Sudden engine problem
10-04-2013, 10:05 AM
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Sudden engine problem
i just had a similar problem and wondering, if the engine did blow wouldn't there have been some kind of issue beforehand, like loss of power or noise or something?
Mod edit: Moved from https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...moving-248356/
Lol wow ok thanks for my own thread! =P
Please wait for responding until I have typed out my situation. Thanks!
Ok I am going to be as detailed as possible to get the best insight as possible.
To start off, I have had no problems with my 8 at all this far. It cranks up great, idles smooth, has no problem accelerating etc. Just an awesome car being awesome. Well I have let it sit a couple of weeks at a time lately because I commute to work in another vehicle. The day before yesterday, I decided to drive my 8 to work and back since an issue with the clutch pedal was fixed. I drove to and from work that day with no problems, a total of 80 miles round trip. I drove it to work yesterday morning with no problems as well. It was yesterday afternoon when my car let me down!
I cranked it up and let it idle for a few minutes before I proceeded to head home. It was not backfiring, idling crazy, or doing anything out of the ordinary. I backed up, stopped at the light and prepared to turn right. The light turns green, and I turn, shifting from 1st to 2nd and attempted to accelerate. It doesn't seem to want to go but before I can even think on that fact, I hear a sudden noise and I can hear the engine starting to die and it sounds like something had fallen off and was scraping the ground or something. I managed to coast into a parking lot and noticed the battery light had popped on. I reach up to turn the car off, but it was already off. All my accessories worked. My radio was still playing etc. All power options still worked. I tried to crank her back up, but as she tried, it made a metal screeching noise similar to a bad started. it would't start. I tried two more times but nothing. I checked my battery connections (which I doubted was messed up since I could still use everything) but to no avail, everything seemed fine. I checked a couple of fuses but they all looked fine as well.
I doubted it in my mind but the next thing I tried was to deflood the engine, even though I knew it shouldn't have just shut off on me while driving if it was flooded. I took the two fuel pump fuses out and following a video, mashed the gas pedal and tried to crank it for 5 seconds. Then I waited for 5 seconds and tried again. Now suddenly it won't even try to crank! It just makes on small click and all my accessories will still work but it won't attempt to crank at all.
We took the plugs out, which were all dry except one was slightly wet, cleaned them even though they didn't look bad at all. It still won't attempt to crank. We tried to jump it thinking the battery could have died for some reason...but nothing again.
Then we tried to push start it but that didn't work either. I had it towed to my house.
I don’t think I left anything out. Thanks!
new edit
I forgot to mention when I was deflooding, it backfired once really loudly
EDIT 10/4/13: I checked my engine light and I do have a new code. It's the code P2004, for an intake valve.
Mod edit: Moved from https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...moving-248356/
Lol wow ok thanks for my own thread! =P
Please wait for responding until I have typed out my situation. Thanks!
Ok I am going to be as detailed as possible to get the best insight as possible.
To start off, I have had no problems with my 8 at all this far. It cranks up great, idles smooth, has no problem accelerating etc. Just an awesome car being awesome. Well I have let it sit a couple of weeks at a time lately because I commute to work in another vehicle. The day before yesterday, I decided to drive my 8 to work and back since an issue with the clutch pedal was fixed. I drove to and from work that day with no problems, a total of 80 miles round trip. I drove it to work yesterday morning with no problems as well. It was yesterday afternoon when my car let me down!
I cranked it up and let it idle for a few minutes before I proceeded to head home. It was not backfiring, idling crazy, or doing anything out of the ordinary. I backed up, stopped at the light and prepared to turn right. The light turns green, and I turn, shifting from 1st to 2nd and attempted to accelerate. It doesn't seem to want to go but before I can even think on that fact, I hear a sudden noise and I can hear the engine starting to die and it sounds like something had fallen off and was scraping the ground or something. I managed to coast into a parking lot and noticed the battery light had popped on. I reach up to turn the car off, but it was already off. All my accessories worked. My radio was still playing etc. All power options still worked. I tried to crank her back up, but as she tried, it made a metal screeching noise similar to a bad started. it would't start. I tried two more times but nothing. I checked my battery connections (which I doubted was messed up since I could still use everything) but to no avail, everything seemed fine. I checked a couple of fuses but they all looked fine as well.
