crazy4scsa

HI all, new here ... any input would help !
ok, had a Hyundai Accent that died on me on Friday.
Went and bought a 2007 rx8 because lets face it, it looks awesome.
40K miles, $17K
Come home and do some research (I know, should of done this first) ...
I am reading so many horror stories about this car ... do most of these "need new engine" problems relate to older models? is the 07 better now?
I drive 90 miles daily, will this car really be dependable / reliable?
I understand the whole add oil and only use 93 octane gas, no problems there, even the mpg dont bother me, whats eating at me is all this talk about bad wires/coils/plugs/mounts etc. ... sounds like they need a new everything every 10k miles ...
I am use to driving an accent, so this power and acceleration is new to me, what is all the talk about redline ?? you do this DAILY?? i am so confused on carbon build up. this is a rotary engine thing?
I really am clueless and honestly thought what could go wrong but all these stories have me running scared. Im sure you are all going to call me an idiot but I really do love the feel & look of this car, Im just nervous it has so many problems. Can anyone suggest the real way to drive these, what rpms to shift at, best way to care for a rotary. Does the "lucky" or "lemon" apply to 2007?
thanks all!

josuar88

LOL Someone want to start a new thread for this one lol

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

treat your car well and it'll return the favor.
do more reading, stop listening to the whiney people here that love to complain about every little thing.

feel free to drive agressively, the rotary loves high RPM's.

zoom44

where do you live? is it automatic or stick?

wheresmypistons?

is there a good reference to maintaining these cars?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The ignition system stuff you are seeing is one of the weak points of the 8. The plugs, wires, and coils need to be replaced at most every 30,000 miles, but they can fail earlier. It will be a slow subtle loss of power and MPG until you start getting misfires. Let it keep going, and it can cause cat failure as well, which can also cause 02 sensor problems, etc...

Most of the expense of this can be mitigated by doing the maintenance yourself quite easily (~an hour tops for replacing plugs, coils, wires), and if you keep on top of it, you won't understand what the fuss is all about. Let it go without attention though, and you will join the crowd of people complaining.

Also rev hard and high regularly, the rotary loves redline, not dangerous like piston engines. Your engine and your heart will thank you for it
Cruise low, but don't lug/accelerate low, that can cause problems. Don't be afraid or bothered by shifting. That's so much part of the fun. Premix as well, and it will help prevent seal wear.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

May have been able to do better on price, but can't change that now.

Yeah, the '04 and '05 models had some interesting issues that mazda fixed by '06. The good news is that your engine has an 8 year/100k mile warranty. You'll need to make sure you have the service records even though you're the 2nd owner (oil change reciepts) So, call the dealer for those and get on their *** to give you something in writing. Also, if you're going to mod, mazda loves to void engine warranties because of mods.

Yes, keep an eye on your oil level. you'll need to add a bit at every other fuel-up. Check it often! Also, there is a huge oil debate in here, but my personal advice is to run 5w-30 minimum. Not 5w-20 as Mazda North America says.

Yeah, you'll probably need to change coils and spark plugs in the near future. Both are easy to do and there are DIYs on this website so you can do them yourself. A dealer can do this for you, but it'll be very expensive.

As for "mounts" the motor mounts should be fine, but can be easily inspected with the front wheels off. Haven't hard of too many motormounts failing on the newer models.

As for "redlining" and shifting advice... these engines were meant to spin at a high RPM.... if you baby them, they'll get carbon build-up which can potentially damage the engine. However, Never rev your engine when the engine is cold. This really goes for any car, but especially the rotary.

If you're getting on the free way, just wind up the rpms to red line for 2 shifts. Its important that you redline under engine load also (not just revving in a parking spot in neutral) Daily is good...

As for shifting, I normally shift pretty low, 3.5-5k rpm, but I drive like a grandma most of the time because I like trying to get decent MPG out of the car. Shifting at 5, 6 or 7 won't hurt anything other than mpgs.

Hope this helps...

Use the search button, browse the forums, and read the stickies and people will only call you an idiot at a minimum.

From an accent to an RX8. . . damn.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

Although I've enjoyed modding and over-maintaining my '05, at four years use and 25k now, honestly there's really nothing I needed to do more than any other vehicle I've owned except be more vigilant about oil consumption, which as you know is a rotary design criteria.

We're enthusiasts here so we tend to over analyse every little nuance, which isn't a bad thing but should be placed in the proper overall context. And be reminded that people without any problems don't tend to post that fact (pretty boring to read "my '8 is performing well), so the lack of reliability perception is significantly skewed by those who do.

As others have said, if you maintain it as you should any enthusiast's sportscar you'll be fine.

The below was well written by another member:

RX8 - FAQ for New Owners

So you just bought your first RX8, or you bought a used one, and you have a rotary engine you not familiar with. First off, relax, its really not that different, but here are the little things you’ll want to do / know to make sure you enjoy the car and it lives a long and happy life.

The following is a brief summary of the rx8club.com forums collective wisdom after nearly 95,000 threads and 1.7 million posts. It is not totally comprehensive, but will cover most of the major issues for first time rotary RX8 owners. Most of the recall issues only apply to cars built before the 2006 model year, but double check you car just in case.

