Whiterat

Hi Guys and gals,

I've had my 8 for around a month now (loving it!) however it does misfire every now and then and also has long crank times.

When the car is warm and I try to start it (usually if I pop into a shop / fill with fuel) it is next to impossible to start.

First thing in the morning it probably takes 3 - 4 cranks (not ideal but I can live with it) and when its warm it takes 10+ (to the point the battery is starting to drain).

Today I ended up starting it in gear just to get it to go.

It's a 2004 231bhp manual with 36k on it.

The service docs are sketchy.. They are all main dealer (not local) but the docs are missing dates / mileage (very sloppy).

Its had its 3rd service (sparks) but I assume this was done on its 3rd year as its not done 37.5k yet.

As far as I know its been flooded twice prior to me owning it.

So...

1. Is the cranking issue likely to be the incredibly weak starter or could it be something more serious?

2. With regard to the misfires, presume sparks/coils/wires should be checked/replaced?

Thanks all

Cf05

Yea there are a ton of threads on the issue it sounds like you need new coils/wires/sparks, I'm having the same problems with my car sans the ridiculous amount of time to get her started, about to put my order in for the BHR ignition system you should look into it.

REsuperD

is the check engine light on?

on very cold days long crank isn't abnormal, i think. but "next to impossible to start" or cranking until the battery almost dies doesn't sound normal

sebarx8

iTrader: (4)

first chage the sparks ,next coils,

nate340

first do a compression test because spending money replacing parts on a bad engine is useless.
since your having hard starts cold and warm its probably a low compression engine. when and if your compression is fine then replace plugs coils wires.

id put good money on replacing the engine.

Flashwing

Yep, this is good advice.

Whiterat

Thanks for all the replies!

I have the car booked in tomorrow PM for a compression test. (Fingers crossed it will be ok!)

Having never dealt with a Mazda main dealer, is there anything in particular I should watch out for? (i.e them trying to sell me things I really don't need)

AJ's Shinka

Buy one of these Compression tester A compression test cost about $100 bucks you can have this thing paid off in three tests.

Whiterat

Sat at the dealer now...not the best results.
Rear rotor is about 6.9 front is about 5.8 (Will upload full info later)

They reckon a new starter will push it up a bit, also could be coils.

And I've just had to pay for a new front anti roll bar link

bse50

Charles has probably dealt with more european guys with similar starting problems than most of us, i would trust his word.

You're being a victim of the infamous european rotary knowledge so don't worry and don't take what the stealership says for granted.
A lot of compression recovery procedures that are common in the US are barely known here, let alone their application...

Since your car is a 2004 i would ask to the dealer what PCM flash it is running on at the moment, bad compression can be related to some different things that don't lead to an engine replacement.

How many kms do you do before adding oil? 1kg every 1500\3000km is around the norm, however several 2004 came with a poorly calibrated OMP map from the factory and some dealership never updated the PCM flashes.

How was your car driven before your purchase? A lot of stop and go traffic could lead to carbon build-up, a known problem for rotaries (hence the "drive it like you stole it...)

@ what rpms was the compression checked for each rotor? you must know that in order to interpret the graph correctly.

Btw i'm shooting you a pm right now

Cheers,

Giorgio

Whiterat

Thanks for all the replies guys.

Unfortunately (certainly for now) a new engine is out of the question.
Mazda doesn't see fit to offer its lengthy warranty to those across the pond from yourselves.

A rebuild is going to cost £2500 GBP + (Currently $4,033 USD) - Not so attractive on a car worth £6500.

Despite my love for this excellent car...I am now kicking myself for not going to my 2nd choice (Seat Leon)....

bse50:
I asked them today to check what version it was running and what recalls had been done but they wanted to close on time...

I check / add oil every other fill up and depending on how heavily I 'nail' it that could be between ~600km > 1000km and it is mazda dexelia ultra 5w-30.

The last owner initially purchased the car as a 'weekend car' but towards the last few months or so it was wracking up 800km a week on motorways (thus the need to sell....not the most economical car). Prior to that I really don't know. The first 3 services were main dealer and by the 2nd service it had only done 9k.

Looking at the sheet, I think they buggered up the test on the rear rotor because although the graph is there, there is no other data. The front rotor tested at 209rpm (Presumably due to the standard starter?)

bse50

Please reply to the questions i made!

Whiterat

Sorry I noticed as soon as I posted that I hadn't! Updated ^

Whiterat

So before I get ready to sell this, is there anything it *could* be besides a failed tip/seal ?

Bearing in mind I have the original 2004 battery/starter and the sparks havent been changed for 20k and seemingly (the history is sketchy) the coils are originals.

FrankTome89

honest to god sounds like a bunk coil to me pull them out (10 Minutes work) and run a voltmeter on them however i suggest bhr ignition kit if this is the route ur gonna take i got it and im i am so pleased with it, im a helpless romantic and charles at bhr is my mistress