I doubted it in my mind but the next thing I tried was to deflood the engine, even though I knew it shouldn't have just shut off on me while driving if it was flooded. I took the two fuel pump fuses out and following a video, mashed the gas pedal and tried to crank it for 5 seconds. Then I waited for 5 seconds and tried again. Now suddenly it won't even try to crank! It just makes on small click and all my accessories will still work but it won't attempt to crank at all.
We took the plugs out, which were all dry except one was slightly wet, cleaned them even though they didn't look bad at all. It still won't attempt to crank. We tried to jump it thinking the battery could have died for some reason...but nothing again.
Then we tried to push start it but that didn't work either. I had it towed to my house.
I don’t think I left anything out. Thanks!
new edit
I forgot to mention when I was deflooding, it backfired once really loudly
EDIT 10/4/13: I checked my engine light and I do have a new code. It's the code P2004, for an intake valve.
Last edited by Leanne Gutierrez; 10-05-2013 at 07:05 AM. Reason: new information
10-04-2013, 10:15 AM
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Sometimes yes, sometimes no.
A common saying in the racing world is "an engine feels strongest right before it blows". An engine failure can be an extremely sudden thing if it fails due to a seal breaking. Violent, abrupt, and terminal.
A common saying in the racing world is "an engine feels strongest right before it blows". An engine failure can be an extremely sudden thing if it fails due to a seal breaking. Violent, abrupt, and terminal.
10-04-2013, 10:16 AM
#3
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Not always. Sudden mechanical failures happen to all types of engines.
Piston engines can run perfectly fine, then timing belts break and, while technically not a blown engine, a very expensive valve job.
Components fail, like water pumps or radiators while driving, engine seals can shatter, lots of things can cause sudden failures.
Piston engines can run perfectly fine, then timing belts break and, while technically not a blown engine, a very expensive valve job.
Components fail, like water pumps or radiators while driving, engine seals can shatter, lots of things can cause sudden failures.
10-04-2013, 10:23 AM
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ive been waiting for my old account to be un-disabled so i can post a thread about what has happened to me. i dont want to put my problems in this persons threads but i could use some insight to ease my soul while at work.
10-04-2013, 11:11 AM
#6
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
10-04-2013, 11:20 AM
#7
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Nevermind, thanks RIWWP.
10-05-2013, 07:17 AM
#8
Ok finally got my account back yay. So anyway yep. I was searching what that code meant but having found anything relevant. Most of what I see, people are still able to drive the car and it hasn't shut off on them and not cranked up. If anyone has any other information on that could you link me?
10-05-2013, 07:44 AM
#9
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Hi, unfortunately, it sounds bad from your description, but you never know.
The loud noise it initially made is troubling.
After it first wouldn't turn over and made the screeching noise,, you tried to deflood it and said it would do nothing. Not turning over, or the loud noise every time?
It backfired, so it cranked at least once, right? Was it cranking normally at all?
Could you tell if the plug was wet from fuel, or coolant?
The loud noise it initially made is troubling.
After it first wouldn't turn over and made the screeching noise,, you tried to deflood it and said it would do nothing. Not turning over, or the loud noise every time?
It backfired, so it cranked at least once, right? Was it cranking normally at all?
Could you tell if the plug was wet from fuel, or coolant?
10-05-2013, 07:58 AM
#10
Hi, unfortunately, it sounds bad from your description, but you never know.
The loud noise it initially made is troubling.
After it first wouldn't turn over and made the screeching noise,, you tried to deflood it and said it would do nothing. Not turning over, or the loud noise every time?
It backfired, so it cranked at least once, right? Was it cranking normally at all?
Could you tell if the plug was wet from fuel, or coolant?
The loud noise it initially made is troubling.
After it first wouldn't turn over and made the screeching noise,, you tried to deflood it and said it would do nothing. Not turning over, or the loud noise every time?
It backfired, so it cranked at least once, right? Was it cranking normally at all?
Could you tell if the plug was wet from fuel, or coolant?
The engine never started once it shut down, only before I tried to deflood it would turn over but now after I tried to deflood with only the first step, it no longer tries to turn over.
10-05-2013, 09:18 AM
#11
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I'm a little confused, when it cranked for 5 seconds and backfired, did it sound like normal cranking?
At first I thought your loud noise was a bad seal in your engine grinding in the housing, but if it turned over normally, I'm not so sure.
You are sure your battery is good? You may want to take it out and have it checked at an auto parts store.
