thewatcher101

Can the LCA bushing be removed without the complete removal of the LCA?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

No.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Not easily anyway

thewatcher101

So there is a possibility, or is it just easier just to take it out?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Anything is possible, depending on your skill level and determination. But why would you not want to remove it to do it right?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Considering removing them is about a 15 min job...why would you bother

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Especially since we can only put delrin bushings in the UCA, not the LCA

thewatcher101

What is the best way to get the LCA bushing out, would a bearing press kit be enough to remove it. Or do I need a shop press.

GK1707

iTrader: (10)

The FSM says to cut them. I'd prob torch em tho.

thewatcher101

Are the bushing completely rubber or they they have a metal outer sleeve.


My shop wants only 200 bux for labor to do it.........so tempting.

thewatcher101

I just got it and was wondering if anyone can give me some tips or a step by step to make my life easier.

The bushing is metal on the outside, does it still require lube?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

carefully remove the rubber bushing and sleeve from LCA

press the new one in...you don't want it to be loose ( so no lube )...or it will rotate and screw up your alignment. I had to TIG weld the big side to the control arm as it would turn when I banged off the curbs at the track. For more "normal" usage it likely isn't an issue

Then put in the bearing and the retaining side with the screws and you should be good

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Heating/torching aluminum is a good way of making it susceptible to bending and deformation under load because you will remove the temper. The bushings should be pressed out, but the arm also has to be supported properly to not damage it in the process ...

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You shouldn't torch it......when I did mine I had already cut the front part of the bushing off as it had seized on the bolt. I pressed out the center part and then sliced the outer metal sleeve carefully part way through and pressed it out. As I remember it took an hour a side...in a shop with air tools, an air chisel and die grinders...a vise and a press. Not sure doing it at home would be a fun job

It isn't simple...and you need to be patient. If you screw it up it get expensive really quick

thewatcher101

The shop it is then, thank you for that advice. I think I will only do one side since only my driver side not getting the angle it needs. My car is track too and since this part doesn't hold onto it's alignment as well as stock bushing. I would like to keep it as stock as possible. For the price he is asking, it would be totally worth it. It does not sound fun.

Wouldn't welding the bushing in place, remove any ability to adjust it?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You don't really want to adjust the camber with that bushing...you put it in...and then use the camber adjuster that the car has stock. Think of this as an offset bushing...not as an adjuster.

thewatcher101

Does it matter where the bushing is rotated during welding?

LOL....yes.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't weld it unless you are having issues with it moving.....it isn't supposed to be welded...it is just the only way I could keep mine from moving on hard track abuse

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Srsly?





.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Which part ☺?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

The part where you snuck in while I was replying to the OP ...

Tack welding it makes perfect sense, butnot researching, or acquiring an understanding, or not reading the instructions for modifications before you go there, not so much



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