Alexp08

ok so ive just want to start by saying, i searched the forums and found a couple threads on this but none seemed to help.
Next i was driving casually and stopped at work to talk to my boss 30mins later when i went out and started up my car the light was on, so i came home and plugged in the scan tool and it came up with p2004 (Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1 ) i read some stuff on line and someone said it could be a vacuum hose. much to my suprise when i poped the hood there was a vacuum hose just kinda hanging out, not connected to anything. so im thinking thats it. now my question would be were do i plug that back into, im new to the rotary engine so pics would be awesome.
p.s. the hose is about 12inch, and i didnt notice any lose of power

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

P2004 is for the APV which uses a stepper motor to control the valves.
Its not vacuum assisted as the others are.
There are many threads on this topic (many of which I was involved in) so I know they are out there and are extremely helpful.
Start by reading this thread then search for 'APV' related issues if you care to:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=p2004

Now this line that you found disconnected could be anything (again... doesn't pertain to your P2004 code) so we'll need a pic of this line so we know what you're seeing.

Alexp08

the thread you sent me to, i didnt find that when i searched lol but liuke i said the hose was just laying around near the battery box

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

LOL... I was hoping to see the hose in the car, where it was at when and how you found it.
But if it was near the battery box, it could have been used on the coolant overflow fitting to extend below the radiator.
It would have been between the coolant reservoir and the battery box.

Alexp08

well lol my dad was with me and he just kinda picked it up and showed it to me but lol your prop right cause thats were it was

anyways just an update i was reading that thread and found this
just wanted to say, this dose not pertain to me.

but as far as driving the car, can i still or would it be better to just let it sit till i figure it out

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

You'll be fine driving it.... in fact, driving it would probably help.
The APV opens at 6250 RPM, so it'll be nice to take the car out for nice drive and "race" it through the RPMs so the valves can cycle.
Also, the valves cycle everytime you shut the car off to help clear build-up... so you can cycle the key to 'ACC' and 'OFF' a few times to cycle them too.
Disconnecting the battery for ~10min will turn the CEL off, or you can wait for a couple drive cycles and it should turn off as long as the "problem" code doesn't return.

Alexp08

well i jut finished reading that thread, sorry to make yopu answer a question twice about driving the car around, but ill do that and cycle the key and disconnect the battery and ill post back here if i find anything. Thanks!

77mjd

Mazda better be doing something with the 16x to address all these carbon buildup issues people are having. While some buildup is natural, we know (and Mazda knows) it is excessive with this engine and is causing major problems for some. I think stuff like the APV and SSV should have lifetime waranties on them.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

^^ "a redline a day keeps the carbon away"

Alexp08

Well it went off, I didn't get a chance to do anything you said but when I got in to go to work I started it up and the cel was gone

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

If the "problem" doesn't return after two drive cycles, the PCM determines that there is no longer a fault and turns off the CEL.
Doesn't mean it won't come back... just "race" it a couple times every drive like I explained above to keep the valves cycling.

Alexp08

Ok well I went to get food while I was at work and I started up my car and it was back on

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

a "drive cycle" is bringing the engine up to normal op temp, then allowing to FULLY cool down. The next "cycle" is starting and bringing back up to op temps...

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

It honestly is more involved than that.
You can't just turn the car on, let it sit idle until it "warms up", then wait for it to cool down and call it a drive cycle.
Other various conditions need to be met while you're driving so other monitoring devices can perform/gather the proper data to determine if everything is within tolerance.
I'm sure you didn't mean for him to just turn the car on/off... but I wanted to explain further in case someone else didn't fully understand.

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

Absolutely! My bad. I thought that was implied... thanks

greengrenadez

Hey Alexp, i was hoping to know what your engine symptoms were. I've been having some issues with my 2004 RX8 and reading and searching keeps telling me that my problem is in the intake, particularly the SSV. And, not sure if my skills are good enough for: http://www.vimeo.com/7093611

My symptoms are:

1. Really bad fuel economy (like 70 miles to a half tank)!
2. Harley Davidson style idling (except when A/C is on, it stalls)
3. engine is extremely hot
4. a weird smell coming in the cabin and when just turned off, in garage

I know the p0301 is misfire in cyl 1 which is either coils or plugs (I replaced plugs and coils are ordered). p2259 I have know idea.

Any help anyone can give would be greatly appreciated. I can't afford the gas anymore.

Thanks in Advance

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

greengrenadez- After a good drive, look at the cat and see if its glowing.

greengrenadez

I did that last night. The console was really hot after a 30 mile ride (which consumed over a quarter of a tank of gas). I got out and looked under at the CAT and it was not from what I could see. What's that mean? Any other suggestions?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Even though it wasn't glowing, still might be a good idea to remove the cat and see if the honeycomb material is broken apart.

greengrenadez

will the actually effect idle and fuel economy? I sure appreciate your quick responses.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Yes.
The description of your problem is very similar to a clogged cat.
Only 5 bolts and a few minutes of your time... so why not rule that out.

greengrenadez

I sure will! Just clean it or replace it?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

There is no "cleaning" it if the material is broken apart.
The cat is covered under warranty for 8yr/80K miles.
If you're outside of the warranty, you can punch out the material making it a loud (and smelly) straight pipe or look into alternatives (OEM, high flow, mid-pipe).
But lets start with one thing at a time and see if the cat really is the problem.

greengrenadez

Ok, thank you. I will crawl under there first thing in the AM and report back. Again, thank you.

greengrenadez

Oh and by CAT you do mean the catalytic converter, right?