing These rotors are carefully designed and machined to retain full rotor integrity while providing the best features of drilling and slotting. This was done by carefully machining the holes such that they do not penetrate the cooling vanes and properly chamfering them to prevent cracking.
regardless of your marketting rhetoric here, the truth is that cutting or else modifying a CAST metal piece such as these brake rotors wreaks havoc with the naturally formed atomic matrix, hence weakening it. despite your obvious skil and thought in doing so, drilling cast brake rotors has been proven to be counter productive in seeking high-performance.
that aside, they do look cool as hell, but are like the "real deal" only in look. sorry to be so cinical, but i'm tired of people (not necessarily you) trying to pass off rice as high performance
i'll let u guys in on a secret... I have an entire real big brake kit coming in - the 1st one in the states to get them actually . I'll post pics after its installed.
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