That still wouldn't explain the loud noise.
If you want to avoid taking it to the dealer, you might want to search your regional forum for possible assistance, or advice on trusted shops or mechanics.
I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
I'm not an expert, but I try to help until someone more knowledgeable can help.
Weekends are kind of slow, so be patient.
Good luck!
At first I thought your loud noise was a bad seal in your engine grinding in the housing, but if it turned over normally, I'm not so sure.
You are sure your battery is good? You may want to take it out and have it checked at an auto parts store.
That still wouldn't explain the loud noise.
If you want to avoid taking it to the dealer, you might want to search your regional forum for possible assistance, or advice on trusted shops or mechanics.
I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
I'm not an expert, but I try to help until someone more knowledgeable can help.
Weekends are kind of slow, so be patient.
Good luck!
10-05-2013, 09:52 AM
#12
No it wasn't the normal cranking noise, it was the same grinding cranking noise similar to a starter that is stuck (though if that was the case, what would that have to do with the engine shutting off while driving?)
Yes the battery is fine. That also wouldn't have much to do with shutting off while driving, perhaps an alternator would, and if so that would explain the battery light popping on before the car died. We are going to take a few things apart this afternoon to further investigate. My engine seals blowing doesn't seem the cause to me, but I do know that it can happen suddenly with no warning. Also before anyone asks it did have oil in it.
Yes the battery is fine. That also wouldn't have much to do with shutting off while driving, perhaps an alternator would, and if so that would explain the battery light popping on before the car died. We are going to take a few things apart this afternoon to further investigate. My engine seals blowing doesn't seem the cause to me, but I do know that it can happen suddenly with no warning. Also before anyone asks it did have oil in it.
10-05-2013, 10:06 AM
#13
The engine shut-off sounds like a fuel pump failure.
The most common failure for them is when the pump overheats and ceases to deliver fuel. It can cause studdering ahead of the actual failure as the fuel flow diminishes. It's hard to say how frequent that is though, since most people just report the shut-off, and they may have just not felt the immediately preceding symptoms.
The studdering ahead of time indicates that there was momentary random interruption of the fuel delivery and/or ignition power. The misfires could be from this, although an APV or SSV valve problem could trigger misfires as well.
Since you still had electrical power, it is unlikely an electrical failure that killed it, but it's possible. For example if the Eng fuse blew, then it would kill the engine, AND prevent any attempt to re-start it. Electrical failures are typically very immediate, no prior warning, so I don't think that is going to be a factor here. Check fuses anyway, just to be sure.
A vacuum problem could affect the APV and SSV, and at a severe stage, could shut off the engine, however it shouldn't provide any deterrence to re-starting. Keeping it alive after starting, yes, but not the initial start.
An overfill on oil could have burped a chunk of oil into the intake, interfering with the valving, causing misfires, and on the extreme, foul the ignition severely. Another owner did this while hooning in a snow covered parking lot a month or so ago. If you have oil in the upper intake manifold, this could easily be a cause.
You also could have picked up some metal road debris on the e-shaft sensor (which is a magnet), fouling the reading, which can trigger misfires and in the extreme shut off the engine. Easy to just wipe off to ensure that it isn't the problem. Could also have come loose a bit and moved away from the pulley's timing wheel, which would block the ECU from knowing when to inject the fuel and fire the plugs.
Compression loss on the engine is possible, though it would be a slow death with lots of symptoms ahead of time, OR a sudden failure with various unpleasant noises as the seals are chewed up and spit out. None of this was mentioned so I'd guess your problem isn't here.
A severely clogged cat is a possibility too, though would be preceded by heavy power loss from the engine, also not mentioned.
And finally, it's possible that you ran out of gas There have been a few broken gas gauges over the years that I recall, leading to an out of gas scenario when the gauge reads greater than empty. Put some gas in to be sure that isn't the problem.
The most common failure for them is when the pump overheats and ceases to deliver fuel. It can cause studdering ahead of the actual failure as the fuel flow diminishes. It's hard to say how frequent that is though, since most people just report the shut-off, and they may have just not felt the immediately preceding symptoms.
The studdering ahead of time indicates that there was momentary random interruption of the fuel delivery and/or ignition power. The misfires could be from this, although an APV or SSV valve problem could trigger misfires as well.
