bd32322

Hi guys,

I drive in Massachusetts throughout the year and the road salt has finally gotten to my car. While changing out rotors and pads, the slide bolt that moves freely in the caliper bracket and allows the caliper to squeeze the pads - completely jammed.

Trying to free it sheared it off. There is still about half an inch stub sticking out of the caliper bracket. And it must be stuck right at the join of the bolt and the bracket because after the join the bolt is actually thinner than the caliper cavity it sits in.

Wondering if there are any tips to get that stuck slide bolt out. I checked with the dealer and the price of the bracket is 207 $ !!!

Thanks in advance

bd32322

I am also wondering what aftermarket sources are there for caliper brackets and or calipers

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

to remove the broken part clamp vice grips on it after soaking it in pb blaster and work it back and forth. if that doesnt work heat it with a torch. a junk yard would be cheaper than a dealer or try mazmart.

when doing brakes make sure to lube the pins

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

^^^^
+1
I had one seize years ago and you can work it loose, just soak the hell out of it and slowly work the bolt out with a good set of clamps and a vice grip.

when you do the brakes, I'd recommend replacing the rubber sleeves over those bolts, over time they can dry and crack allowing moisture to get in and that can cause the seizing.

The stock RX-8 brakes are VERY good but if you're looking to change the calipers, racing brake is one of the cheaper options. (though still more expensive then OEM)

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

often overlooked by people is to make sure the pads move freely in the bracket after you wire brushed the part where the ears of the pads slide. the "ears" sometimes have burs or excess paint on them and if they dont move freely it will cause premature wear. i usually use a wiz wheel on a die grinder or a dremel tool to remove any high spots just dont get carried away

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

If that doesn't work, you may be able to drill it out. If you can get a drill just below tap size & drill it centered sometimes the heat of drilling will break it free & it will come out with the drill.
If you're lucky. I got pretty good at that.

RXeligion

a propane torch, a small hammer, and a good set of vice grips took care of a pin that stuck on me. I used a .357 bore brush chucked in a power drill to clean the corrosion out of the caliper. It worked pretty well.

bd32322

Thanks guys !

In summary looks like I use a dremel tool to get at as much of the corrosion as I can. Then PB blaster and vise grips. If not, drill and hope that it turns with the drill after a while.

And finally a blow torch.

And then go back and re-lube all the pins. I never lubed them before when changing the pads - hence completely my fault. Live and learn I guess.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Propane torch with vice grips.
Drill as a last resort.

bd32322

Thanks - will do

Ber1n

This happened to my control arm slider bolt that bolted bolted into the subframe. I sprayed it with an anti rust compound from an auto store, let it sit for a few minutes, hammered it out an inch, sprayed more in, and repeated until it came out.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Moved. DIY is for when you have a set of instructions to provide.