losing brake fluid...
04-29-2009, 09:43 PM
#1
losing brake fluid...
Im going to sound like a noob for a bit..
so 2 things have happened since I last filled and bled my brake fluid 4k ago.
1. My clutch pedal snapped off I got it fixed, but now has a shorter engagement point.. That means its pushing more fluid becuase of the distance from the pin to the master cylinder. it's hard to explain but it works in my head.
2. my brake pads are very close to metal on metal
I cannot see any noticeable leaks I am stumped...
Over the past month my brake fluid went from 2 cm below max to right at the min line..
Pressure is great across the board
.
Any Ideas thoughts etc?
so 2 things have happened since I last filled and bled my brake fluid 4k ago.
1. My clutch pedal snapped off I got it fixed, but now has a shorter engagement point.. That means its pushing more fluid becuase of the distance from the pin to the master cylinder. it's hard to explain but it works in my head.
2. my brake pads are very close to metal on metal
I cannot see any noticeable leaks I am stumped...
Over the past month my brake fluid went from 2 cm below max to right at the min line..
Pressure is great across the board
.Any Ideas thoughts etc?
04-29-2009, 09:47 PM
#3
If you have a leak,,,
Your just going to have to crawl around till you find it. Check all your Brake calipers. And look around the brake Master Cyl and Clutch Master and Slave Cyl's.
You might look under the car at the brake lines to make sure on of them isn't leaking.
Your just going to have to crawl around till you find it. Check all your Brake calipers. And look around the brake Master Cyl and Clutch Master and Slave Cyl's.
You might look under the car at the brake lines to make sure on of them isn't leaking.
04-29-2009, 10:06 PM
#7
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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Well.............if no lift available, then i'd pop off a wheel at a time, have someone pump the brakes, and take a look. Especially at the bleeder screws......you may have a leaker.
04-29-2009, 10:22 PM
#8
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^^^ what he said!
one wheel at time, two man job.
Adjust the clutch pedal, there's intructions around here somewhere.
one wheel at time, two man job.
Adjust the clutch pedal, there's intructions around here somewhere.
04-30-2009, 07:22 AM
#10
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
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So you think you know where it is huh? Oh no.....that don't sound good.
I know yours can't be the same, but I just had to replace an 8 foot long piece of brake line in my beater 1994 Rodeo...............it actually wasn't that bad, but was a bitch to get it in there.
I'm guessing you think it might be the master cylinder?????
I know yours can't be the same, but I just had to replace an 8 foot long piece of brake line in my beater 1994 Rodeo...............it actually wasn't that bad, but was a bitch to get it in there.
I'm guessing you think it might be the master cylinder?????
04-30-2009, 11:31 AM
#11
no I'm thinking its the hard line that could be loose do to a stripped nut after a SS line install... We tightened it as much as possible I did some heavy braking and check the line again.. Maybe it finally gave out.
I will check today. I also need to check the undercarriage I scraped something fierce on a bump the other day.
I will check today. I also need to check the undercarriage I scraped something fierce on a bump the other day.
04-30-2009, 03:29 PM
#12
Lubricious
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Usually a leak means that air gets into the system, and you would experience a spongy brake pedal or clutch pedal or both.
Brake wear will lower the level in the resevoir, as the caliper pistons expand to keep the pads against the rotors. You mention the brakes are nearly worn out. That could account for the difference if you've had a lot of brake wear in the last few months.
Add fluid to raise it back to max and keep a close eye on it, or better yet deal with the brake pads. Remember if you put new pads on, to be careful to prevent overflow of the resevoir as the caliper pistons are backed out.
Brake wear will lower the level in the resevoir, as the caliper pistons expand to keep the pads against the rotors. You mention the brakes are nearly worn out. That could account for the difference if you've had a lot of brake wear in the last few months.
Add fluid to raise it back to max and keep a close eye on it, or better yet deal with the brake pads. Remember if you put new pads on, to be careful to prevent overflow of the resevoir as the caliper pistons are backed out.
04-30-2009, 03:34 PM
#13
Usually a leak means that air gets into the system, and you would experience a spongy brake pedal or clutch pedal or both.
Brake wear will lower the level in the resevoir, as the caliper pistons expand to keep the pads against the rotors. You mention the brakes are nearly worn out. That could account for the difference if you've had a lot of brake wear in the last few months.
Add fluid to raise it back to max and keep a close eye on it, or better yet deal with the brake pads. Remember if you put new pads on, to be careful to prevent overflow of the resevoir as the caliper pistons are backed out.
Brake wear will lower the level in the resevoir, as the caliper pistons expand to keep the pads against the rotors. You mention the brakes are nearly worn out. That could account for the difference if you've had a lot of brake wear in the last few months.
Add fluid to raise it back to max and keep a close eye on it, or better yet deal with the brake pads. Remember if you put new pads on, to be careful to prevent overflow of the resevoir as the caliper pistons are backed out.
But yea I think the best thing for me to do is top off the fluid and monitor it.
now I just need to find a local shop that has some ATE or Motul...
Thanks for the help guys I'll return with pics or info.
04-30-2009, 04:46 PM
#14
Usually a leak means that air gets into the system, and you would experience a spongy brake pedal or clutch pedal or both.
Brake wear will lower the level in the resevoir, as the caliper pistons expand to keep the pads against the rotors. You mention the brakes are nearly worn out. That could account for the difference if you've had a lot of brake wear in the last few months.
Add fluid to raise it back to max and keep a close eye on it, or better yet deal with the brake pads. Remember if you put new pads on, to be careful to prevent overflow of the resevoir as the caliper pistons are backed out.
Brake wear will lower the level in the resevoir, as the caliper pistons expand to keep the pads against the rotors. You mention the brakes are nearly worn out. That could account for the difference if you've had a lot of brake wear in the last few months.
Add fluid to raise it back to max and keep a close eye on it, or better yet deal with the brake pads. Remember if you put new pads on, to be careful to prevent overflow of the resevoir as the caliper pistons are backed out.
Thats why you open the cap to revmove some brake fluid or put a rag there when you replace the pads. Open up cap and watch the fluid rise as you turn in the piston.
You need the MC cap to be off to relieve pressure when replacing pads.
I have brake pads with very few miles on them if you need a set PM me.
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