kaurik311

Hey everyone ! So I am having the same problem as many other owners before me..
Had a check engine light on and needed it off in order to get emissions test. Code P0661. I learned here that I needed to check connectors, wiring, and possibly remove UIM to get to and inspect SSV Solenoid.

Removed UIM, found that I was not the first person to do this. I am not the original owner of this RX8. Whomever owned the car before me must have had this same problem and in there attempt to solve it broke the retaining clips off the VDI, and SSV Solenoids along with the plastic tube on the SSV solenoid where the Vacuum hose connects.

I inspected connectors and wiring for damage, found none. Repaired the vacuum connection and put everything back together. After a few drive cycles, the P0661 code has been cleared but then I got the P2259. So now the car is telling me to look into the secondary air injection system. I looked to see if maybe the vacuum hose had come off the AIR solenoid during re-installation of the UIM. It had not. I then searched these forums some more looking for ideas. After reading a few good threads I decided to remove the UIM again and this time I bought some electrical connector cleaner. Thoroughly cleaned the connectors. Removed all three Solenoids and thoroughly cleaned them. Then supplied them with 12v power to test if they are working. Each solenoid seems to be working properly. when power is supplied I can hear the valve changing positions inside and the airflow is redirected. I then checked the SSV and VDI actuators by hand to see if they moved freely and they do. I started thinking that maybe the broken clips could be causing a poor seal and creating a vacuum leak but the AIR solenoid is the only one that isn't broken so that can't be the cause.. At this point, I'm not sure what to do ???

I could throw parts at the car and hope it helps. But I'd rather not. I could put everything back together and hope that cleaning everything and carefully re-installing somehow fixes the problem causing the code. But I don't feel like I found and corrected a problem so I'm pretty sure putting everything back and driving will only get me right back to this point.. ANY IDEAS ? Anyone else ever fix or replace SSV get rid of P0661 only to get the P2259 ??

I have learned through my own research an interesting fact that I have not found on this forum.. It may be here, but I have not came across any threads with the info.. So, by now most rx8 owners know that the 3 solenoid valves are all the same, and expensive as hell. Everybody seems to get different prices from their local dealer but overall they are just expensive. Then everyone starts looking online and finds them cheaper. What I noticed is searching for an SSV solenoid really only gets you results within the RX8club site. Searching the part number though you find out that these are EGR Vacuum solenoids that are used on many different Mazdas. 626, 929, MPV etc.. Funny how a 95 MPV uses the same part, but has a different name and cheaper price. If you need to replace these solenoids you should definitely search EGR Solenoid for other Mazdas. Make sure the picture shows the exact part you have and match the part numbers before buying.

Whats really funny is you can also search Mitsubishi EGR Vacuum Solenoid and find this part. I know I'm not the only one that noticed right away the Mitsubishi logo on my SSV AIR & VDI solenoids..

j9fd3s

P0661 and P02259 are basically the same thing, just a different solenoid.

the FSM lists this as possible causes,

• AIR solenoid valve malfunction
• Connector or terminal malfunction
• Open circuit in wiring harness between main relay terminal C and AIR solenoid valve terminal A
• Short to GND in wiring harness between main relay terminal C and AIR solenoid valve terminal A
• Open circuit in wiring harness between AIR solenoid valve terminal B and PCM terminal 1O
• Short to GND in wiring harness between AIR solenoid valve terminal B and PCM terminal 1O
• PCM malfunction

the solenoid valve is KL01-18-741, msrp is $116.18. all three are the same, so if you move solenoids, and the code moves, then you can find the bad one.

kaurik311

the codes are only basically the same thing if the problem is in fact the solenoid. As stated in my post the solenoids have all been checked and I have no reason to believe they are causing the problem. I could understand the code changing if I had switched two solenoids, but they were re-installed in the same position they were in to begin with. As for wiring faults and shorts, the plugs and connectors have been checked. I have not looked into the groundwires, but I do not see how this would cause one code to clear and another to come up. I can swap solenoids around and see if it makes any difference but as i said, I am almost completely certain they were never changed from original position and they all tested fine.

foxyRoXy8

Happened to mine just yesterday.

Got the 0661 code a while back, swopped the SSV solenoid with the AIR solenoid valve and got the 2259 code.

