Notices
Series I Trouble Shooting This is the place to learn more about or discuss any issues you're having with your RX-8

My Rx8 is dying at stop lights, but only after running on the highway

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rate Thread
 
Old 06-16-2009, 12:19 AM
  #26  
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
 
Jon316G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Streetsboro, OH
Posts: 6,779
Likes: 0
Received 44 Likes on 33 Posts
Originally Posted by nycgps
SSV was not the cause.
it wouldn't cause your motor to stall.
I would have to disagree with this statement.
I worked on a local's car and he constantly stalled and it ended up being a stuck SSV valve.
His was actually stuck closed and I believe it only generated a CEL for SSV not open/closed once.
Since then, he has not encountered the stalling issue.

Here is that thread to refresh memories (or if you're bored and want to read):
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/rpm-dropping-%3D-engine-stalling-162200/
Its not until the 2nd page of that thread that I figured it out and pics were posted.

Now... problem that the OP described doesn't sound like what we encountered, but you can easily test out the valves to rule them out.

Last edited by Jon316G; 06-16-2009 at 12:21 AM.
Old 06-16-2009, 12:28 AM
  #27  
Tea?
iTrader: (1)
 
yokohamaboi's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: shit hole south TX
Posts: 661
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by teknics
yea start at basics, wires plugs coils and see how it goes.

*some* valvoline is bleh, i personally use their VR1 oils in my rotaries, seems to reduce carbon when i tear them down.

if the above doesnt improve anything we can go from there, dont wanna go wasting all my breath in one post

kevin.
What weight of oil do you reccomend?
Old 06-20-2009, 01:58 PM
  #28  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Fast Eddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
OK...I just ordered new plugs.... no local parts store carried them in stock....... sorry for the stupid question, but it does just need 4 right???? the guy at the store told me that his system showed that it needed 4 ea of the the trailing and leading plugs for a total of 8...... please tell me that he was wrong and I'm right...... again, sorry for the stupid question.
Old 06-20-2009, 02:03 PM
  #29  
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
 
dannobre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Smallville
Posts: 13,718
Received 334 Likes on 289 Posts
2 leading and 2 trailing..total 4

Parts guy is a goof
Old 06-20-2009, 02:21 PM
  #30  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Fast Eddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you, that's what I thought...
Old 06-23-2009, 08:32 AM
  #31  
10,000 Revs in the Air!
 
EinHeisserSchrei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tipperary, Ireland
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Fast Eddy
Wouldn't a sticky seal, compression problem, or Throttle body sensor problem trip an electronic code and illuminate the check engine light?

Valvoline was the only non-synthetic 5 20 I could find......what do you use?
You should be using 5W30!!!
Old 06-23-2009, 08:43 AM
  #32  
Registered
 
tlniec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
From the 'well, that's disappointing' department:

Recently, I was experiencing lack of power and low/rough idle, with the engine occasionally dying at stoplights/stop signs. I took a trip to the dealership and had the PCM reflash (part of MSP16) applied and the coils/plugs/wires replaced. All seemed well - the engine felt about right again, the car was able to idle while stopped without dying, etc - for about a week.

Last night, my wife told me that while she was driving home, the car seemed to lack power again. And it was idling low/rough while stopped. And, on at least one occasion it died on her, and was VERY resistant to start back up. Now, it was about 90° out yesterday... but I seem to remember when we first bought the car, in August 2005, it was about that hot and the car ran fine.

So... any ideas what I'm up against? Lack of power, poor idle, sometimes dying while stopped. Especially bad at high temperatures. Coils/plugs/wires have JUST been replaced and PCM software flashed to the latest version. I haven't tried looking at the catalytic converter yet, but I thought that would be something the dealership would do when troubleshooting/repairing a car with loss of power...
Old 06-23-2009, 09:07 AM
  #33  
Almost boosted
iTrader: (3)
 
czar's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
dealerships can be a pita to get anything done with. Just go in tell them you feel power loss.

they will usaly use some seafoam like stuff to clean the engine first then compression test. but getting them to perform that last compression test can be a royal pain at times. Why i bought the rotary compression tester tool from twisted rotary
Old 06-26-2009, 08:34 AM
  #34  
Registered
 
tlniec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
You're right about that.
As it turns out, when I was there a little while back, they didn't replace ALL the coils, just the one(s) that had logged an error code. So the trouble I experienced recently was determined to be misfires - AGAIN. This time, at least they had a coil in stock, so they were able to replace it while I waited. Apparently, for warranty replacement of coils, Mazda doesn't just authorize replacement of the whole set. They have to independently approve replacement of each coil based on error codes.

