Have ABS DCS/TCS issues with lights staying on?
:hey
06-26-2011, 06:45 AM
#28
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Now.....if you decide to change that tire, take a good look at the other side as well. It would be best to change both at once to insure they have the same amount of wear and tread pattern.
08-28-2011, 11:31 PM
#30
rev it up
I had the same problem and it stared when I went over some rumble strips on the road on the way to the track. It initially went off when I started the car however, later it stayed on all the time.
When I got to the tack I changed to my regular track tyres and I tried disconnecting the battery and this did not help. However, turning the wheel to the right then left solved the problem.
However, at the track the problem re appeared after a couple of laps.
After lunch I managed to plug in a OBD reader to find a P0000 code. However, after this the problem disappeared and I had a great afternoon track session and a uneventful 1400km drive home.
So, for me it is still a mystery and I hope it does not happen again especially at the track.
When I got to the tack I changed to my regular track tyres and I tried disconnecting the battery and this did not help. However, turning the wheel to the right then left solved the problem.
However, at the track the problem re appeared after a couple of laps.
After lunch I managed to plug in a OBD reader to find a P0000 code. However, after this the problem disappeared and I had a great afternoon track session and a uneventful 1400km drive home.
So, for me it is still a mystery and I hope it does not happen again especially at the track.
Last edited by skc; 08-28-2011 at 11:34 PM.
08-30-2011, 05:40 AM
#31
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I can't say for sure, but it's possible. How much tread is left on this tire and the others?
Now.....if you decide to change that tire, take a good look at the other side as well. It would be best to change both at once to insure they have the same amount of wear and tread pattern.
Now.....if you decide to change that tire, take a good look at the other side as well. It would be best to change both at once to insure they have the same amount of wear and tread pattern.
10-09-2011, 04:27 PM
#33
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Track Day Update to ABS/DSC/Brake Issue
DTC code C1222 (unspecified wheel speed error) was read.
So I got the car in for a very precise alignment, and had the wheel speed sensors checked, cleaned and the sensor area blown out with compressed air and reassembled.
On the track there were no electrical gremlins even when the car was pushed to the point of brake fade.
For now it seems to be much improved, but I wish I had a more definitive answer.
-DWF
So I got the car in for a very precise alignment, and had the wheel speed sensors checked, cleaned and the sensor area blown out with compressed air and reassembled.
On the track there were no electrical gremlins even when the car was pushed to the point of brake fade.
For now it seems to be much improved, but I wish I had a more definitive answer.
-DWF
10-16-2011, 05:57 AM
#34
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DTC code C1222 (unspecified wheel speed error) was read.
So I got the car in for a very precise alignment, and had the wheel speed sensors checked, cleaned and the sensor area blown out with compressed air and reassembled.
On the track there were no electrical gremlins even when the car was pushed to the point of brake fade.
For now it seems to be much improved, but I wish I had a more definitive answer.
-DWF
So I got the car in for a very precise alignment, and had the wheel speed sensors checked, cleaned and the sensor area blown out with compressed air and reassembled.
On the track there were no electrical gremlins even when the car was pushed to the point of brake fade.
For now it seems to be much improved, but I wish I had a more definitive answer.
-DWF
Not sure..............guessing time may tell.
11-17-2011, 03:17 PM
#35
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TCS and ABS lights on in the dash. Ive tried the reset (turning the wheel) to no avail. Also checked the fuses/tire pressure all fine.
Also, no brake lights are functioning at all and one of my daytime running lights are out.
ABS and TCS are not functioning.
It in all likelihood has to be electrical. When it was saftied the daytime running lights weren't working at all and apparently there were some loose connections somewhere behind the glove box??
Have an appointment to take it to the stealership in a week. If anyone has some insight it would be greatly appreciated.
This website has been invaluable during the research and buying proccess, I have no doubt someone will have some insight on the subject.
Also, no brake lights are functioning at all and one of my daytime running lights are out.
ABS and TCS are not functioning.
It in all likelihood has to be electrical. When it was saftied the daytime running lights weren't working at all and apparently there were some loose connections somewhere behind the glove box??
Have an appointment to take it to the stealership in a week. If anyone has some insight it would be greatly appreciated.
This website has been invaluable during the research and buying proccess, I have no doubt someone will have some insight on the subject.
12-20-2011, 11:31 AM
#37
I have a question about #4.
So my dsc/tcs went out about 2weeks ago. I've been going through the list trying to fix it.
