Stalling, Idle Hunt, No power, I am stumped
05-17-2010, 07:53 AM
#1
Should I gut it?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Loganville
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stalling, Idle Hunt, No power, I am stumped
Hey guys, long time rotorhead but new to the Rx8. I have a car that has stumped me.
Stats:
2004
110K
Compression = 90PSI on all 3 hits per rotor
Symptom: Car has no pull under 5K RPM. Horrendous to drive from starts. Revs fine when not under load. Idle hunts from 500 to 1000 RPM. likes to stall. When coming of idle sometimes the motor does not seem to respond to the throttle pedal. Literally feels like a shot of nitrous when it hits 5K.
Front pulley set was wobbling by 1/4". (further inspection showed the motor had .025" end float)
CELs: P0301 (cyl 1 mis-fire), P0172 (System rich bank 1)
Action: Removed front cover and replaced all thrust washers and bearings with new Mazda parts. Replaced both front pulleys, trigger wheel and the hub with new Mazda parts. Put the motor back in.
Same running issues. Mis-fire CEL gone.
Action: Replaced the gutted Cat/midpipe with a used functioning unit.
Results: Same
Action: Replaced coils and plugs with new Mazda and NGK. Cleaned MAF.
Results: Same
Action: Replaced MAF with used Item (from Tom @ the Parts Group <- Seems like a great guy)
Results: Same.
Possible Next Actions?:
Neutral switch
Drop rear muffler section to check for blockage.
Any ideas?
-billy
Stats:
2004
110K
Compression = 90PSI on all 3 hits per rotor
Symptom: Car has no pull under 5K RPM. Horrendous to drive from starts. Revs fine when not under load. Idle hunts from 500 to 1000 RPM. likes to stall. When coming of idle sometimes the motor does not seem to respond to the throttle pedal. Literally feels like a shot of nitrous when it hits 5K.
Front pulley set was wobbling by 1/4". (further inspection showed the motor had .025" end float)
CELs: P0301 (cyl 1 mis-fire), P0172 (System rich bank 1)
Action: Removed front cover and replaced all thrust washers and bearings with new Mazda parts. Replaced both front pulleys, trigger wheel and the hub with new Mazda parts. Put the motor back in.
Same running issues. Mis-fire CEL gone.
Action: Replaced the gutted Cat/midpipe with a used functioning unit.
Results: Same
Action: Replaced coils and plugs with new Mazda and NGK. Cleaned MAF.
Results: Same
Action: Replaced MAF with used Item (from Tom @ the Parts Group <- Seems like a great guy)
Results: Same.
Possible Next Actions?:
Neutral switch
Drop rear muffler section to check for blockage.
Any ideas?
-billy
05-17-2010, 08:09 AM
#2
The devil made me do it
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I would check intake system. Since you were running rich and a new set of ports, aux ports if I remember right, opens around 5K I would guess you might have starved it for air.
05-17-2010, 11:41 AM
#4
Should I gut it?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Loganville
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your funny.
-billy
05-17-2010, 11:49 AM
#5
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
9 Posts
Well.................if/when you need it.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/
05-17-2010, 12:45 PM
#7
No distributor? No thanks
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey, do SSV, VDI and APV all have little limit switches to confirm when they're full-open and full-closed? If you alternate +/- 12V across the APV by unplugging the harness at the ECU and just driving it with some gator clips, are there other pins you could sample to know that it's going full-open and full-closed?
05-17-2010, 09:30 PM
#8
APV does a self test...and will set a CEL..same with SSV...and the VDI doesn't open at any RPM that would affect the driveability....
Primary injectors .....unlikely as well...
Throttle body is a possibility..it controls the idle....but if it is really fubarred it should throw a code..
Clutch switch can cause a hunting idle..but not the other symptoms..
Hows the compression?..that would be nice to know...poor compression can cause low speed problems...and get better because the compression ( sealing) gets a lot better with engine speed
Primary injectors .....unlikely as well...
Throttle body is a possibility..it controls the idle....but if it is really fubarred it should throw a code..
Clutch switch can cause a hunting idle..but not the other symptoms..
Hows the compression?..that would be nice to know...poor compression can cause low speed problems...and get better because the compression ( sealing) gets a lot better with engine speed
05-18-2010, 07:17 AM
#9
Should I gut it?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Loganville
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
APV does a self test...and will set a CEL..same with SSV...and the VDI doesn't open at any RPM that would affect the driveability....
Primary injectors .....unlikely as well...
Throttle body is a possibility..it controls the idle....but if it is really fubarred it should throw a code..
Clutch switch can cause a hunting idle..but not the other symptoms..
Hows the compression?..that would be nice to know...poor compression can cause low speed problems...and get better because the compression ( sealing) gets a lot better with engine speed
Primary injectors .....unlikely as well...
