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These are the spark plugs that were new as of 2 weeks ago when I had the new starter kit installed. They replace the other leading plugs w/ 6's, a bit hot for a turbo setup. Anyway, I instsalled 2 new Denso Iridium leading plugs today. Just check out these plugs after 2 weeks of work in that good ol cumbustion chamber! (Sry, the pics will probably be pretty big) I hope that the Densos last longer for how expensive they are. But, I wonder, if my car is sumwhat flooded, even though the densos are much colder, I feel that I may risk fouling them soon as well.
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Greddy Turbo, Profec B Boost Controller, Innovate Wideband, Defi Boost Gauge, Custom grooved 3mm apex seals, ACT Heavy Duty Clutch and Prolite Flywheel, Denso Iridium Spark Plugs, Greddy Oil Pan, Oil Catch Can, Greddy Type R BOV, B&B Exhaust, RP Short Shifter and Tein S Tech Springs, and a crappy attempt at painting rims black.
Sorry I actually thought the plugs were with black heads stock, hehe.... I feel so dumb now. I don't know if this is related but should we be worried about the insulators flaking off into the combustion chambers from stock plugs?
I think that's definitely a concern, and any concern is a serious issue w/ this "glass engine".
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Greddy Turbo, Profec B Boost Controller, Innovate Wideband, Defi Boost Gauge, Custom grooved 3mm apex seals, ACT Heavy Duty Clutch and Prolite Flywheel, Denso Iridium Spark Plugs, Greddy Oil Pan, Oil Catch Can, Greddy Type R BOV, B&B Exhaust, RP Short Shifter and Tein S Tech Springs, and a crappy attempt at painting rims black.
Yea sry about that...it's a crappy camera. Anyway,the first one isn't too blury. Point is, it's enough to see the plugs turned black.
Black on the metalic parts is of little concern, other than indicating a SOMEWHAT rich air-fuel mixture. The center ceramic insulator is your indicator of efficient burning of the air-fuel mixture. [The area highlighted in red in the attached image is the area I'm referring to.] Look for a tan to brown color on the insulator which indicates a good burn of the mixture. If the center insulators are black on all plugs (doesn't look like that in the pictures) the air-fuel mixture is TOO rich overall. If only one plug has a black insulator, there is a problem with comustion process in that rotor.
Your pics are quite fuzzy so I can't tell much about the center insulator color. They seem to be lighter than the black metallic components, but the insulator on one of the plugs looks very black.
Your'e correct about one appearing darker. One is definitely darker. Not black like the metallic parts that u noted, but still, my concern now is that one is evidently darker than the other. I was previously getting flashing CEL's over 5500 rpm. Those are when the P2 injectors come in. I wonder if that rotor was misfireing causing that CEL to flash, and resulting in the blacker insulator of the one of the plugs. I drove tonight for about 45 mins and several times was over 5500 rpms to redline and had no flashing CELs. I believe the new Densos are the fix, or at least appear to be. I will check those plugs 1k miles from now or so and see if I can notice a difference as depicted in these 2 plugs. Thanks for the info man, that is sum serious stuff potentially!
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Greddy Turbo, Profec B Boost Controller, Innovate Wideband, Defi Boost Gauge, Custom grooved 3mm apex seals, ACT Heavy Duty Clutch and Prolite Flywheel, Denso Iridium Spark Plugs, Greddy Oil Pan, Oil Catch Can, Greddy Type R BOV, B&B Exhaust, RP Short Shifter and Tein S Tech Springs, and a crappy attempt at painting rims black.
Black on the metalic parts is of little concern, other than indicating a SOMEWHAT rich air-fuel mixture. The center ceramic insulator is your indicator of efficient burning of the air-fuel mixture. [The area highlighted in red in the attached image is the area I'm referring to.] Look for a tan to brown color on the insulator which indicates a good burn of the mixture. If the center insulators are black on all plugs (doesn't look like that in the pictures) the air-fuel mixture is TOO rich overall. If only one plug has a black insulator, there is a problem with comustion process in that rotor.
Your pics are quite fuzzy so I can't tell much about the center insulator color. They seem to be lighter than the black metallic components, but the insulator on one of the plugs looks very black.
I can actually see the 1st one.
The center looks tan but the tip could be tanner. Like he said the metal is not the problem but is an indicator of running rich.
You can have a perfect mixture and have the plugs in that condition.
For example: you can pull the plugs at 9000 RPM or any other range on a motor cycle and have them be perfect tan.
Then when something goes wrong like a stuck choke or a poor setting at idle you can pull the plugs and they will look like yours.
Unfortunately this task is harder to do in a car. More time and hot engine.
But you can still drive a long distance at 8000 RPM and immediate turn off the ignition, pull over the car and check the plugs.
Your plugs look like its too rich at idle / low end.
The 2nd photo shows the other plug being richer.
Still it's hard to tell in the photos. The whole range of tune may be a little rich.
Like I said we don't know your driving conditions for two weeks or how you operated the car before you pulled the plugs.
Why don't you let the car idle for 10 minutes and pull the plugs.
You will see pig rich and power shy rotory wankel.
Unfortunately this task is harder to do in a car. More time and hot engine. But you can still drive a long distance at 8000 RPM and immediate turn off the ignition, pull over the car and check the plugs.
Lol. Boy, does that bring back memories of my dirt bike days trying to get the right A/F mixture. Scream down th highway for a few miles, cut the engine, pull the plug and check the color. Change the carb needle valve accordingly, scream down the road and do it again. Of course that was a two-stroke engine, but the principle is the same with any internal combustion engine. Just quite a bit more difficult, as you say, with a car.
Well, I am also not to concerned w/ the blackening for now. My idle afr is lean if anything, 15-16. Under boost the afr is between 10-11, rarely going as high as 12 and evenon 2 occassions dipping as rich as in the 9's. I'm not concerned yet b/c those leading plugs were 6's. A little warm for a turbo in my opinion since leading plugs in a rotary take 75% of the heat. Figure a rotary alrdy has a problem w/ heat, add a turbo and that problem multiplies exponentially. But, like I said before, if I notice a problem w/ the super cool densos down the road, then we're looking at sumthing.
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Greddy Turbo, Profec B Boost Controller, Innovate Wideband, Defi Boost Gauge, Custom grooved 3mm apex seals, ACT Heavy Duty Clutch and Prolite Flywheel, Denso Iridium Spark Plugs, Greddy Oil Pan, Oil Catch Can, Greddy Type R BOV, B&B Exhaust, RP Short Shifter and Tein S Tech Springs, and a crappy attempt at painting rims black.
Last edited by OfficerFarva; 05-12-2006 at 10:31 AM.
Lol. Boy, does that bring back memories of my dirt bike days trying to get the right A/F mixture. Scream down th highway for a few miles, cut the engine, pull the plug and check the color. Change the carb needle valve accordingly, scream down the road and do it again. Of course that was a two-stroke engine, but the principle is the same with any internal combustion engine. Just quite a bit more difficult, as you say, with a car.
Ah memories...Try it with a 4-carb mid-engine 8-cyl car...I still feel for you. Damn, I like Fuel Injection (most of the time).
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