Now I know for sure, that it's the solenoid valve which is acting up and not the rest of the wiring or something else.

stash588

Hey guys, I know this thread is a little old but I figured I would just throw this out there as I just had the same problem. Checked out the dealership who wanted to charge me 130 for the solenoid. I called up autozone and they have a duralast solenoid for around 55 with a lifetime warranty. Is there any reason not to grab the duralast one given its lifetime warranty and if it fails you can just trade it out for another?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

If you're sure there's no fine print in the warranty like "defects in workmanship".
Used to be any kind of electronic components weren't, but other than coils, I haven't bought any type of electrical part in a long time.
I use AdvanceAuto for my aftermarket parts.

Hemp6473

I was getting this code too, however I got an oil catch can and installed it since the 2004 and 2005 didn't come with one, I also too it apart and cleaned them and it cleared up the code all together.

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

The SSV is very prone to carbon buildup and should be removed and cleaned. They like to stick. When you do, make sure to apply some grease to the bearing surface so that the SSV can rotate without binding. The thermostat housing will also have to be removed in order to remove the SSV so be sure to pick up a new gasket for it and the SSV.

_alltheseprettylights_

I have a p2259 code. Do I have to order the specific top air solenoid? Or could I get a ssv or vdi solenoid to replace the air solenoid? I read that you could swap them out to figure out the source, so im assuming they are all the same solenoid, just has different purposes. And I also read that the erg solenoid is the same part? Is this true?
My car is being kinda sluggish. Not as much as a response when you hit the gas hard. And the only thing that's wrong with it as far as I know is my cracked radiator (which is getting fixed as I type this) and the p2259 code. Could the air solenoid effect my cars performance? Only thing I've found on the air solenoid is that it only kicks on when the car is warming up. Which im not to sure on....

stash588

I had this same code when I first got my 8, best way to check if it's the solenoid is to switch them (yes they are interchangeable) if it pops a separate code, then the solenoid is bad. Though I don't think it causes serious problems besides the whining sound near your air pump, I quickly changed it out at autozone. I read the serials on the new one and the old ones and they matched. I know others have gone to advance/o'reily's but at this point they should all basically be rebranded Mitsubishi oem solenoids. The duralast I got at autozone has a lifetime warranty. I think it was about 20 bucks or so. Most of the info is in this thread already. Good luck!

stash588

Just to add, when the solenoid went, I had just rebuild the engine on a rolling shell that I bought, and from what I felt, it wasn't acting sluggish, so as far as I know, your power problems don't stem from the solenoid. Pretty sure the air solenoid has to do with emissions mainly, though don't hold me to that. I'd check your compression, as well as the cat.

_alltheseprettylights_

Yea I've considered the cat. I just replaced it on my way to denver last June (got stuck in Goodland kansas for 2 days with it lol) but I just has the plugs Leads and coil packs replaced like 4 months ago. And he said they were absolutely horrible looking when he pulled the plugs. So im thinking if it is the cat, that my plugs may have ruined my new cat.

Trex87

Sorry to revive this thread but did you ever find the problem? I have the same one.. replaced air solenoid after p2259 popped up... the cel came up again. Connections look fine, I'm gonna swap the solenoids to see if maybe the new solenoid is also bad, which is unlikely.

greengrenadez

Hey guys. First off thanks for the help over the years, I've been a silent explorer thru this wealth of info that has kept my RX8 running. Only now do I have a problem that I cannot find the solution for. I was doing maintenance (160k on 2004 RX8), cleaning SSV and replacing the 3 solenoids in the back.

Upon inspection before installing new solenoids, I noticed wire broken from connector on the VDI solenoid connector. (picture attached)

How on earth should I go about fixing this? Its in a such a tight place with no play in the wire. I figure I should go ahead and snip off the blue wire and repair the connector with 2 new wires coming from the connector and then an inline coupler to the harness wires. Is this a practical solution?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

You have to remove the UIM, then you'll have better access to it.

Yes.

greengrenadez

I did remove it. I see it clearly. Just don't know how to repair the wiring connector properly. Any ideas?

NotAPreppie

To do it "right" you'll have to find some way of non-destructively removing the copper pin from the plastic connector and re-crimping it (or better yet, soldering it) back onto the end of the wire. Then re-insert the pin back into the connector.

One or more tools similar to a dental pick will probably be necessary to release the pin.