cavemancan

UPDATE:

3/2010 - Oil leak is repaired and I know whats causing the coolant light
4/13/2010 - Talked to dealership...

PLEASE READ BELOW...

I am sure this issue is not a new one but I don't know if anyone has had all of these issues all at once. I am trying to get all these items fixed and I was hoping the knowlegable bunch around here could point me in the right direction so I don't have to waist TOO MUCH time hunting.

Mileage: 82, 000 miles
Year: 2005
Gear box: 6 speed manual

Mods:

- Greddy SP2 exhaust
- K&N air filter
- Koni shocks + Tein springs
- Removed engine cover
- BHR Yukon Coils + New Spark plugs

Note: I live by the motto: A red line a day keeps the carbon away!

Issues:

FIXED
1) I had an oil leak which I was told initially that it was coming from the oil pan. So I had a trusted mechanic look at it and fix it. It seems though theres another leak and the burnt oil smell is back haunting me.

Question: What are the most common oil leaks experienced? Please take in consideration that this started happening shortly before the coolant issue mentioned below.

To be fixed by replacing coolant overflow.
2)
- At first I got a coolant light durint sustained driving on the highway at 80+ mph. But not immediatly. I would drive for 1 hour then power off the car. Drive the car in town for a bit...Power off the car again. Then go home (1 hour drive). While going home, after 15 minutes of driving at 80+ mph, the coolant light would come on. If I slow down to 60 to 70 mph the light will turn off after approx. 15 seconds. I discovered that the coolant was SLIGHTLY low so I topped it off (some spilled out of the overflow after some [alot] hard driving which is everyday to be honest).
- The issue gets worse: The coolant light always comes on during the return trip from anywhere. Be it a 30 min drive or an hour drive. On my way home it comes on. I check the coolant and it's full. I am NOT having any overheating issues as far as I can tell...I DO NOT have any after market gauges or scan tools to verify this 100%. I only have the temp gauge that comes with the car. To make things worse the light comes on even as low as 65 mph now (usually at 75 to 80 though).

Question: Could this be my thermostat failing? Keep in mind the next issue I am going to explain.

PENDING

3) Now for the one that REALLY worries me. Let's say I decide to do some spirited driving...I NEVER DO THIS! I believe my right foot is about 50 lbs heavier then the left so don't yell at me...I have to go fast! Anyways, I floor it in first gear and it rev's perfectly to red line. I keep going in 2nd but it sounds a bit funny on the top end of the RPM range. In third is when you can really hear the issue. Past 6k rpm it sounds like the engine is breaking up...perhaps sputtering...I even heard someone say marbles in a can. I am not sure if I can say power loss...More like inconsistant power during this time.

Question: I realize this could be fuel related. Injectors? Fuel pump? I also heard someone mention something about Cavitation in the coolant system causing the marbles in a can sound. As well as a bad CAT. I need a good starting point to diagnose this issue. I don't want to replace all of these items if I don't have too.

Note: During the cooler weather this issue seems to have disappeared. I will be going on a 3.5 hr drive to Orlando today and I will know for certain if the colder weather has affected the noise coming from the engine. I will make sure to do some more spirited driving!

VOODOO8

For what it's worth, here are some answers:
1). It's time to get under the hood / under the car with a light and do some hunting. Oil could be dripping down on to the oil pan from other areas of the engine. It could also be blowing back to the pan from the oil coolers of the lines that feed the oil coolers. If there is too much oil sprayed around then clean first and then start looking for the source of the leak.

2). Car has enough mileage on it that there could be clogs in the radiator, problems with the water pump, or other. It could also just be that the sensor is going bad or the connections/harness are not making a full circuit or shorting out on something. First thing to do is spend a little on a scanner and check coolant temps or have a mechanic do it for you after you have run the car hard for a while. If your having overheat problems, that will take diagnostics in one direction. If you are not, that will take them down a different path.

