maguirre_94

OK SO I DONT KNOW IF ITS RELATED, BUT THIS STARTED HAPPENING RIGHT AFTER I DID MY OIL CHANGE THE OTHER DAY. I DID IT THE PROPER WAY CHANGED THE OIL FILTER AS WELL. ANYWAY LET ME WHATS HAPPENING. WHENEVER I START UP MY CAR, IT IS TAKING LONGER THAN USUAL TO START, AND IT WILL SOMETIMES DIE ON ITS OWN. AFTER WARMING UP, IT WILL DRIVE EITHER REGULAR, OR ALLLL FUCKED UP. IF I FLOOR IT, THE POPS BECOME WORSE, AND LESS POPPING, AS IF THE POP IS CHARGING UP AND THEN PAAAHHHHP PAAAAAHHHHHHPP. IF UNPLOGED THE COILS AND PLUGGED THEM BACK IN (THEY ARE BHR, FARILY NEW, ALSO INSTALLED PROPERLY). IT SEEMED TO HELP THE PROBLEM SLIGHTLY, BUT NOT MUCH. SO BASICALLY, THE POPING WILL GET WORSE THE MORE GAS YOU GIVE.

P.S
OHH AND THIS IS THE MESSED UP PART. I GOT OFF FROM SCHOOL THE OTHER DAY AND HAD TO DRIVE TO SOME SOCCER FIELDS ABOUT 20 MILES AWAY, AND THE CAR WAS ABSOLUTELY STRUGGLING TO GET THERE, LOSING POWER AND WANTING TO DIE. I STOPPED AT A VALERO, CHECKED MY OIL AND MY COILS, FIDDLED WITH THE AIR BOX AND SAW NOTHING WRONG. I THEN CONTINUED TO MY DESTINATION WHILE THE CAR WAS STILL POPPING AT TIMES. WHEN LEAVING THE FIELDS, I STARTED MY CAR AND IT WOULD NOT STAY ON THE FIRST 2 TIMES. I THEN CONTINUED HOME AND THE CAR EVENTUALLY LET OUT A HUGE POP AND THEN DIED. I MANAGED TO START IT BACK ON THE ROLL AND LIKE MAGIC, THE CAR WAS WORKING PERFECTLY ALL THE WAY HOME... LIKE I WAS ABLE TO FLOOR IT AND FLY LIKE IM SUPPOSED TO. THEN THE NEXT MORNING BACK TO SQUARE ONE, WITH THE MISFIRES. IM GONNA TRY SEAFOAM BUT IM THINKING I JUST MIGHT NEED NEW FUEL INJECTORS??? ANY ADVICE.

Bigtmoneyd

Check your spark plugs, oil level, try and reset the ecu after checking the other things. Those are your best bets. There is a e shaft reset using the brake pedal and a ecu reset that using the milage button. Both ways are on the net. Those would be my next moves

Legot

iTrader: (1)

HOLY MOTHER OF CAPs!

maguirre_94

okay cool, I'll definitely give it a shot and get back to yall. Thanks........
P.S yea i had caps lock on on accident and i was too lazy to turn it off lol

wcs

iTrader: (2)

You're really in to troubleshooting mode.
Slow down and lets double check the basics.

First did you change the oil and install the BHR kit at the same time?
Curious only to narrow down when this issue started.

- Did you add new plugs when you installed the BHR kit?
- Is the BHR kit brand new or purchased used?
- Stop pulling the plugs wires on and off especially from the coil packs. The connector inside the boot can break causing misfires.


- How much Oil did you add? Hopefully you didn't over fill it but some painful amount.
- Any other mods besides the BHR kit?

- What year is your car? How many miles?

- When you added the oil did you use a oil filler cone?
On the early models there is a hose that connects the oil filler neck to the intake.
If you're careless while adding oil you can get oil running from then filler neck to the intake. (See clean Maf below)

- Don't just check the plugs, make sure the "Plug Wires" are re-installed correctly in the correct order. It's an easy mistake to do. Be 100% sure.
- Make sure the ground wire for the BHR kit is in fact connected to a good ground.
- Clean the E-Shaft sensor (ESS) before the reset. I had a piece of copper wire stick mine once and it ran horribly. Dirt and oil can also cause problems.
- Check the catalytic convertor. If it's clogged it could be causing serious restrictions.
- Clean the Maf sensor.