1. Occasional Aggressive driving is good – First off its fun, second, it helps prevent carbon buildup in the engine and intake system. Make sure you rev to at least 7500rpm to make sure all the intake valves open. You don’t need to redline every start, but once a day is fun and good for the car.

Oh, and please don’t attempt the 7000rpm clutch dump launches the magazines did to get their 0-60mph numbers. This is not the aggressive driving that is mentioned above. Its suicide for your clutch and transmission.

2. Make sure your car has the latest PCM flash and recalls – Below are the major recalls that seem to have affected most people. Most are simple and can be done by the dealer in a day.
a) PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Flash – The RX8 has a very complex computer driving the engine that has gone through several firmware upgrades. Make sure your on the latest PCM flash from the dealer.
b) In the summer of 2006, a major emissions related recall was conducted on 2004-2006 RX8’s related to catalytic converter, and in some cases engine failures. For most people, the recall simply involved a PCM update, some owners had faulty catalytic converters replaced, and some owners had engines replaced. If you own a used vehicle, make sure recall 4206F was performed.
c) Ignition Coils – older cars had coils that overheated and would misfire, its easily to tell by flipping a coil over and looking for a burn spot on the back side of the coils. Mazda redesigned the coils in 2006.
d) Starter and Battery – the original 04/05 RX8’s had a weak starter and battery that could contribute to flooding. Hard starts are the main symptoms, and the dealer can install an upgraded starter battery package to fix the issues.
e) Upgraded Spark plugs – along with the starter, the leading spark plugs went through a redesign in the 2005 to help with flooding issues. These improved plugs should be the only leading plugs you buy. (part #NGK RE7C-L)
f) Rough Idle – the Engine mounts and mount brackets were redesigned in 2005 to alleviate rough idle issues. Heat from the exhaust manifold can also damage

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

^ this is the key. The people that treat their 8s like they need more maintenance than other cars, are often the same people that say it isn't that much more, and are the same people without any real issue. The people that only perform maintenance when something comes to their attention, generally have more issues, and complain about what all is needed.

Treat it like it needs it, and you will be fine

FoxRacer600RR

some good advice i can give if listen to "a few of the ppl on here" and you're car will last, i bought a 04 in 06 with 46000 miles on it and less than 6 months latter i had a no start due to flooding/ fouling plugs BUT i hoped on here and found my resolution and from then on i have taken advice from a select few of the ppl on here and from following some tips and trix and normal maintenance suggestions my car has over 83000 miles on it and i run the **** out of it almost everyday and track driven almost every other weekend during the summer .......i will say one thing tho, you have to treat and pamper ur 8 as if it is ur child lol or it will **** on u every chance it gets

Bigbacon

iTrader: (4)

honestly, remember to check the oil, get regular oil changes and just follow what Mazda says for maintenance and you'll be ok. I think MANY of the problems you may see, are either from people not doing the regular maintenance OR things really beyond your control.

You'll be find other wise, you are covered under multiple warranties that will keep you covered in most cases.

So, sit back, relax, and enjoy the awesome car you just bought and feel good about not being in the accent anymore.

crazy4scsa

i live near memphis, tn.
and lately it has been really really cold .... this is a problem with the 8's ? cold weather?? i know i will never drive it in snow though ...
this is a 6 speed manual
my accent was stick as well but holy crap what a difference in shifting!!
i think thats where i am lacking, not understanding this whole rpm thing, lets face it, in the accent u shift as soon as engine gets loud & feels like its going to blow up (10 mph into 2nd, 20 mph into 3rd etc..)
i asked the dealer why the car shook so hard when i shift, he told me i am shifting wrong (oh and he said a lot of people like that, makes it truly sporty?)... I either let up on the clutch very quickly or i ride both the clutch and gas so much to smooth it out .. i knew better then to buy another stick, i think i shift too slowly

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Shift it between 4000 and 5000 rpm. For everyday driving.

crazy4scsa

ok so pay attention to what the car is telling me , it gives clues .. still seems crazy to me to have to maintain a vehicle so often, especially since i can do 25k miles a year .. on a 6 yr term, this could get pricey!

oh and guess i forgot to mention, i am not good at car work .. 32 yr old female, i cant even DIY change the oil! for some reason i suppose i just assumed this was like every other car, now i know why i have never seen one on the road!
but hence the whole reason i had to have it ... sooooo unique looking!

crazy4scsa

you all are so very helpful, i thank you thank you!! but im not into car talk ..
clear this up .. cruise (55 mph?) low .. like in 4th??
dont lug .. what is LUG? accelerate low .. like today when i passed a truck i think i hit 80 in 4th ... is that bad?

this car really is just too darn much fun, i cant believe the peppy pick up compared to my no horsepower accent! i can finally pass the people doing 35 in a 55!!

one more thing from ya ... premix .. what does that mean? i want to prevent all the wear i can!

crazy4scsa

i thought i paid to much too but at the time, it seemed good till i blue booked!
thought wow a car that looks like a million bucks for under $400 a month!!