Since you still had electrical power, it is unlikely an electrical failure that killed it, but it's possible. For example if the Eng fuse blew, then it would kill the engine, AND prevent any attempt to re-start it. Electrical failures are typically very immediate, no prior warning, so I don't think that is going to be a factor here. Check fuses anyway, just to be sure.
A vacuum problem could affect the APV and SSV, and at a severe stage, could shut off the engine, however it shouldn't provide any deterrence to re-starting. Keeping it alive after starting, yes, but not the initial start.
An overfill on oil could have burped a chunk of oil into the intake, interfering with the valving, causing misfires, and on the extreme, foul the ignition severely. Another owner did this while hooning in a snow covered parking lot a month or so ago. If you have oil in the upper intake manifold, this could easily be a cause.
You also could have picked up some metal road debris on the e-shaft sensor (which is a magnet), fouling the reading, which can trigger misfires and in the extreme shut off the engine. Easy to just wipe off to ensure that it isn't the problem. Could also have come loose a bit and moved away from the pulley's timing wheel, which would block the ECU from knowing when to inject the fuel and fire the plugs.
Compression loss on the engine is possible, though it would be a slow death with lots of symptoms ahead of time, OR a sudden failure with various unpleasant noises as the seals are chewed up and spit out. None of this was mentioned so I'd guess your problem isn't here.
A severely clogged cat is a possibility too, though would be preceded by heavy power loss from the engine, also not mentioned.
And finally, it's possible that you ran out of gas
There have been a few broken gas gauges over the years that I recall, leading to an out of gas scenario when the gauge reads greater than empty. Put some gas in to be sure that isn't the problem.
10-05-2013, 10:08 AM
#14
Shouldn't I hear the pump whine when I turn on the key?
It was low on gas with the light on two days before this happened so it could have gotten hot or clogged perhaps. Any input, anyone? Maybe that could explain also why even after putting the fuel pump fuses back in and trying to crank it, it isn't receiving fuel, I assume.
It was low on gas with the light on two days before this happened so it could have gotten hot or clogged perhaps. Any input, anyone? Maybe that could explain also why even after putting the fuel pump fuses back in and trying to crank it, it isn't receiving fuel, I assume.
Last edited by Noxity; 10-05-2013 at 10:12 AM.
10-05-2013, 10:30 AM
#15
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Low fuel can cause the fuel pump to fail. It is recommended to not let the level get below 1/4 for that reason.
It was not low when it stopped, was it?
There has been discussion of fuel starvation causing damage, I think it may be discussed in the new owner sticky.
Also, you always use premium gas, right?
Have to go now, I'll be interested in anything you find out. I'll check back later.
Please keep us updated.
Good luck!
It was not low when it stopped, was it?
There has been discussion of fuel starvation causing damage, I think it may be discussed in the new owner sticky.
Also, you always use premium gas, right?
Have to go now, I'll be interested in anything you find out. I'll check back later.
Please keep us updated.
Good luck!
10-05-2013, 11:51 AM
#16
You can't assume anything.
1. The fuel pump is or isn't pumping fuel?
2. The fuel presdure is or isn't up to specification?
3. The engine is or isn't turning over when you are trying to crank it.
4. The battery is or isn't passing a proper load test?
P2004 is the APV stuck open code. This won't help the engine to start when cranking. It sounds to me like you have a battery or other electrical issue. It's possible there isn't enough juice to cycle the APV motor properly and this caused the code. You need to start with getting answers to the prior questions rather than making assumptions and listening to other people making assumptions. If the battery passes a load test than you need to make sure the cables are connected properly when it is reinstalled. Check all the related fuses and make sure none are blown. If it sounds like the starter motor is engaging but not turning the engine over then likely some mechanical failure has caused a seizure. Otherwise once you verify proper fuel pump operation and the engine is capable of cranking over then clear the codes. If the engine cranks but doesn't start and the P2004 code returns then you will need to address this next.
Repairing the vehicle is a process. Guessing at things, whether your own guesses or from someone else, is not how you get out of this situation.