3). See #2 above. If you are really having "marbles in a can" and you have an overheat problem then #2 could have caused #3. True "marbles in a can" usually indicates its time for a compression check. Your mileage is high enough, especially if your still running the original factory engine, for a compression check anyway if you haven't had one done recently. Search here to know what a compression check is all about before you have a dealership or other perform one so you make sure you get results that can be trusted and acted upon if needed. Since you have dropped in the BHR coil kit and plugs, check and make sure your plug wires are all properly seated on both the coils and the plugs. You may also have damaged a plug wire durig install and are getting intermittent spark. Search here for suggestions on how to test for spark strength, there are several methods depending on the equipment you have at your disposal.

Merry Christmas

cavemancan

Thank you verry much for the suggestions! I took the liberty of talking to Charles at BHR and here is what I discovered...

cavemancan

Thank you so much for replying! My brother is a master ASC certified tech and this is what he thinks without really looking too closly into the motor...

We opened the hood and the first thing we see is oil all over the front of the engine (where the pulley's are) so I assume the leak is in the front cover area.

- Oil leak + high rpm issue...my brother mentioned the oil leak seems to be coming from the front crank shaft seal and he suspects that this might have something to do with the break up at high RPM's. The reason he thinks this is during idle he is hearing a slight misfire. He said it could be possible that the crank positioning sensor is full of oil which could cause the misfire.

Either way we are going to buy two bottles of octane booster to help clean out the injectors a bit. This is what I suspected in the first place since I never did any maintenance on the injectors since I got the car. BTW...The high RPM issue happened BEFORE the BHR ignition was installed so this is not the issue. In fact it made the issue less obvious.

- Second discovery was one of the heater hoses going into the heater of the car has a bubble in it. My brother mentioned that it could have been installed incorrectly (which caused a pinch in the hose over time) and its now starting to bubble.

Tomorrow we're going to look for the hose and the seals for the front cover and we're going to replace them.

-------------------

You said:air separator (overflow) tank sensor...You mean the coolant overflow tank? If so I heard about that.

You said: "20 stomp" thing - What is that?

Also about the K+N...I don't have the intake. I only have the air filter but I assume your issues are related to the fact that K+N uses oil on the filters. I trust your judgement...If you say I should change it I will. Just not immediatly as I have to fix more pressing issues.

cavemancan

Plan for tomorrow:

- Purchase heater hose
- Purchase seals
- Purchase 2 bottles of octane booster

Plan for next month:

- Purchase Mazmart water pump and thermostat
- Get the BHR resonated midpipe



Oh...one more thing...MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!

cavemancan

2 out of 3 issues resolved!

So I have to say that Charles at BHR as been an increadible help during this ordeal! We talked about the issues mentioned above, together with my brother, and we all agreed what was causing the problem. Sure enough we were correct...

The oil leak: apparently this oil leak also caused my high RPM issues. The crank positioning sensor seal was bad. The leak was so bad that the oil was all over the crank positioning sensor which was raging havoc on my timing. My brother even pointed out the misfires at iddle. He said: do you see how the hood is shaking in an inconsistant fashion? That looks like it could be a misfire.

We removed the air, battery boxes, all the pulleys, and belts. Finally, we got to the crank and removing the bolt was interesting. Thanks to Charles he recommended removing the starter and placing a screw driver between the teeth of the flywheel to prevent the crank from spinning while we tried to remove the bolt. Keep in mind this sucker was torqued down at 180+ ft lbs. It took a lot of elbow grease to remove. All this to replace a $14 seal.

We got brake cleaner and went to town on the engine, sensor, belts, etc. The crank position sensor was BLACK! It was covered in oil. We also noticed the butterfly valve in the intake was all gunked up...Cleaned that. We slapped everything back together and Viola! She was iddling steady and no oil leak.

Charles also mentioned the 20 stomp method to recalibrate the crank postition sensor...I forgot to do this and the check engine light came on. So I powered off the car. Turned the ignition on (not the car) and 20 stomps later check engine light was gone. The car was driving great at this point but I also took the liberty of buying Chevron injector cleaner. Mixed it with a full tank of gas.

Surprising Results:

I normally average about 230 miles to a tank. After the oil leak fix I am averaging 281 miles. I probably could have squeezed out 300 miles out of this tank but I was driving the car like my foot weighed 50 lbs.