Saturday night my brake lights turn them selves on. After figuring out you can't adjust the switch's height I ordered a new one. Well today I NEEDED to use my car so I bent the bracket down a little and now the lights are working properly. The part came in today, I plan on putting it on when I get off. Do I need to reset everything? (disconnect battery) To be sure or not if this was the problem? I already tried dsc reset when I got the lights to work properly, but no luck.
I just don't wanna lose my fuel trims again if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance.
-Shawn
So my dsc/tcs went out about 2weeks ago. I've been going through the list trying to fix it.
Saturday night my brake lights turn them selves on. After figuring out you can't adjust the switch's height I ordered a new one. Well today I NEEDED to use my car so I bent the bracket down a little and now the lights are working properly. The part came in today, I plan on putting it on when I get off. Do I need to reset everything? (disconnect battery) To be sure or not if this was the problem? I already tried dsc reset when I got the lights to work properly, but no luck.
I just don't wanna lose my fuel trims again if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance.
-Shawn
12-21-2011, 06:42 PM
#39
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I have a question about #4.
So my dsc/tcs went out about 2weeks ago. I've been going through the list trying to fix it.
Saturday night my brake lights turn them selves on. After figuring out you can't adjust the switch's height I ordered a new one. Well today I NEEDED to use my car so I bent the bracket down a little and now the lights are working properly. The part came in today, I plan on putting it on when I get off. Do I need to reset everything? (disconnect battery) To be sure or not if this was the problem? I already tried dsc reset when I got the lights to work properly, but no luck.
I just don't wanna lose my fuel trims again if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance.
-Shawn
So my dsc/tcs went out about 2weeks ago. I've been going through the list trying to fix it.
Saturday night my brake lights turn them selves on. After figuring out you can't adjust the switch's height I ordered a new one. Well today I NEEDED to use my car so I bent the bracket down a little and now the lights are working properly. The part came in today, I plan on putting it on when I get off. Do I need to reset everything? (disconnect battery) To be sure or not if this was the problem? I already tried dsc reset when I got the lights to work properly, but no luck.
I just don't wanna lose my fuel trims again if I don't have to.
Thanks in advance.
-Shawn
I wouldn't think you would have to do any more than the reset as outlined in the first post when changing out the brake pedal switch. No need for battery disconnect or any reset that might reset the fuel trims(brake stomp).
I am confused however............are you saying that after you bent the bracket down with the old switch on it, brake lights began to work, and you tried the reset as written in post one at that time and it didn't make a difference to the DCS/TCS light?
With how fickle this car is with wiring and/or resistances, I could make a case where if the old switch didn't have the right resistance the car may not like it(DCS/TCS), but the brake lights could still work.
Dave
Last edited by Mazurfer; 12-21-2011 at 06:46 PM.
12-22-2011, 07:13 AM
#40
Now some questions:
Are you using the right size tires and all the same size, brand, and tread pattern? Yes.
Is one tire really worn more than the others? No
Even a small difference in one(or in the tire pressure) can actually lead to this...............but not really all that common. All at 32psi
If either of the above are true(especially the first one).....it can cause these lights!
Some possibilities and checks:
In no particular order(right now).
1.) Make sure none of the wires leading to the sensors have been compromised. Also check the connectors for good secure contact/connection. Have seen many times where due to road debris or when changing out suspension parts that wires have been cut by accident, sensors damaged, or connectors unplugged. Checked
2.) It can always be the sensor itself, just take off the wheels and make sure the sensor is snug, have someone watch your dashboard while you fiddle around with it, if it happens to be loose on a particular side the light on the dash should go away. The sensor is on each hub and is connected with a singular black wire that runs from the body to the sensor(behind the rotor). Checked
3.) You can do a RESISTANCE CHECK by: Disconnecting the sensors and checking with an ohmmeter for 0.79 - 2.2k ohms resistance.
4.) Brake light switch could be sticking on the brake pedal. I read where someone replaced it after doing #3 above as he read 4.4 - 4.7ohms at one of the sensors. Replaced
5.) Under the hood in the fuse box in location #7 is the ABS/DCS fuse. It's a 60A and you should check this! Checked
6.) You also need to check #13 a 30A in that same engine bay fuse box. Checked
7.) In the cabin fusebox(by drivers foot), check #10 which is a 7.5A Checked
8.) Alignment can cause this issue believe it or not.