Now that makes me curious about how these errors are logged. I wonder if there is a separate field for misfires on Rotor 1 leading/Rotor 1 trailing/Rotor 2 leading/Rotor 2 trailing? Or is there just a general misfire field that gets populated with the name of the offending coil? I hope it's the former. If not, I'm afraid that in another week, I'm going to start seeing misfire codes on ANOTHER coil and have to go back to the dealership AGAIN.
Old 06-26-2009, 08:41 AM
  #35  
Almost boosted
iTrader: (3)
 
czar's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 708
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
ehhh? they threw on all new coils and all new spark plugs along with wires, on my motor before they finally declared the motor gone. That motor got better mpg then my new one
Old 06-26-2009, 11:05 AM
  #36  
10,000 Revs in the Air!
 
EinHeisserSchrei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tipperary, Ireland
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by tlniec
You're right about that.
As it turns out, when I was there a little while back, they didn't replace ALL the coils, just the one(s) that had logged an error code. So the trouble I experienced recently was determined to be misfires - AGAIN. This time, at least they had a coil in stock, so they were able to replace it while I waited. Apparently, for warranty replacement of coils, Mazda doesn't just authorize replacement of the whole set. They have to independently approve replacement of each coil based on error codes.

Now that makes me curious about how these errors are logged. I wonder if there is a separate field for misfires on Rotor 1 leading/Rotor 1 trailing/Rotor 2 leading/Rotor 2 trailing? Or is there just a general misfire field that gets populated with the name of the offending coil? I hope it's the former. If not, I'm afraid that in another week, I'm going to start seeing misfire codes on ANOTHER coil and have to go back to the dealership AGAIN.

Check the spark plugs too. If one is cracked it would bring up a code for the ignition coils, not the plugs themselves
Old 10-23-2010, 06:16 PM
  #37  
Stuck in a love triangle
 
JeRKy 8 Owner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 2,201
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
My 8 was having the exact same problems as this guy's and it ended up qualifying for a new/remanufactured engine. 04 MT with 70k miles...never had any mods, oil changes every 3k miles and always followed maintenance schedule. Put in brand new coils plugs maf cleaner after problem started occurring but none of that did anything to help the situation...cat was fine too and was not clogged, and worst of all there were never any CELs.

The engine never died when highway speeds were kept at 60 mph or lower...but driving it above 65 for more than a few minutes was a guarantee that it would stall as soon as it had to be stopped and/or sent back to idle RPM range. After stalling out, I usually had to wait about 10 - 15 seconds before cranking it back up, but once turning it back on again it was fine. Other than this issue, the car had no other problems and had plenty of power too...did not feel sluggish or slow anywhere when accelerating, and there were no rough idle issues.

Dealer performed several diagnostics (all of which the car either passed or did not solve problem) including compression test, intake valve cleaning for possible carbon, intake manifold inspection, vacuum test...but as far as I know source of problem was never discovered or resolved...plus I was told my engine was still putting up strong compression numbers...but I ended up with a new engine anyway.
Old 10-24-2010, 01:55 PM
  #38  
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
TQCuong3th's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: utica- new york
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Fast Eddy
First off, thanks to everyone that has shared info on this website over the past few years. This is my first post, but I have benefited very much from reading other posts since buying my RX8 3 years ago.

My 05 currently has about 56k miles and is starting to give me problems. Over the last 2 weeks, it has died on me 4 times....at which time it is immediately flooded. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes, it will then start right back up. The 4 times it has done this have all been after driving on the interstate at 70-80mph.....then when I get off the interstate and come to a stop it dies.....but, not all the time. Sometimes, it's my very first stop.....sometimes it's my 3rd or 4th stop, and sometimes not at all. Once, it actually stopped fine, idled for a while, and then died when I pressed the gas to begin going again.......It has never done it after simply driving around town at lower speeds. My check engine light is never coming on, so there doesn't appear to be any sensors picking anything up.

The only other problem I've had with the car since buying it was about a year ago. The check engine light came on and the code indicated a sticking valve. My local Mazda dealer yanked the engine and replaced the intake manifold...luckily under the warranty.

Thanks in advance for any help that anyone might have!
i have the same problem , just changed my coil got a little better but the enginr get hot really quick , let me know how u did on ur ? so i can fix mine
Old 11-23-2010, 04:16 AM
  #39  
Registered User
 
sanderxozf4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
[/quote]This is what I'm looking for, It's comprehensive, Thanks for your explanation

[quote=Fast Eddy;3056148]The only major service it's had other than regular oil changes etc is the intake manifold replacement I already mentioned. As far as type of driving goes....mostly short in town trips. I only use premium fuel, usually from Shell. I use non synthetic Valvoline oil. Yes, it has been flooded before, due to not adequately being warmed up before shutting off.....but that hasn't happened in over a year. It has never been fully redlined, but close. I usually let it run up to 8000 rpm almost daily when going through 2nd and 3rd gears as I enter the interstate on ramp, but I never keep it in the higher rpm ranges for long........
Old 11-23-2010, 08:31 AM
  #40  
Registered User
 
stx0174's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i have the same problem with my 8 (05 AT)....the firt time i took it to dealer they said it was my battery..the problem is till happening. took it back they changed the plugs start the car a bunch of whitr smoke came out, left it wrom to normal temp n it went away..got home try to start it back aging after a few mins no juice. and after that the cel came on took it back they did what they had to do and now they tell me is my engine.
Old 11-23-2010, 12:54 PM
  #41  
Stuck in a love triangle
 
