Idle issues (merged with Rx8 stalls at idle. help me!)
09-23-2011, 04:16 AM
#1
RoTorY
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Idle issues (merged with Rx8 stalls at idle. help me!)
Well this started out of now where!! Was driving the car around and all of a sudden it died on me! The car stars fine and everything you just have to hold the gas above 1k rpms if it goes under it shuts of by its self i dont what the problem could be! so if anyone knoes what could be wrong id appreciate the help! thanks
09-23-2011, 02:35 PM
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Rx8 stalls at idle. help me!
My 2004 mazda rx8 keeps stalling on me....
Starts up no problem, runs full throtle no problem just at idle it stalls....
Sometimes it wont stall but will idle very low around 500 rpm...
Battery is fully charged as well.
Called mazda and its 96.00 to look at it.
Anyone have this problem?
Thanks clubrx8
Starts up no problem, runs full throtle no problem just at idle it stalls....
Sometimes it wont stall but will idle very low around 500 rpm...
Battery is fully charged as well.
Called mazda and its 96.00 to look at it.
Anyone have this problem?
Thanks clubrx8
09-23-2011, 02:42 PM
#5
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Having the same issue, I talked to a friend of mine about it, but all he really knows is bikes, he said when a bike does it, it can be an issue with the computer reading the air intake or fuel intake, usually having to do with having a new exhaust or intake. I'm still trying to find out what to do about it... not sure if yours is the same issue as mine though, mine will stall in idle, or idle low, and sometimes when driving it dies if I throw it in neutral, so if you figured it out or someone else has any ideas I need help too, haha.
09-23-2011, 02:53 PM
#8
There are similar threads linked below, try your initial search and navigate there. You can read these quotes from RX8Soldier and shaunv74 from one of the link.
you do know that Mazda extended the engine core warranty to 8 year/100k miles, right?
What maintenance have you done to your car?
Change plugs/ coils?
Do you have the upgraded starter?
Your engine should still be covered under warranty
PS This isn't a hard problem to diagnose, as that same question gets asked at least weekly. Click the link in my sig to find a more effective way to search. Good luck!
What maintenance have you done to your car?
Change plugs/ coils?
Do you have the upgraded starter?
Your engine should still be covered under warranty
PS This isn't a hard problem to diagnose, as that same question gets asked at least weekly. Click the link in my sig to find a more effective way to search. Good luck!
The OEM warrantly is 8yr/100K miles on the engine core. Take the car back to the dealer you bought it from, say exactly to them what you said to us. That will have them perform a decarb and vacuum test to see if your engine is still in spec. It's also common to have to replace coils, plugs, and wires. You can do this yourself first if you're inclined. It's much cheaper than the dealer and they'll want to you replace them before they diagnose the engine.
Do you have all maintenance records? Some (not all!) dealerships require you to have all service records of maintenance work done to your car in order to qualify for a replacement engine. Call them and ask if they'll honor the warranty. Then bring it in for a compression test. If you fail compression, they will replace the engine for you. If you pass, you'll have to pay for the test, which is roughly $100-150.
Also, chances are your coils/plugs haven't been changed. check with Mazmart, a vendor of these forums and order a set of OEM plugs/ coils (the stock ones usually only last ~25k miles). Or, what I would recommend, visit blackhaloracing.com and order a set of theirs. They will last much longer than OEM and are more beneficial to the engine.
Also, chances are your coils/plugs haven't been changed. check with Mazmart, a vendor of these forums and order a set of OEM plugs/ coils (the stock ones usually only last ~25k miles). Or, what I would recommend, visit blackhaloracing.com and order a set of theirs. They will last much longer than OEM and are more beneficial to the engine.
09-23-2011, 03:33 PM
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mine is 2004, 6 speed.
Its never done this before but suddenly it as done this....
Im might reset the ecu later to see if it will do the trick...
If anyone has any more ideals please keep them coming.
Thanks clubrx8
Its never done this before but suddenly it as done this....
Im might reset the ecu later to see if it will do the trick...
If anyone has any more ideals please keep them coming.
Thanks clubrx8
09-23-2011, 03:38 PM
#12
Bling, do you have a check engine light on?
Either way, both of you should start with cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor and the Throttle Body. Both procedures can be found in this thread.
Either way, both of you should start with cleaning the Mass Airflow Sensor and the Throttle Body. Both procedures can be found in this thread.
09-23-2011, 03:54 PM
#13
RoTorY
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yeah my check engine light has been on ever since i got my turboxs exhaust!! ill go down to auto parts too see if it comes up with any other codes!!
thanks for the help
thanks for the help
09-24-2011, 11:12 AM
#15
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Another minor thing to take a look at is to check and make sure that your battery rails/clamps/grounds w/e are tight. I had an issue several months ago where somehow the connection to the battery got loose and when idling and slowing down the car would stall. 