9.) A burned out third brake light. Of all things! Checked
10.) Unfortunately I read that the damn PS connectors being dirty can cause this as well. WTF? Cleaned
11.) Oh…I know one………you didn’t stick an LED in the third brake light position did you? That can cause it! I went through that one myself! Some people don't need a load resistor and some do, the value I've seen recommended is........a 2 watt 150 Ohm wire wound resistor. There are some DIY's on how to put it in if you need to do so. Easy to tell, take out the LED and replace with normal bulb and see if issue goes away! Nope
12.) Get your alternator checked out and make sure it’s not over-charging as this can fry the module. Checked
13.) Keep in mind if the center position of the steering deviates, the DSC may also not operate correctly because there is a sensor in the steering which detects driving conditions. (See reset above, but you might want to check the connector) Not checked, but no power steering issues.
14.) Cut or shorted third brake power wire. Checked
15.) Switch itself could be bad. Checked to the best of my ability
Shawn -
I wouldn't think you would have to do any more than the reset as outlined in the first post when changing out the brake pedal switch. No need for battery disconnect or any reset that might reset the fuel trims(brake stomp).
I am confused however............are you saying that after you bent the bracket down with the old switch on it, brake lights began to work, and you tried the reset as written in post one at that time and it didn't make a difference to the DCS/TCS light?
With how fickle this car is with wiring and/or resistances, I could make a case where if the old switch didn't have the right resistance the car may not like it(DCS/TCS), but the brake lights could still work.
Dave
I wouldn't think you would have to do any more than the reset as outlined in the first post when changing out the brake pedal switch. No need for battery disconnect or any reset that might reset the fuel trims(brake stomp).
I am confused however............are you saying that after you bent the bracket down with the old switch on it, brake lights began to work, and you tried the reset as written in post one at that time and it didn't make a difference to the DCS/TCS light?
With how fickle this car is with wiring and/or resistances, I could make a case where if the old switch didn't have the right resistance the car may not like it(DCS/TCS), but the brake lights could still work.
Dave
Two days later I have to use the car, so out of frustration I bent the bracket closer to the pedal, brake lights function normally.
FF to yesterday, new switch comes in, unbend bracket, install new switch. Did the dsc reset, nothing. Disconnected battery, nothing. Reset the KAM NVARM (or w/e they are called) for ***** n giggles, nothing.
No alignment yet, figured I might as well wait on my new suspension in Jan, but car drives fine, every now and then it feel like its wondering on the road, but I think that has to do more with the road itself and the tires.
ABS works fine.
If all else fails I'll drag it to the dealer for a good raping... Just not till after I get new suspension, cause I'm sure that is the first thing they are gonna say I need to change.
-Shawn
12-25-2011, 05:48 PM
#42
Quick question, is this the OEM 3rd brake light?
Says "Koito" on the bottom left.
EDIT* finally had a rain free day. It is the OEM light as far as I can tell, it's defiantly not a L.E.D. one. It was filthy on the inside, the bulb was covered in dust. I cleaned everything and put it back together, dsc/tcs still not functioning. The only other thing I confirmed was the "auto-aiming" headlights are functioning correctly. Next I'm going to try replacing all the tail light bulbs, might have corrosion in the sockets, my passenger tail light stays fogged. I once had a problem with my cruise control on my last car, corrosion in the bulb sockets was the problem. Will update again another day.
-Shawn
Says "Koito" on the bottom left.
EDIT* finally had a rain free day. It is the OEM light as far as I can tell, it's defiantly not a L.E.D. one. It was filthy on the inside, the bulb was covered in dust. I cleaned everything and put it back together, dsc/tcs still not functioning. The only other thing I confirmed was the "auto-aiming" headlights are functioning correctly. Next I'm going to try replacing all the tail light bulbs, might have corrosion in the sockets, my passenger tail light stays fogged. I once had a problem with my cruise control on my last car, corrosion in the bulb sockets was the problem. Will update again another day.
-Shawn
Last edited by 1.3_LittersOfFurry; 12-27-2011 at 03:19 PM.
12-31-2011, 05:21 AM
#43
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I'll check and see if that is OEM. Right now I would say "no", but not reall sure.
Think I would concentrate on that passenger side tailight if I were you. That could very well be the cause.
Just for grins, I'd check that bulb in the third position, maybe change it out, and see. You can look up in the bulb thread just what it should be to verify it.
Think I would concentrate on that passenger side tailight if I were you. That could very well be the cause.
Just for grins, I'd check that bulb in the third position, maybe change it out, and see. You can look up in the bulb thread just what it should be to verify it.
12-31-2011, 08:36 AM
#44
Yeah, if you google that word it appears that company makes oem and aftermarket lights for cars.