All of these are easy to do and only require your time, some tools and a can of Maf cleaner.

You can do the sea foam it's not going to make this worse but isn't a magic bullet either, more of a hail Marry.

Do I think it's fuel injectors? Nah, I would be really really really surprised if it was.

maguirre_94

The car is an 04 with like 80,000 miles on the odometer. I did the coils last year in October and they have worked fine. I bought them brand new and new, came with leads, coils, and plugs. I did an oil change at Christmas time. Still was working fine, I did a full exhaust from the headers back over spring break at my house in Odessa and it worked fine all the way up here to my apartment San Antonio with no problems. I just changed the oil like 2 weeks ago ish.. However this time around i did not use a funnel when adding oil. How much oil do you usually add?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Well it sound's like you have done enough work on cars that you didn't add 10 liters of oil.
It's been awhile since I filled oil with a the Stock oil pan (I have the Greddy), I typically watch the dipstick and add as required.
4 liters of oil should do it on a stock setup.

Check all those things and let us know what you find.
Was the check engine light on?
If you can just check for any codes stored in the ECU if you haven't already reset it.

maguirre_94

you mean 4 quarts right?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, 1 quart is a tiny bit less than a liter

maguirre_94

I tried doing that brake reset and I saw the gauge move. Did not solve a thing. The idle seems okay and if I slightly press on the gas it will rev without misfire, but if I floor the pedal, the misfire is BAAD.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Did you check everything I laid out?

maguirre_94

I have not yet cleaned the maf

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Well you can buy a HEI Spark tester to check the coils.
It's a cheap tool.
TeamRX8 has a post somewhere on how to do it.

Clean the Maf

Then get a compression test.

Sounds like you're at the extent of what you can do

maguirre_94

I have cleaned the Maf and the car seems to be running a lot better! I think I am still gonna do the seafoam cause I already have it lol

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Sure seafoam aint going to hurt nothing.

Good to hear things are running better

Espo

iTrader: (1)

Sounds eerily similar to symptoms I had during compression loss. The big item to watch for is if it loses power when warm, once the engine is at temperature and expands, the gaps will open for compression loss. When this happened to me, I had 0 compression in one rotor and less than half the normal tolerance in the other.

maguirre_94

well now it is not even turning on

wcs

iTrader: (2)

What does that mean exactly?

It's not even turning over?
Or it turns over but doesn't start?

maguirre_94

its turning over but not starting. I managed to get it to start once but it died soon after, and one more time when pushing it back to my apartment. It was running and having a lot of misfire then died again. Worse case scenario...my motor is done

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like spending some $$$ on a compression test would be a good next step.

Keep us posted please

maguirre_94

You know how I can do it myself? Really, I just need to know where and how much it costs to get the tool and the rest I can figure out...Maybe autozone?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Really no. You can get a $15 compression tester at autozone, but that will do you no good on a rotary. There is this TR-01 Rotary Engine Compression Tester, but it's over double the price of a compression test at the dealer.

The tool the dealer uses is proprietary to Mazda, not something you can just buy.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You can buy the Mazda tool. But it is very expensive, it makes no sense to buy one unless you plan on owning a rotary for the rest of your life.

Just go to the dealer and pay $100-150 to get it done.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

+1

I'll also add I own one of those TR-01 rotary compression testers, wish I had a official Mazda device. I would love to do back to back tests.

Overall I feel the device at the very least is a good ball park number.

Oh and I don't think he sells them anymore, you'd need to find a used model

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I tested our Rotary Diagnostics tester, carbon8's TR-1, and a Mazda tester (local member is a dealer tech) all on my engine back to back and there were significant differences but all were fairly close. But if you engine is borderline, one tester could put you below the line and one could put you above. But if you are borderline it is rebuild time as afar as I am concerned.