Pending:

Charles recommened checking the coolant overflow tank. Considering a TSB is out for the sensor going bad.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Just to clarify;

1) The Chevron suggestion was mentioned either directly to me or on this forum somewhere. It was said to be more expensive than most but quite effective. Thus, I cannot take credit for THAT particular suggestion.

2) I didn't say to use the flywheel teeth as there is too much risk of damaging them. What I suggested was to use a lever, bar, or something wedged in the pressure plate (somehow) as this will not slip when torque is applied to the front bolt. Easy and I used this methodology, very carefully, when we recently replaced Flashwing's front seal and it is too complicated to describe here. I don't want people to think we at BHR are a bunch of careless rednecks with these cars, just that we have a knack for using few tools to get the job done with no damage to the car/engine. Creative, indeed.

In any event, Chris, thank you very much for the enthusiastic story and for sharing your experience with all of us.

Mazurfer

Good job Ray!!!!!

OP............In terms of coolant sensor. Here's a thread I did, but it's rather lengthy.
Bottom line is that the sensors go bad. They progressively get worse just as you described.
They are integral to the tank, so you either have to.............

1.) Yank the tank out and flush it real good.
2.) Buy a new tank.
3.) Unplug it(to get rid of the light) and manually keep an eye on the level every couple of days.

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...32970#poststop

cavemancan

Actually that was my poor understanding of how to perform said methodology. My brother was the one doing all the dirty work and I believe he did just what you mentioned above. I was the monkey pulling on the wrench (bad joke) to break the bolt loose.

cavemancan

I've been needing a coolant flush anyway so I might just get it replaced. Maybe if I find a junked Rx8 with low miles...Hmmmm...

cavemancan

Well, the oil leak appears to be gone and the crank position sensor is clean but I'm still having an issue...

I think I'm pinging! I am hearing what sounds like a wood pecker with a metal beak or if someone were to have an automatic pellit gun and shoot a solid peice of iron. The sound doesn't always happen but it always causes a loss of power. On a cold night the car runs fantastic...great pick up but still with a hint of ping towards the higher gears (3rd - 6th). On a hot day its intermittant. It will either always ping above 5 k, under moderate to heavy foot load, or it will rev happy in first gear only then start to make noise after that.

On the really bad days it will make the noise in all gears and low revs. I get the feeling that air temp/humidity is playing a role here but I am no prefessional. I know enough to brake things faster...HEHEHEH!!!

Things done so far include cleaning the crank position sensor which eliviated the issue for a while...A can of Chevron octane boster/injector cleaner in the gas tank...crank position sensor reset (20 foot stomp technique).

Could a clogged up air filter cause this "INTERMITANT" issue? (I might buy a new one today)
Could injectors cause this "INTERMITANT" issue?
Could a dirty fuel filter cause this "INTERMITANT" issue?
Could a _______ cause this "INTERMITANT" issue? LOL!!

Whatever you guys can do I appreicate as always!

Mazurfer

All of your could questions could be answered............possibly.


Did anybody ask what octane you are running?

Another thing to notice is this. Try to notice on a warm day if it happens only when you are low on gas. Let's say about a 1/4 of a tank.....somewhere around there. This would be the fuel pump overheating, but it wouldn't begin to address the sound your getting, so don't put much weight on what I said here, just something to notice.

Also, are you sure your exhaust heat shield isn't rattling? This wouldn't cause a loss of power, but maybe you have two seperate issues? Just a thought.

One other thing I can think of is maybe you need to pull the CAT loose at the front(the bolts can be tough) and look inside and see if the honeycomb is still there or is breaking into little bits. This could actually cause all of the symptons you have described. YOu can get a look inside without taking it completely off, it's just a little bit of a pain to move it to one side to get a good look with a flashlight.


Anybody else??????

swoope

iTrader: (5)

likely fuel pump.

beers

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Check your LTFT and STFT with a scanner ( brother should have a CAN compatible scanner at work)

I would replace the fuel pump.....with *@K it is waiting to crap out if it hasn't already...cheap fix..and it replaces the built in filter as well

Check to see that nothing is lose...engine mounts etc...the knock sensor isn't much good at picking up knock...but it sure picks up other noises it thinks are knock

cavemancan

I'm running 93 octane...It happens at all fuel levels as far as I can remember.