Throttle body is a possibility..it controls the idle....but if it is really fubarred it should throw a code..
Clutch switch can cause a hunting idle..but not the other symptoms..
Hows the compression?..that would be nice to know...poor compression can cause low speed problems...and get better because the compression ( sealing) gets a lot better with engine speed
-billy
05-18-2010, 04:05 PM
#11
Should I gut it?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Loganville
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Apparently the ODBII scanner I have does not show A/F. I need a USB to COM adapter in order to hook up my wideband.
I have found the car runs great when in open loop. Once it goes to closed loop it has no power.
-billy
I have found the car runs great when in open loop. Once it goes to closed loop it has no power.
-billy
05-18-2010, 04:56 PM
#13
Reset your ecentric profile shaft.
hope that you did not damage it or eas damage before you replaced the pully.
Hunting idle has been a neutral switch. I think I have read oone other solution.
In other cars/bikes a hunting idle can be a vaccum leak so check all the air conncetions just for fun.
hope that you did not damage it or eas damage before you replaced the pully.
Hunting idle has been a neutral switch. I think I have read oone other solution.
In other cars/bikes a hunting idle can be a vaccum leak so check all the air conncetions just for fun.
05-29-2010, 12:09 PM
#14
Should I gut it?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Loganville
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reset your ecentric profile shaft.
hope that you did not damage it or eas damage before you replaced the pully.
Hunting idle has been a neutral switch. I think I have read oone other solution.
In other cars/bikes a hunting idle can be a vaccum leak so check all the air conncetions just for fun.
hope that you did not damage it or eas damage before you replaced the pully.
Hunting idle has been a neutral switch. I think I have read oone other solution.
In other cars/bikes a hunting idle can be a vaccum leak so check all the air conncetions just for fun.
Neutral switch does not see to be the issue since it is more related to fuel system open lop verses closed loop.
Been a while so here is an update. Been busy and not had time to work on it.
While the issues were still there I drove it a bit by pulling hard in first and it would trigger the car to stay in open loop1 or open loop2. Worked for a while but each redlight it would try to go back into closed loop and had no power. Had to pull over and let the cat cool off one day so I decided to let the car sit while I was busy.
This morning I swapped in a front 02 sensor (29K mile used unit I picked up from Tom @ the Parts Group). It has been running like a champ. I have not driven it to much or to far in fear I would get it stuck on the side of the road with a glowing cat again.
Next step will be to build a cat midpipe . I will toss in an extra bung for the wideband. Then we will see if stays running well or if the running issues fouled the front O2 in the first place. Hopefully I can get it to stop throwing codes long enough to get it to pass emission.
-billy
Last edited by bwaits; 05-29-2010 at 12:12 PM.
05-29-2010, 12:15 PM
#15
Have reset the E profile a few times. Not the issue.
Neutral switch does not see to be the issue since it is more related to fuel system open lop verses closed loop.
Been a while so here is an update. Been busy and not had time to work on it.
While the issues were still there I drove it a bit by pulling hard in first and it would trigger the car to stay in open loop1 or open loop2. Worked for a while but each redlight it would try to go back into closed loop and had no power. Had to pull over and let the cat cool off one day so I decided to let the car sit while I was busy.
This morning I swapped in a front 02 sensor (29K mile used unit I picked up from Tom @ the Parts Group). It has been running like a champ. I have not driven it to much or to far in fear I would get it stuck on the side of the road with a glowing cat again.
Next step will be to build a cat midpipe . I will toss in an extra bung for the wideband. Then we will see if stays running well or if the running issues fouled the front O2 in the first place. Hopefully I can get it to stop throwing codes long enough to get it to pass emission.
-billy
Neutral switch does not see to be the issue since it is more related to fuel system open lop verses closed loop.
Been a while so here is an update. Been busy and not had time to work on it.
While the issues were still there I drove it a bit by pulling hard in first and it would trigger the car to stay in open loop1 or open loop2. Worked for a while but each redlight it would try to go back into closed loop and had no power. Had to pull over and let the cat cool off one day so I decided to let the car sit while I was busy.
This morning I swapped in a front 02 sensor (29K mile used unit I picked up from Tom @ the Parts Group). It has been running like a champ. I have not driven it to much or to far in fear I would get it stuck on the side of the road with a glowing cat again.
Next step will be to build a cat midpipe . I will toss in an extra bung for the wideband. Then we will see if stays running well or if the running issues fouled the front O2 in the first place. Hopefully I can get it to stop throwing codes long enough to get it to pass emission.
-billy
Last edited by Easy_E1; 05-29-2010 at 12:18 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gwailo
New Member Forum
30
06-07-2020 12:21 PM
Brooklynite
NE For Sale/Wanted
4
11-10-2015 06:42 PM
