igropemotoko

Overdue for a state inspection and I live in an Emissions county in NC. So the CEL is a problem. For a while, I had a sticking SSV problem that gave me hell. Turned out I had a sticking solenoid that would stop working only after it warmed up.

Now I have the same P2070 (Intake Manf Tuning Valve Stuck Open) and P0076 (Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)) codes that I had before but the SSV is working like a champ every single time. Full power in mid range and you can clearly hear the valve drop when you cut the ign. off.

I can clear the code and it comes back on after the very next start up. Knowing the valve isn't sticking I'm leaning towards the SSV's bump switch. I suppose it's bad or has a poor connection. I'm only making the assumption that the switch is depressed when the valve is closed then releases the bump switch when it opens. Just looking for opinions before I dive into it.

Did some searching but couldn't find much on the SSV's bump switch itself.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

replace the solenoid.

anoble1

I recently had the P0076.
Follow this post for testing the solenoid. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...lenoid-190364/

Also take the vacuum chamber out and clean it and check the hoses.

Notice any power loss at a certain RPM? The SSV Opens around 3750RPM

Karack

start with P0076 and replace the solenoid and clear the code. if the second code comes back then do the following test.

P2070 is set when the valve doesn't close the switch in a timely manner, it basically means your SSV valve is carboned up and lazy even if it is returning to the fully closed position.

to verify borrow a mityvac and apply vacuum to the SSV actuator to open and close it about 30 times while watching the cam as it closes. if it hangs up even slightly when closing at any time then you need to service the SSV valve.

anoble1

See picture to add...

Gravey

iTrader: (3)

I recently had problems like this. It was continuously throwing the code. I replaced the solenoid, and cleaned the SSV and the code came back a week later. Replaced the switch and the code has been gone ever since, going on 2 months now.

igropemotoko

No power loss of any kind, valve is very easy to open. I had cleaned it also about a year ago when I was having the sticking solenoid issue just to make sure there would be no future problems.

Solenoid was replaced about a year ago but I have extras that came with another UIM I have so I may try to swap and see what happens. Had done all the vacuum tests before and it all checks out. Tested solenoids under vacuum and applied 12v to them to check function also. At that time the SSV solenoid would not switch once it got hot, thus causing the sticking SSV only after the car ran a while.

Knowing how it feels to not have the SSV work ( and it is damn obvious! ) I'm leaning towards the switch even more. Maybe the solenoid is going weak after a year and throwing the 76 code too but I don't know how or if the ECU could tie the two codes together with only one problem.

Maybe the SSV switch just isn't plugged in or it's connection is dirty. >_>

Gravey, how much was the SSV switch?

igropemotoko

Figured this out.

Switch was fine according to my voltmeter. I watched the actuator move several times then figured maybe it wasn't depressing the switch enough. I reached down with a pair of pliers and bent the "contact surface" of the actuator where it meets the bump switch. Problem solved. It could be the switch is worn or the valve isn't rolling through it's full swing but it's maybe 1/32nd of an inch of play. CEL has stayed off for three weeks and over 300 miles.

jcbrx8

Excellent thread. Removed, cleaned, & reinstalled my SSV valve earlier this year. It cleared my P2070 CEL..., but it returned after a few months. After confirming the solenoid, actuator, & valve were all operating properly, the likely culprits were the limit switch, connectors, or PCM harness. After reading this thread tested the bump lever to limit switch interplay, and discovered the same: insufficient lever throw to "close" the switch. I pulled the valve / switch assembly, removed the switch, over drilled the switch mounting holes, and reassembled the lot. CEL is cleared. $0 cost repair. 134k miles and spinning like a top. :-). Thanks again to all on the forum for sharing the knowledge.