will not idle after warmed up, 90% of the time
10-12-2009, 09:08 AM
#1
will not idle after warmed up, 90% of the time
i start the car up. and its fine. i drive down the block, its fine. i drive several blocks, and its not fine. i checked for vacuum leaks and found one, vfad nipple cap was busted. i gloriously took it for a drive and..... nothing had changed.... 
my coils are maybe a year old. 20k miles? roughly. spark plugs too i believe. i do not have the money for new coils and spark plugs right now. so hopefully its not that. but i really cant think of anything else. the only thing is that i dont really feel any loss of power. it runs fine. strong. when it runs...
when i come to a stop it will dip to 500rpm, and then all the lights come on and it dies. sometimes it struggles, and occasionally goes back to 1000rpm. if this happens, more often than not it goes back down to 500rpm and then dies. if i hold the the throttle at 2000rpm or 1500rpm, the car will stay on just fine.
im at a loss and its my daily driver. please help.
my coils are maybe a year old. 20k miles? roughly. spark plugs too i believe. i do not have the money for new coils and spark plugs right now. so hopefully its not that. but i really cant think of anything else. the only thing is that i dont really feel any loss of power. it runs fine. strong. when it runs...
when i come to a stop it will dip to 500rpm, and then all the lights come on and it dies. sometimes it struggles, and occasionally goes back to 1000rpm. if this happens, more often than not it goes back down to 500rpm and then dies. if i hold the the throttle at 2000rpm or 1500rpm, the car will stay on just fine.
im at a loss and its my daily driver. please help.
Last edited by kersh4w; 10-12-2009 at 09:12 AM.
10-12-2009, 09:17 AM
#2
The RX-8 is missed
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so you're still getting battery power when it "dies"? i just had this issue - my intake tube was off - the clamp was loose and the tube fell out and downward a bit, so it wasn't getting any air at idle, or not enough air at least. i would die at idle unless i kept my foot on the gas and kept it at about 2k rpms or higher. like you said, driving it around was no problem, just idle.
check here, i had a thread where a couple other ideas were thrown out (i.e. neutral issue).
check here, i had a thread where a couple other ideas were thrown out (i.e. neutral issue).
10-12-2009, 09:26 AM
#4
Just dealt with this again myself... culprit was a dirty filthy SSV in the lower intake manifold.
Car runs fine until its warmed up, then the valve struggle to open/close itself because of oil junk that has been baked on from oil getting into your intake. This valve not function causes the engine to stall.
Do you have any oil in your intake?
Car runs fine until its warmed up, then the valve struggle to open/close itself because of oil junk that has been baked on from oil getting into your intake. This valve not function causes the engine to stall.
Do you have any oil in your intake?
10-12-2009, 04:16 PM
#6
Here is the thread...
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...light=stalling
And I don't have any good pics, but there is a video (although in french) on you tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPlrszbTyNc
The SSV valve is in the lower intake manifold and is a valve controled by the vaccum system. You can make sure the valve moves freely by pushing the tab on the right side of the valve. You'll see how the valve works and should remain in the closed position if not actuated.
I realize this doesn't help much, I'll see if I can find anything else.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...light=stalling
And I don't have any good pics, but there is a video (although in french) on you tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPlrszbTyNc
The SSV valve is in the lower intake manifold and is a valve controled by the vaccum system. You can make sure the valve moves freely by pushing the tab on the right side of the valve. You'll see how the valve works and should remain in the closed position if not actuated.
I realize this doesn't help much, I'll see if I can find anything else.
10-12-2009, 06:23 PM
#9
sounds like the motor is toast... exact same situation I had with mine. basically the compression is too low and when the motor warms up it wont stay on. what kind of warranty do you still have? what kind of millage do you have? most of all, do you have proof of maintanance?
10-12-2009, 06:40 PM
#10
i dont have proof of maintenance all the time. and uh.. im pretty sure mazda knows i drag race. i once came in for an oil change with numbers on my car and the interior stripped. haha... -_- do they put notes in the system about things like that? if they do.. haha...
i just hit 57k miles. i cleaned the MAF the other day with carb cleaner. how do i check the throttle body? pull the intake and then what?
edit: also, if it were compression, wouldnt i have loss of power? i hit the strip the other day (and sucked terribly.) i ran 2.35 second 60 foot, 14.9 seconds, and trapped 93.5mph. or there abouts. thats still above 180whp.
i just hit 57k miles. i cleaned the MAF the other day with carb cleaner. how do i check the throttle body? pull the intake and then what?
edit: also, if it were compression, wouldnt i have loss of power? i hit the strip the other day (and sucked terribly.) i ran 2.35 second 60 foot, 14.9 seconds, and trapped 93.5mph. or there abouts. thats still above 180whp.
Last edited by kersh4w; 10-12-2009 at 06:48 PM.
10-12-2009, 06:54 PM
#11
basically if you pull the intake tube off then you can feel for oil.
Who knows if they take notes about how your car is when you go in. But if you can prove that you change oil regularly and all that jive then I dont see why they wouldnt take car of your motor for you
Who knows if they take notes about how your car is when you go in. But if you can prove that you change oil regularly and all that jive then I dont see why they wouldnt take car of your motor for you
Last edited by Chris; 10-12-2009 at 06:58 PM.
10-12-2009, 07:17 PM
#12
If the TB wasn't working properly it should throw a CEL... ( should 
)
The idle control for the PCM is done by opening/closing the throttle plate.....
If you have access to another TB...try it in and see if it works..there have been a few failures of the idle control mechanism
)The idle control for the PCM is done by opening/closing the throttle plate.....
If you have access to another TB...try it in and see if it works..there have been a few failures of the idle control mechanism
10-12-2009, 08:25 PM
#13
If the TB wasn't working properly it should throw a CEL... ( should )
The idle control for the PCM is done by opening/closing the throttle plate.....
If you have access to another TB...try it in and see if it works..there have been a few failures of the idle control mechanism
)The idle control for the PCM is done by opening/closing the throttle plate.....
If you have access to another TB...try it in and see if it works..there have been a few failures of the idle control mechanism
happened to me, its about to die, no CEL, lucky caught the problem before my b2b warranty expires. (its a 500-600 bux part!)
I think only Mazda has the right software(WDS) to access the information. I could be wrong tho.
10-14-2009, 11:55 AM
#15
i just want to say that this is resolved. i have no idea, but finally, yesterday afternoon the car started idling fine. it shut off twice on the way home from class, but then after that... it was fine.
do you think changing the intake (back to stock) and removing the silencers (they are just 2.5" ID flanges) from the exhaust would seriously affect the long term fuel trims at idle?
do you think changing the intake (back to stock) and removing the silencers (they are just 2.5" ID flanges) from the exhaust would seriously affect the long term fuel trims at idle?
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