1. The fuel pump is or isn't pumping fuel?
2. The fuel presdure is or isn't up to specification?
3. The engine is or isn't turning over when you are trying to crank it.
4. The battery is or isn't passing a proper load test?
P2004 is the APV stuck open code. This won't help the engine to start when cranking. It sounds to me like you have a battery or other electrical issue. It's possible there isn't enough juice to cycle the APV motor properly and this caused the code. You need to start with getting answers to the prior questions rather than making assumptions and listening to other people making assumptions. If the battery passes a load test than you need to make sure the cables are connected properly when it is reinstalled. Check all the related fuses and make sure none are blown. If it sounds like the starter motor is engaging but not turning the engine over then likely some mechanical failure has caused a seizure. Otherwise once you verify proper fuel pump operation and the engine is capable of cranking over then clear the codes. If the engine cranks but doesn't start and the P2004 code returns then you will need to address this next.
Repairing the vehicle is a process. Guessing at things, whether your own guesses or from someone else, is not how you get out of this situation.
10-05-2013, 12:37 PM
#17
You can't assume anything.
1. The fuel pump is or isn't pumping fuel?
2. The fuel presdure is or isn't up to specification?
3. The engine is or isn't turning over when you are trying to crank it.
4. The battery is or isn't passing a proper load test?
P2004 is the APV stuck open code. This won't help the engine to start when cranking. It sounds to me like you have a battery or other electrical issue. It's possible there isn't enough juice to cycle the APV motor properly and this caused the code. You need to start with getting answers to the prior questions rather than making assumptions and listening to other people making assumptions. If the battery passes a load test than you need to make sure the cables are connected properly when it is reinstalled. Check all the related fuses and make sure none are blown. If it sounds like the starter motor is engaging but not turning the engine over then likely some mechanical failure has caused a seizure. Otherwise once you verify proper fuel pump operation and the engine is capable of cranking over then clear the codes. If the engine cranks but doesn't start and the P2004 code returns then you will need to address this next.
Repairing the vehicle is a process. Guessing at things, whether your own guesses or from someone else, is not how you get out of this situation.
1. The fuel pump is or isn't pumping fuel?
2. The fuel presdure is or isn't up to specification?
3. The engine is or isn't turning over when you are trying to crank it.
4. The battery is or isn't passing a proper load test?
P2004 is the APV stuck open code. This won't help the engine to start when cranking. It sounds to me like you have a battery or other electrical issue. It's possible there isn't enough juice to cycle the APV motor properly and this caused the code. You need to start with getting answers to the prior questions rather than making assumptions and listening to other people making assumptions. If the battery passes a load test than you need to make sure the cables are connected properly when it is reinstalled. Check all the related fuses and make sure none are blown. If it sounds like the starter motor is engaging but not turning the engine over then likely some mechanical failure has caused a seizure. Otherwise once you verify proper fuel pump operation and the engine is capable of cranking over then clear the codes. If the engine cranks but doesn't start and the P2004 code returns then you will need to address this next.
Repairing the vehicle is a process. Guessing at things, whether your own guesses or from someone else, is not how you get out of this situation.
The starter engaged in the beginning but the engine did not start so a mechanical failure there seems possible. But I'm really more concerned about why the car died while I was in the process of accelerating. Do you have any thoughts on that part?
edit: i will also be posting when i find new information. I am planning on taking the starter off and investigating there and the alternator, as well as checking out the pump. I will also pull out every single fuse and relay. There are a few relays that I don't know their function, and I don't have my owner's manual.
Last edited by Noxity; 10-05-2013 at 12:40 PM.
10-05-2013, 04:08 PM
#19
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
No it wasn't the normal cranking noise, it was the same grinding cranking noise similar to a starter that is stuck (though if that was the case, what would that have to do with the engine shutting off while driving?)
Yes the battery is fine. That also wouldn't have much to do with shutting off while driving, perhaps an alternator would, and if so that would explain the battery light popping on before the car died. We are going to take a few things apart this afternoon to further investigate. My engine seals blowing doesn't seem the cause to me, but I do know that it can happen suddenly with no warning. Also before anyone asks it did have oil in it.
Yes the battery is fine. That also wouldn't have much to do with shutting off while driving, perhaps an alternator would, and if so that would explain the battery light popping on before the car died. We are going to take a few things apart this afternoon to further investigate. My engine seals blowing doesn't seem the cause to me, but I do know that it can happen suddenly with no warning. Also before anyone asks it did have oil in it.
Sorry about any responses that didn't apply to your problem.
10-05-2013, 04:13 PM
#20
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I'm a little confused, when it cranked for 5 seconds and backfired, did it sound like normal cranking?
At first I thought your loud noise was a bad seal in your engine grinding in the housing, but if it turned over normally, I'm not so sure.
