Starting a Flooded Engine (De Flooding or Un Flooding)
03-07-2005, 01:11 PM
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CoRay
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Location: Austin, TX
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Starting a Flooded Engine (De Flooding or Un Flooding)
I flooded my 8 for the 1st time this morning. I used to own a 1st Gen RX7, so should have known better. Never start the car without letting it really warm up.
Anyway, a tech at my local dealer gave me directions on how to get er going. I was able to do this in a suit, so it's not hard.
1- Hook up your car battery with jumpers to a running vehicle or really good charger.....your gonnna need more juice than our little batteries supply.
2- Unplug the "airpump". This is on the passenger side wheel well and looks like a big washer fluid pump. There are two places you can disconnect this. One is on top of the unit and difficult to work with. Leave that one alone. The other place is about 6" down-wire from the unit closer to the wheel well. That is a large, easy to disconnect unit. Unplug that one.
3- Unplug the small air hose at the base of the big air intake. There are two small diameter hoses that are plugged into the larger air intake, very close to the top unit of the engine (not by the air-filter box). One hose is directly verticle and one is offset about 5-10 degrees to the left. Unplug the one that is directly verticle.
4- Now that you have plenty of juice from the jumpers, just keep trying to start the engine with the gas pedal to the floor in 8-10 second intveralls. It will eventually start. Once is does, it'll ride rough for about 20 sec and blow off some smoke, but you'll be good. Undo all the steps above while it's idleing and your good to go!
The tech told me he's never not been able to get one up this way and that it may take 30 or 40 cranks.
It took me about 10.
I would have to wait and get a real good charge in between some of these cranks. You really need it to spin fast.
The tech said he heard that Mazda was working on a faster spinning starter and a bigger battery to combat this problem.
Good luck and let me know if these descriptions require a picture or two.
Anyway, a tech at my local dealer gave me directions on how to get er going. I was able to do this in a suit, so it's not hard.
1- Hook up your car battery with jumpers to a running vehicle or really good charger.....your gonnna need more juice than our little batteries supply.
2- Unplug the "airpump". This is on the passenger side wheel well and looks like a big washer fluid pump. There are two places you can disconnect this. One is on top of the unit and difficult to work with. Leave that one alone. The other place is about 6" down-wire from the unit closer to the wheel well. That is a large, easy to disconnect unit. Unplug that one.
3- Unplug the small air hose at the base of the big air intake. There are two small diameter hoses that are plugged into the larger air intake, very close to the top unit of the engine (not by the air-filter box). One hose is directly verticle and one is offset about 5-10 degrees to the left. Unplug the one that is directly verticle.
4- Now that you have plenty of juice from the jumpers, just keep trying to start the engine with the gas pedal to the floor in 8-10 second intveralls. It will eventually start. Once is does, it'll ride rough for about 20 sec and blow off some smoke, but you'll be good. Undo all the steps above while it's idleing and your good to go!
The tech told me he's never not been able to get one up this way and that it may take 30 or 40 cranks.
It took me about 10.
I would have to wait and get a real good charge in between some of these cranks. You really need it to spin fast.
The tech said he heard that Mazda was working on a faster spinning starter and a bigger battery to combat this problem.
Good luck and let me know if these descriptions require a picture or two.
Last edited by thehicks; 03-15-2005 at 09:38 PM.
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