JeRKy 8 Owner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 2,201
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Welcome to the new engine club
Old 12-14-2010, 09:34 PM
  #42  
Registered User
 
Romiluss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: northglenn co.
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hello everyone im new to the club! today was the first time my car died out geting off the highway..... so is the only answer to get a new engine ? also now i have a small whistling sound when i go from cruising speed to slight acceleration .... i have intake no cat 05 with 37000 miles

Last edited by Romiluss; 12-14-2010 at 09:47 PM. Reason: forgot something
Old 12-14-2010, 10:14 PM
  #43  
Registered
iTrader: (4)
 
alnielsen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Posts: 12,255
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by Romiluss
Hello everyone im new to the club! today was the first time my car died out geting off the highway..... so is the only answer to get a new engine ? also now i have a small whistling sound when i go from cruising speed to slight acceleration .... i have intake no cat 05 with 37000 miles
You don't necessarily have a engine problem. The whistling you hear could be air leaking from the intake or a vacuum hose. Check those first and make sure everything is connected properly.
Old 12-14-2010, 10:32 PM
  #44  
Registered User
 
Romiluss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: northglenn co.
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
searched every hose i could see then have the wife rev and hold then rev higher its coming from the air filter
Old 12-14-2010, 10:41 PM
  #45  
Registered
iTrader: (4)
 
alnielsen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Posts: 12,255
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Do you have the OEM air box on the car? Also, there is a vacuum line that runs underneath the airbox that goes to the VFAD in front of the airbox (behind the front bumper cover).
Old 12-14-2010, 10:44 PM
  #46  
Registered
iTrader: (4)
 
alnielsen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Posts: 12,255
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
I knew it was out there so I did a search and came up with a diagram of all the vacuum lines.

Old 12-14-2010, 11:43 PM
  #47  
Registered User
 
Romiluss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: northglenn co.
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by alnielsen
Do you have the OEM air box on the car? Also, there is a vacuum line that runs underneath the airbox that goes to the VFAD in front of the airbox (behind the front bumper cover).
only the bottom of it and that line is connected
Old 06-21-2012, 07:54 PM
  #48  
Registered User
 
deusxmachina's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Same thing happened to me today. After about 2 hr. of good driving on the high way. Started going up a hill and it just died. would not start ether. Then after about 15 started ran about 1 mile then died again. I waited about 40 mins started it up and ran fine for the rest of the trip. do the coils and jazz hope my engine is not blown.
Old 08-04-2012, 10:52 AM
  #49  
Registered User
 
bi55jh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just had same issue. Turned out to be a cracked fitting on air intake hose. it was letting air come in after the sensor and unable to adjust gas to air therefore running too lean. Changed plugs due to mileage but mechanic felt certain the fitting was causing the stall after heating engine up the fitting crack was expanding letting in more air. Track air system for issues and clean maf sensor but be careful. Sensor is very fragile.
Old 04-15-2015, 06:12 PM
  #50  
New Member
 
Royboy96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Having similar problems but different story...

The Facts:

Ive got an 04 rx8 and everything was grand last summer… in november i started it cold and turned it off quickly realizing i had barely any gas to get to school and jumped in my other car. realized right then i mad a mistake. didn't check on it for a few days and it sat all winter. when it warmed back up i was reading previous problems on the forum about stalling at red lights. it happened once in september but started right up after cranking it 5 times. never had a problem with that for the next 2 months till i flooded the engine in november. i tried deflooding it but wouldn't work. then saw it could be a clogged cat and flooded engine. first i installed new coil packs, leads, and spark plugs, then ended up cutting the cat and straight piping it (o2 sensor still in the car). after an 1-2 hours of doing the deflood procedure it started up. drove to the nearest gas station and filled it up. then as i felt like i fixed it after a week it would stall on me at stops and seems like it flooded a bit, but was able to start within 10-15 tries and it keeps doing that. after hitting numerous pot holes ( live in michigan) the car started running perfectly for 3 weeks took a long road trip and when i got back in town i started having the problem again after filling up without using premium. sometimes when I'm at a stop the rpm gauge bobs up and down between 1000-500 rpms and ill quick slam on the bass and get my *** moving before it stalls. but today i was at low rpms pulling into a parking lot and it just died on me thought it was as usual and just needed to deflood it but after multiply tries no luck. i kinda felt like it was the fuel pump and bought one and was going to install it tomorrow but then this happened.


sorry about all the detail but i feel like its the best way for you guys to give good advice, what i wanna know is if you think it really is the fuel pump or something else? i know about the low compression issues with the rotary engines but i really don't think thats the problem. getting kinda worried though and thinking about the worst thing possible so i just want your honest opinions… thanks guys!


You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: My Rx8 is dying at stop lights, but only after running on the highway



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:05 AM.