SSRX8NC

My car won't start, and all it does it beep at me with a quick flashing security light. (could it be a relay?)

Here is how it happened...This morning my car wouldn't start because someone left the key in the on position over night. That person would be me! Anyway, of course I'm already running late for work, and wouldn't you know it...I have no jumper cables. Luck would have it that I kept my factory battery when I upgraded to the Optima. Long story short, I install my old battery but durng the process the positive cable touched the negative post of the battery, or vice versa, NOT SURE WHICH...Just know there were some sparks. Once I FINALLY got the OLD battery installed PROPERLY, nothing worked but the lights, and the instrument panel. So I narrow it down the the Main 120A fuse, which was blown, and replace it. Now everything works, but the car won't start. Just loud beeping and a quick flashing security light.

I did some research on here and it looks like the diagnostics is for the security and found the code "No communication with coil" WHATEVER that means. Also I saw where you could reprogram NEW keys, but nothing for when your key stops working with you own car....CAN ANYONE HELP PLEASE???!!!!????

Just tested the keyless entry and it does not work either...

-Main fuse is good
-ignition fuse is good
-Cobb access port can not communicate with the ECU
-OH ****

Thanks,

Matt

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Does the security light give you a flash pattern (ex: flash, pause, flash, flash, pause)

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Looks like there are two fuses between the MAIN 120A fuse and the Keyless Control Module.
A BTN 30A and D. LOCK 30A fuse.
Did you check these too?

SSRX8NC

I'm sitting in m car now...it flashes really fast and beeps for 4 seconds, continues to flash for 1 minute, then nothing for 2 seconds, a quick single flash, nothing for 3 seconds, another single flash, 5 second pause, and then repeats the single 3 single....?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

.....

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Well... you got some work ahead of you.
Sending you a PM.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

You never answered, but did you check the two fuses after the 120A MAIN?

SSRX8NC

Sorry, I didn't expect someone to help so quickly. I had been working on it since I got home from work, and was tired of sitting in my car, in the garage, on my laptop :P

Decided to make some dinner. I'm going to check that out ASAP.

Thank you SOOOO much for your help! I'm hoping this does the trick.

Matt

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

No problem.
Keep us posted on your findings!

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Here is where the keyless control module is located.
Follow the troubleshooting guide I sent you.

SSRX8NC

Unfortunately both of those fuses looked OK. There is not any inline fuse I'm missing anywhere is there? AGHHH

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

When the shop manual says to check the coil from the Keyless Control Unit, its referring to the Immobilizer System (the unit the key goes into).
This shouldn't be removed unless its being replaced, but you can check the wiring/harness to it.

SSRX8NC

OK, I' have the glove box out now, and I'll take a look at that.

From what you've sent me, it sure looks like it would be nice to have a "WDS or equivalent". AGH!

OK, Thus far we have rules out:

Main 120A Fuse
BTN 60A Fuse
D.Lock 30A Fuse
60A fuse connected to the positive battery cable
For that matter, I've checked every fuse in both the engine bay box, and the kick panel...ALL GOOD!

P.S. Shoot me now

SSRX8NC

Let's assume that you're right here, and it is the immobilizer system, like everything indicates so far. Would that also make it impossible for my Cobb Accessport to access the ECU? Because I can't even get that to work....?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Not sure about the Cobb Accessport in relation to the Coil.
Follow the guide I sent to verify the input signal circuit to the coil.
There is a link to the right labeled "COIL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION" that shows how to access it, just don't remove the coil.

SSRX8NC

Thanks again Jon! I ended up having it towed to the dealership, which my insurance paid for, and they reprogrammed my keys to work ($105.00). It could have been worse :P


Matt

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Interesting....
Glad to hear you got it going.

JohnLee_Fin

Argh!
I have t he same problem. hmm should i take to my car in the dealer or anything tricks ?

I8U

iTrader: (1)

^Check your fuses...all your fuses, inside the cab and under the hood.

JohnLee_Fin

Just check them out and all the fuses are in good condition. my optima battery is very good condition too hmm 12.4 voltage.

i also tried another key but the smae problem is still going on, argh!

JohnLee_Fin

My eight is working now it was the battery too low voltage i think ?

because i put the battery for about 6 hours to load.

thank you guys for help!