Ironically, I've been feeling like I need to replace the CAT for sometime now. Not because I have a known valid reason...Only because I get a huntch its going bad. Good thing I'm on the list to get BHR's new midpipe!


I unfortunatly dont have a scan tool but your right I need to get one. I'm tired of all this what if bull! I need to know whats going on so I can act on it.

I do think it is fuel related though. Charles did mention to check the knock sensor and make sure its not loose but with the mileage I have I would definately see the fuel pump having issues.

Let me understand this though...if the knock sensor is loose it could essentially confuse vibration for knock? Therefore it saves the engine by reducing power? Makes sense to check for cheap fixes first. (Crosses fingers)

...for the time being I will start with the knock sensor and fuel pump...I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again gentlemen!

cavemancan

My car is in the shop! I hope all will be well but at the same time I hope the engine fails compression so I can get a freshly rebuilt one from Mazda. Well, either way fingers are crossed!

I will provide an update as soon as I get more information.

cavemancan

I got the results from the compression test...

PASSED...but not by much.

My mechanic mentioned that the threshold was 6.9 to 8.5 (below 6.9 would be poor compression). My engine scored a 7.0 which sucks in my opinion but it passed so no warantee.

He also mentioned that my new plugs (6 months old with low mileage) have a light brown coating on them and he is worried that the engine is running lean. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

Regards,

Chris

cavemancan

Spoke to Charles @ BHR and light brown is normal.

cavemancan

So I spoke to my rotary mechanic some more and he suggests that perhaps Mazda would consider warranteeing the motor for me considering it is clear in the print out that the motor is close to it's demise.

So I take his suggestion and bring it to Mazda. Mazda checks the cars computer before doing anything and performs a recal for power loss ($110 CHA CHING...Aren't recals supposed to be covered by the warantee?). Then proceeds to tell me I am experiencing misfires in both rotors...

Front: misfires in last 9 cycles
Rear: misfires in last 4 cycles

They also mention that the CAT is on it's way out and that the after market ignition (BHR kit) will need to be removed as well as the CAT replaced or else MNAO will not warrantee the engine. They think the misfires are being caused by the ignition system.

I think this is utter bull to be honest. Charles also mentioned the following thread where the CAT seemed to cause the same symptoms I was experiencing...

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aftermarket-performance-modifications-23/bhr-ignition-kit-experience-dealership-bhr-wins-193316/

These guys are fishing but I am humoring them. Before I do that though I want to prove they are wrong so this is what I will try to do...

1) Replace the CAT first and bring it back to my rotary mechanic and have him scan the computer to see if he see's any misfires.
2) Replace the coils back to stock and have my engine warantee'd (I hope).

Or if these don't work then I will make BHR happy with an engine rebuild early next year.

leeroy73

Hi, did you ever sort out the Pinging noise from the RX8? im having the same issue, and cant find an answer.


regards
leeroy

sethgarcia79

HI
i have a question. hopefully someone can help me with my problem I recently purchases a 2005 Mazda rx8 .and test drove it while testing hi rpm drove for 6 miles came to a stop their was smoke everywhere pull over open the hood found oil all over. the air intake under the hood from back of the
engine when I was at 80 mph other was misfiring what could it be. could it be my rear main seal.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Please re-read that. How could your air filter be misfiring? How does oil get all over the air filter at the front of the engine in the air box from a rear main seal within the transmission bellhousing?


Smoke everywhere was from the oil all over hot parts. Oil everywhere could be anything from an oil line corroding through and spraying to the dealer overfilling the oil drastically and it was spewing it back out under pressure.

In case it needs to be said:
Don't buy that car

sethgarcia79

no you misunderstood there nothing about a misfired of the intake. I said that there oil by the intake. and where my starter at the a lot of oil under it and I said that could be the rear seal cuz. The oil seems to come from back the engine

Cliffjumper126

Was the oil overfilled like RIWWP suggested?