seized toe and camber bolt removal question.
09-16-2015, 05:53 PM
#1
Grey Boy
Thread Starter
seized toe and camber bolt removal question.
Hi,
The toe and camber bolts on my front control arms are all seized. The camber, in the front, seems like it will be easy enough to cut out with a cutting wheel. But the toe adjustment bolt sits inside the frame. I might be able to get to the bottom with a sawsall and a long metal blade but that doesn't look like it will work with the top.
Anyone do this or have tips?
Regards.
The toe and camber bolts on my front control arms are all seized. The camber, in the front, seems like it will be easy enough to cut out with a cutting wheel. But the toe adjustment bolt sits inside the frame. I might be able to get to the bottom with a sawsall and a long metal blade but that doesn't look like it will work with the top.
Anyone do this or have tips?
Regards.
Last edited by titaneum_grey; 09-16-2015 at 05:55 PM.
09-16-2015, 07:47 PM
#3
^^^ +1
I just went through this. The subframe had to be dropped to cut the camber bolts out, no amount of heat, banging or penetrant was making a difference. They were not recognizable as bolts when finally removed.
I would consider how necessary this repair is, it's going to suck.
On the plus side, You can replace all bushings with polyurethane while its apart. Easy enough.
I just went through this. The subframe had to be dropped to cut the camber bolts out, no amount of heat, banging or penetrant was making a difference. They were not recognizable as bolts when finally removed.
I would consider how necessary this repair is, it's going to suck.
On the plus side, You can replace all bushings with polyurethane while its apart. Easy enough.
09-16-2015, 08:01 PM
#4
Oh yeah thats a total bitch. I couldn't reach any kind of cutter in there. But torching it until it was cherry red did work. Try torching it until its red and smacking it with a BFH. It came loose for me. You def need new bolts, washer and nuts. Only available at the dealer. And they're not cheap.
I still have to do my left side so I might try to fit a a sawzall in there. May try that and see if it cuts the bolt. Be prepared to have jelly arms the next day tho.
I still have to do my left side so I might try to fit a a sawzall in there. May try that and see if it cuts the bolt. Be prepared to have jelly arms the next day tho.
09-16-2015, 09:20 PM
#5
Grey Boy
Thread Starter
^^^ +1
I just went through this. The subframe had to be dropped to cut the camber bolts out, no amount of heat, banging or penetrant was making a difference. They were not recognizable as bolts when finally removed.
I would consider how necessary this repair is, it's going to suck.
On the plus side, You can replace all bushings with polyurethane while its apart. Easy enough.
I just went through this. The subframe had to be dropped to cut the camber bolts out, no amount of heat, banging or penetrant was making a difference. They were not recognizable as bolts when finally removed.
I would consider how necessary this repair is, it's going to suck.
On the plus side, You can replace all bushings with polyurethane while its apart. Easy enough.
Right now my camber is even, L+R and both toe within a few decimal points. Or at least they were before I stated loosening and banging away on it.
My problem is the front end binds when in turns, always has. I tried Mazda Speed shocks and springs but with little improvement. It was suggested that a camber adjustment could solve that problem. Plus, I just cut out and replace my rear, seized, control arms.
If I can't find a better way, I might have to farm this one out or live with it like it is.
Last edited by titaneum_grey; 09-16-2015 at 09:24 PM.
09-16-2015, 11:04 PM
#6
Extraordinary Engineering
I took mine in for this operation... Caster and camber bolts... Took a guy with a full shop and a great set of tools 6 hours to get the bolts out... after an hour of trying to get them to move...
Money well spent.
Money well spent.
Last edited by DarkBrew; 09-16-2015 at 11:07 PM.
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