the ENGINE has a warranty??? how how how do i get this?? i was told i have the rest of the 5 year 60k "powertrain" but that will be used up in 10 months the amount of miles i drive. i would keep this car without any more sleepless nights if i knew a warranty would cover engine failure .. which BTW, are the coils, plugs, and wires covered?? but then again, will it spend more time in the shop then driving on the road
oil change records, i dont think the dealer has those (it wasnt bought on a mazda lot) .. could i track down the original owner to ask for these? what happens if i cant get them, i cant get the warranty?

never fear, i dont plan on mods, i wouldnt even know where to begin!

crazy4scsa

5w-30 .. i have been reading on that, seems to me that if the 20 is too thin, who the heck would use it! does it void the warranty? there is no possible way they could tell its not 20 right? lol

so i have to diy coils & plugs, i take it they are not included in warranty lol
how in the world do i find out when this was last done by the last owner?
i know there are two spark plugs in the glove box ... bad sign??

never thought to find out info about service history, ugh

LGukas

iTrader: (1)

You have never seen the car on the road because this car is for special people :D
So this is your first car with manual transmission? if yes on the beginning try to shift very slowly like
1. Clutch pedal to the floor
2. Shift on neutral
3. Shift up/down
4. Release clutch half of the way.
5. press a little gas pedal,
6 Release clutch pedal.


English is my second language, sorry for mistakes.

crazy4scsa

wind up rpms to red line for 2 shifts, meaning .... stay in 3rd till i hit red, shift to 4th till red? then im good to stay in 6th?

i find myself shifting before i get to 4k rpm .. the engine sounds beautiful but in my accent that loud engine meant hurry and shift before i crap out on ya! gotta retrain my brain to love that sound i suppose! guess i just get nervous it cant handle it!

i hope im not a pest, you all are so awesome to answer my questions!!

from accent to 8 damn ... thats what all my friends are saying too!!! i LOVE it!

tubingchamp

iTrader: (3)

Redline in 4th is over 200KM/H.... 125MPH..

Just do it in 2nd gear.

crazy4scsa

thats what my mom said, how can soooo many people have soooo many problems, guess i was only hearing all the bad cause yeah, why would u read my car works today!! i totally freaked out though, truly thought i have a lemon on my hands! still wondering ...

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

I haven't seen this mentioned yet, especially amidst all the "redline it regularly", and "shift at xxxx-xxxx RPM" suggestions -- make sure to let the car warm up prior to venturing beyond 4000 RPM... 5-10 minutes of driving under that speed should suffice.

Other than that, yes; flog it whenever you feel like it! Shifting at RPMs near or under 2k RPM can be considered "lugging" the engine (forcing the engine speed below idle, causing the engine to hesitate). I personally would advise shifting no earlier than 3000 RPM, normal driving between 3-4k before warmed up, afterwards - anything goes!

Your natural reaction to shift @ 4k is fine. However keep in mind that this engine can stay at that speed without any undue strain. (~73 mph in 6th gear is roughly around there) When warmed up, do not worry about the engine staying in the higher rev ranges longer than usual.

You will eventually become more familiar with the gears and their respective RPM changes. Smoothness will come to you with time. There is a table in the manual that suggests various speeds at which to shift from which gears. Use this only as a guideline because these values are very conservative and will become boring very quickly.

Check your oil every (or every other) gas refill. I try to keep the oil level at all times anywhere between the half and full marks.

EDIT:
Redlining tips:

If you redline first gear, be patient and gentle in pushing the gear into 2nd; it's a considerable change in gear ratio.

The easiest way to redline the car safely on public roads is merging with traffic via highway on-ramps going all the way through 2nd, which tops out just under 70 mph.

Redlining for the sake of "clearing out the carbon" does not work in neutral; the engine needs to be under load.

crazy4scsa

geez i really dont know much about speed do i ...
seems to me to go that fast to hit the red in 2nd that the car will blow up!
this is good for it?? i have only known to never go past 30 mph in 2nd gear, i have soooo much to learn!

ok, maybe i am misinformed, can anyone lay out what speeds in what gears..
im only looking at the rpms cause i never had a read out before, is it mph or rpms that i use to shift by? seems like im going way to fast to hit 4-5k rpms to finally upshift!?

wheellee

you can go to www.mazdausa.com and sign up there under the owners section and you might be lucky enough to have service records there for any work that has been done to your car, if the previous owner took it to the dealer for the work to be done.

the engine has a 8yr/100k mile warranty. if you worried that your 60k powertrain warranty might not be enough you can get an extended warranty through the dealer and just have it added to the cost of the car, i got mine till 2013 and it only raised my payment by about $10 a month. well worth it just in case anything does go wrong.

crazy4scsa

lugging. . thank you for clearing that up .. that would be the jerking shaking uh oh moments i have had due to thinking i need to shift before i hit 25mph!!
so this car is not like that, this is more a rpm thing then a mph thing, i just dont know the range yet ... like im in 6th by the time i do 55 mph .. bad thing?
anything above 45 mph would be last gear is what i was always told.


now i think im over the engine problems and on to the fact i cant drive this thing properly! i may be the blame on if it craps out on me! i have heard the word redline but never knew what it meant