09-29-2011, 01:14 AM
#16
i just recently got the same issue.. it is a pain in the ***!
heres my situation....
i disconnected the [-] for the battery so that i can change my axxess box that was updated by metra
reconnected the [-] to the battery
when i tried to start the car, the revs emediately drop to 0 and stalls. i did this maybe 10 times and it would not stay at a constant rpm.
so i tried to reset [using the brake pedal with key ON position] and it kind of helped.
it would keep the rpm at 700 but lets say i were to come from second and pop in neutral or let the revs drop below 1000, it would go to 0 and stall out instead of staying at 700 or so. this would happen at stop signs and interections when i need to stop or pop it out of gear while moving]
other information
-NO Cel
-Only thing i did was disconnect and reconnect the negative from the battery. [made sure the connection was tight]
- First time this has ever occurred on my car that i can recall.
other things to note
-every time i start the car, i here 3 beeps and the air bag light flashes and goes away, but only when starting the car.
doubt it could be any of the tings below
[MAF, doesnt make sense this would happen now, not to mention the intake was not touched at all]
[CAT, i am running a High Flow cat simmilar to davesport, and no related CEL]
Coils, Similar to the reasoning of the MAF]
any ideas?
heres my situation....
i disconnected the [-] for the battery so that i can change my axxess box that was updated by metra
reconnected the [-] to the battery
when i tried to start the car, the revs emediately drop to 0 and stalls. i did this maybe 10 times and it would not stay at a constant rpm.
so i tried to reset [using the brake pedal with key ON position] and it kind of helped.
it would keep the rpm at 700 but lets say i were to come from second and pop in neutral or let the revs drop below 1000, it would go to 0 and stall out instead of staying at 700 or so. this would happen at stop signs and interections when i need to stop or pop it out of gear while moving]
other information
-NO Cel
-Only thing i did was disconnect and reconnect the negative from the battery. [made sure the connection was tight]
- First time this has ever occurred on my car that i can recall.
other things to note
-every time i start the car, i here 3 beeps and the air bag light flashes and goes away, but only when starting the car.
doubt it could be any of the tings below
[MAF, doesnt make sense this would happen now, not to mention the intake was not touched at all]
[CAT, i am running a High Flow cat simmilar to davesport, and no related CEL]
Coils, Similar to the reasoning of the MAF]
any ideas?
09-29-2011, 03:16 PM
#20
so with help from another local member [GRACE EXEL] i finally got it to hold idle.
first he said to remove the[+] from the battery and press the brake pedal for a couple seconds.
i started the car and it was a little boggy but after a quick drive it held it fine.
and then if it was still dropping then reset
first he said to remove the[+] from the battery and press the brake pedal for a couple seconds.
i started the car and it was a little boggy but after a quick drive it held it fine.
and then if it was still dropping then reset
09-29-2011, 03:46 PM
#21
FIRST TIME ROTA OWNA
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Hi RoToRy
Had same problem with mine, after changing coils' plugs and Battery turned out to be a carbon build up in throttle body! not allowing butterfly to close properly. A sand with emery paper and clean and ticks over fine.
Had same problem with mine, after changing coils' plugs and Battery turned out to be a carbon build up in throttle body! not allowing butterfly to close properly. A sand with emery paper and clean and ticks over fine.
01-23-2012, 04:27 PM
#22
My8RoX
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10-25-2013, 11:15 PM
#23
New Member
i have the solution for some
Alright guys listen up for a solution you can try>>> i have had my rx8 for about 4 years and i have always had a weird idle because it had undrive pulleys on it. i got used to driving it around and keeping the idle from stalling out at red lights. i finally take it to mazda and they reset the car and it was fine for 5 minutes when i got it back and then it would happen again.
my main problem was it would randomly have a rough idle and the car would shut off at red lights and stuff especially right when i would come to a stop it would act weird. after talking to mazda they told me how to reset the cars idle.
sooooooo...... they told me to let the car warm up and then shut it off with the key in the off position, pump the gas peddle 18 times,,, thats eighteen times all the way to the floor quickly and then turn the car back on i would let it sit for a few minutes to without raising the rpms. hope it works for you all
it helped me sometimes but i still feel my car acts weird but it is almost at 100,000 miles my car is an 04 idk if anyone would want to know
my main problem was it would randomly have a rough idle and the car would shut off at red lights and stuff especially right when i would come to a stop it would act weird. after talking to mazda they told me how to reset the cars idle.
sooooooo...... they told me to let the car warm up and then shut it off with the key in the off position, pump the gas peddle 18 times,,, thats eighteen times all the way to the floor quickly and then turn the car back on i would let it sit for a few minutes to without raising the rpms. hope it works for you all
it helped me sometimes but i still feel my car acts weird but it is almost at 100,000 miles my car is an 04 idk if anyone would want to know
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DylanB (03-15-2023)
10-27-2013, 12:01 PM
#25
Surprisingly I'm having these issues (again). Just threw on a fresh BHR set and new plugs. Wouldn't start, got a pull start this morning, now I have P0302 and P0506 up, won't hold idle (thinking that's just my fuel trims), and there is a pretty decent knocking sound coming from the manifold/throttle body / block area in general.
Hooked up my inductive timing light to each wire whilst my girlfriend held the car at idle ~1000rpm, all seemed to be going fine. Reset NVRAM and did all the other crap.
Question, though: Does anyone know if using the timing light tests only the coils and wires, or if it actually works in the sense that if there is spark (a.k.a. the full electrical connection is made), if using the timing light will also help test whether the plugs are firing or not? I'm thinking if by some miracle its not a compression issue, that I simply have a loose wire on a plug, dirty throttle body, etc., but my question above will give some insight... again just knowing if the timing light gives insight on whether the plugs are firing?... I'm no electrical master but that would make sense to me.
Hooked up my inductive timing light to each wire whilst my girlfriend held the car at idle ~1000rpm, all seemed to be going fine. Reset NVRAM and did all the other crap.
Question, though: Does anyone know if using the timing light tests only the coils and wires, or if it actually works in the sense that if there is spark (a.k.a. the full electrical connection is made), if using the timing light will also help test whether the plugs are firing or not? I'm thinking if by some miracle its not a compression issue, that I simply have a loose wire on a plug, dirty throttle body, etc., but my question above will give some insight... again just knowing if the timing light gives insight on whether the plugs are firing?... I'm no electrical master but that would make sense to me.