threeosixx

Thanks for the fast reply. Yeah checked everything that you mentioned; right slot, tested all solenoid and they're good. I guess I'm down to the wire harness. Might go the junkyard and see how much they go for for the whole harness.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

take the solenoid out, heat it up with a hairdryer . check again.

the solenoid usually "stops working" when it's hot. heat it until it's sorta too hot to touch, then test it.

reni04

Thank you for that pearl of wisdom.I have a 2004 rx8 automatic 96,000 miles and am pulling the p2259 code and thanks to this site i now understand where all the componets are and pretty much how they function with one lone exception.

Does any one understand the fuse block under the hood?. I was just looking for any potential causes in the fuse block under the hood?. My problem is i don't know where in the fuse block is any fuses or breakers related to the air pump and solenoid so i can check to see if any breakers are dead or faulted in any way( looking for simplests thing first. I ruled out the motor i think because it turns on at cold start and runs for approx 2 minutes then shuts off so probably not that.I would like to know where in the fuse block is any related fuses or breakers.I don't see any designations for any thing to do with the Air pump or the solenoids?. I might be looking at them but don't understand what abreviations mean like(ST) or ETV?. Does any one understand the fuse block in regaurd to the air pump or fuses related to it or the solenoid?.

I do plan to take it in and bite the bullet for $130.00 to find out which part but if i can fix my self much easer on the wallet.Thanks. This site has furnished a wealth of knowledge so far cudo"s..

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

u mean fuse for Air pump or fuse for the said solenoid ?

reni04

I bit the bullet and took it to mazda and paid the $130 to tell me it is the air pump connected to the control valve.Some what simple to change out but for the fact i can't find a new pump any where?.Oh i did find one but it was over $500.00 bucks OUCH!.Any one have any ideas where i can find one?.

reni04

I had my visit to the Mazda dealer today and found out that my heat pump motor was starting to fail and was intermitent , which explains why i could drive for days and no CEL.I will replace the pump my self as it is pretty easy and i am fairly handy round cars even though the rx8 is a horse of a different color as it were.

My colorado plate sticker is up end of the month and i need to pass emisssions and to do this i will warm the car up prior to the emissions test and before i get there stop and leave the negitive battery cable off for 30 seconds or so and the CEL light will go out and not come back on till the first cold start after that.I should have no CEL during the test because the po 2259 code is for the heat pump which is a closed loop system and when the car is warm the ECU finds no fault and no CEl will be thrown, thus i will pass my emissions. I will report back later on.

Salmonella_6

Are the solenoids that are behind the UIM the same as Intake Runner Solenoid valves? That is what Mazda told me I needed replace. $600+

hobbie86

excuse me wondering you guys could answer a question i just want to double check something

hobbie86

hey guess just wanna double check something concerning the air,ssv, and vdi solenoids

hobbie86

excuse me i got a question concerning the air,ssv and the vdi solenoids

Salmonella_6

I will do my best to answer if possible

hobbie86

For the order top to bottom the Solenoid Connectors to the wiring harness the order goes blue (Air pump),ssv(white),vdi(Black) Just wanna make sure Cause im hunting a Bad Solenoid

reni04

The air pump solenoid is the top solenoid in a stack of 3 behind the uim almost in the center.

Salmonella_6

[QUOTE=reni04;4688626]The air pump solenoid is the top solenoid in a stack of 3 behind the uim almost in the center.[/QU
Stalling issues? I am having all three of them changed today. Will give a update when it's complete

reni04

[QUOTE=Salmonella_6;4688702]

If you have the money thats cool but usually it's "If it don't need fixen , don't fix it".

Salmonella_6

Well I was getting a light that said one needed replaced althought I found that not to be my stalling problem. Engine is not bad to. It was tested and was told the engine is A1. The problem the shopping is leaning toward after testing is a bad fuel pump. If I recall correctly, they put a pressure gauage on it, and it shot straigh up which was good. After letting the vehicle run for a while and reaching operating temputure and turning itself off they put the gauge on again and the pressure was rising very very slowly. Anyway I not speaking like a mechanic but I am sure you experts understand what I am trying to say. But it always appeared to be that my car was not getting gas at the point when it was stalling and not starting until after 15 minutes of cool down. So they will run more test for free on Monday and make sure it is the fuel pump.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Stalling can be a lot of things, if its bad fuel pump, ur car will struggle to run everytime u low on fuel, u don't even need to test it with a gauge.

quickjam

I have stalling probably just the same but I pulled this code for the air solenoid. I pulled it and tested. Bad solenoid I'll order one on eBay for about $30. It doesn't open. But I don't see how this would causing stalling at all. I've changed the fuel pump 3 different times. It alway surged after 45 minute of driving. Fuel gets hot pump warmer starts missing up. Been working on the car for 6 months. New battery plugs coils wires battery gutted cat mass air flow. 180k

itachi1

Hey guys, I'm back with this code. My car has been running good with no difference and no loss of power for the past 2 years then 8 months ago this code came back. I had to do the Smog check so I changed the Solenoid Valve and it cleared for 4 days I took the car in to get the smog check for my plates renewal and it Failed the Smog check, Saying there was a problem with something of the Air not ready and the Cat not ready. The smog check guy told me that it was because I disconnected the battery or cleared the check engine light... that I had to run the car for 50 to 70 miles so when I was letting it run on the 4th day the check engine light came back so I scanned it and its the same Freaken code P2259 so Now what should I try guys? Please any help will help, I need my car to pass the smog to get my new plates . Any help will be much appreciated.

itachi1

Did your car pass the emission test/ Smog check by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 30 seconds? If so, was your car running while you disconnected the cable or did you turn off the car? Let me know as I already changed the air solenoid valve and P2259 came back.

reni04

I have a 2004 automatic i made it through the emissions with a bad air solenoid and a CEL.I did just that but at the end of the test after driving maybe a mile the CEL came back on.The reason i mentioned it because it at least on my car had a lot to do with where i lifted the negative cable at.In my case i did it right next door to the emissions place, if i had done it in my garage vhances are the CEL wpuld have come on and failed the emissions test so where you do it has some thing to do with how long you can drive before it reappears/.My guess is within 7 miles or less.Just sayin.

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

Link to the page of P2259 DIY for removing the UIM pictures updated.

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

Here's a video:

G's RX-8

I know this is an old tread, but YOU SIR ARE A GENIUS. Thank you. Thanks to your DIY I was able to save some serious money. For those of you who want to do this, replace all three sensors (they are the same part#). You can also get a replacement part (non-OEM) on Amazon for a third of the price of what Mazda charges and it works just as well.

reni04

Much thanks, that was nothing short of outsstanding as a DIY on the uim. Thank you well done.