You are sure your battery is good? You may want to take it out and have it checked at an auto parts store.
That still wouldn't explain the loud noise.
If you want to avoid taking it to the dealer, you might want to search your regional forum for possible assistance, or advice on trusted shops or mechanics.
I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
I'm not an expert, but I try to help until someone more knowledgeable can help.
Weekends are kind of slow, so be patient.
Good luck!
At first I thought your loud noise was a bad seal in your engine grinding in the housing, but if it turned over normally, I'm not so sure.
You are sure your battery is good? You may want to take it out and have it checked at an auto parts store.
That still wouldn't explain the loud noise.
If you want to avoid taking it to the dealer, you might want to search your regional forum for possible assistance, or advice on trusted shops or mechanics.
I'm sorry I can't be of more help.
I'm not an expert, but I try to help until someone more knowledgeable can help.
Weekends are kind of slow, so be patient.
Good luck!
This reply was in response to Leanne's original post.
Sorry to you and Noxity for any confusion.
10-05-2013, 05:04 PM
#21
Noxity is my account lol remember when I said I was waiting for my old account to get un-disabled? =P I am Leanne.
Update also, I have checked all relays and fuses, all checked out ok. Took a look at the starter, a wire was not hooked up correctly and we can't get the bendix to spin so we are checking it at an auto parts store.
Update also, I have checked all relays and fuses, all checked out ok. Took a look at the starter, a wire was not hooked up correctly and we can't get the bendix to spin so we are checking it at an auto parts store.
10-05-2013, 05:56 PM
#22
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Noxity is my account lol remember when I said I was waiting for my old account to get un-disabled? =P I am Leanne.
Update also, I have checked all relays and fuses, all checked out ok. Took a look at the starter, a wire was not hooked up correctly and we can't get the bendix to spin so we are checking it at an auto parts store.
Update also, I have checked all relays and fuses, all checked out ok. Took a look at the starter, a wire was not hooked up correctly and we can't get the bendix to spin so we are checking it at an auto parts store.
10-05-2013, 06:05 PM
#23
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
If you don't have an owner's manual, there is a link to a PDF for your manual at the bottom of the New Owner's sticky in the New Members section.
10-06-2013, 10:09 AM
#24
Thank you. So far we are still getting nowhere, as the starter works fine at the store but yet we couldn't get it to work on the car. Perhaps the starter is weak, but yet the bendix should still pop out while hooked up and not bolted on, as far as I am aware and that is not happening. I hope we don't have a bad cable! Yet I am still a little confused as to how this would shut the car off, unless it was clutch related? I mean it did happen after I shifted to 2nd.
We had been working on the clutch recently and the noise I heard might have something to do with the flywheel, blah I don't know so I will keep you updated as usual. =)
I have a question though, when we had the starter hooked up but unbolted so we could see if it would come on, the ignition no longer makes the click it was doing before. Now it is completely quiet when I try to crank. Would this have something to do with me unhooking the battery? Does the car need to relearn something? I've unhooked the battery before and the only thing that happened was the DSC light and radio reset.
So we went from trying to turn over making a screeching noise like a bad starter, to just one click after trying to deflood, to nothing! Again all accessories work.
This is lame! I miss my car already!
We had been working on the clutch recently and the noise I heard might have something to do with the flywheel, blah I don't know so I will keep you updated as usual. =)
I have a question though, when we had the starter hooked up but unbolted so we could see if it would come on, the ignition no longer makes the click it was doing before. Now it is completely quiet when I try to crank. Would this have something to do with me unhooking the battery? Does the car need to relearn something? I've unhooked the battery before and the only thing that happened was the DSC light and radio reset.
So we went from trying to turn over making a screeching noise like a bad starter, to just one click after trying to deflood, to nothing! Again all accessories work.
This is lame! I miss my car already!
10-06-2013, 10:39 AM
#25
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Sorry, it's hard to say. As far as the battery goes, loose ground maybe?
It is purely speculation over the web. You still have to account for it making the noise while driving.
You still might want to reach out to someone in your area.
There may be someone knowledgeable who is willing to assist you for some pizza and a few brews.
It might save you some time and money.
It is purely speculation over the web. You still have to account for it making the noise while driving.
You still might want to reach out to someone in your area.
There may be someone knowledgeable who is willing to assist you for some pizza and a few brews.
It might save you some time and money.