I don't remember the bulb size I saw, but it was a pretty big bulb, about the same size as the other tail lights. I'll be picking up all the new bulbs today when I get off. Probably won't change them till tomorrow or Monday though...
If this doesn't work I'll just deal with it till after I get the suspension on. Already started ordering parts..
Tie rods are here, evo-r endlinks next, then to find Koni yellow sport shocks at a decent price. Was go threw bhr for them, but the price jumped from 500 to 6XX
Not sure what else o should replace while I'm at it... Suggestions?
-Shawn
I don't remember the bulb size I saw, but it was a pretty big bulb, about the same size as the other tail lights. I'll be picking up all the new bulbs today when I get off. Probably won't change them till tomorrow or Monday though...
If this doesn't work I'll just deal with it till after I get the suspension on. Already started ordering parts..
Tie rods are here, evo-r endlinks next, then to find Koni yellow sport shocks at a decent price. Was go threw bhr for them, but the price jumped from 500 to 6XX
Not sure what else o should replace while I'm at it... Suggestions?
-Shawn
01-01-2012, 03:09 PM
#46
Well, this was a interesting find, to bad it didn't fix the issue.
So either Koito IS the oem manufacture, OR someone replaced all the tail bulbs and housing to "Koito".
Passenger Side Bulbs.... (The foggy tail light housing)
(Brake|Reverse|Turning)
Last one is the 3rd brake light.
Next post for Driver Side
So either Koito IS the oem manufacture, OR someone replaced all the tail bulbs and housing to "Koito".
Passenger Side Bulbs.... (The foggy tail light housing)
(Brake|Reverse|Turning)
Last one is the 3rd brake light.
Next post for Driver Side
Last edited by 1.3_LittersOfFurry; 01-01-2012 at 03:26 PM.
01-01-2012, 03:20 PM
#47
So after changing the all the passenger tail bulbs and the 3rd brake light, I decided to change the driver ones too since I already spent $40 in freaking bulbs.
What do I find....?
Driver Side Tail lights
Pic 1. Brake | Reverse | Turn
Pic 2-4. Driver Brake Light | Driver Brake Light Socket
So yeah... I cleaned it the best I could and put "bulb grease" on all the bulbs.
-Shawn
What do I find....?
Driver Side Tail lights
Pic 1. Brake | Reverse | Turn
Pic 2-4. Driver Brake Light | Driver Brake Light Socket
So yeah... I cleaned it the best I could and put "bulb grease" on all the bulbs.
-Shawn
01-05-2012, 07:32 AM
#48
Well, I developed a new problem that might be related.
Lately I have been using side streets to get to work, so my max speed is only 35mph. In my free time I normally take back street which would let me rip it threw 1-2nd gear, So I haven't been driving it at higher speeds.
Around 4 this morning I went go pick a friend up who was broke down, I took the interstate... Let me say it was quiet the challenge to keep the car straight on the road @75mph. It was wondering left and right bad. It seems you can turn the wheel a little to the right or left with out the car changing direction, and the car will change directions on it's own. It does not act this way at lower speeds, but the streets I use to get to work are not exactly what you would call smooth to begin with.
Anyway, when we got to his house he was helping look at the front end. The is a clunk when you move the wheel back and forth slightly. But it seems the tires move with the wheel, even the slightest bit.
I read up on it, seems to be either inner/outer tie rods (I have new ones, but waiting for the rest of my suspension to install and align) or the steering knuckle (U-joint that connects the steering shaft to the PS rack). The noise also appears to be coming right around that U-joint. I read I can try to put WD40 on it and see if that would help. So I'm going to give that a shot in about an hour or so.
I'm also going to attempt to check the wheel sensors resistance while I'm at it. Even though I doubt I will find anything since I don't have a related CEL, and my abs/cruise/PS all defiantly work.
-Shawn
-EDIT-
So, checked the resistance on the hubs, Fronts both at 1.8k, Rears both at 1.3k. So that looks within spec.
I soaked the Lower steering U-joint with WD40, at first it seemed like the noise stopped, but only for a few secs.
I also gave the front tires some real hard pulling to see if I could find a loose tie rod, no luck, everything is nice and tight. I thought the driver side was loose at first but turns out I was just moving it so hard that I was turning the whole rack.
Also had a friend turn the wheel back and forth while I looked under the car. Nothing seems loose steering wise.
Lately I have been using side streets to get to work, so my max speed is only 35mph. In my free time I normally take back street which would let me rip it threw 1-2nd gear, So I haven't been driving it at higher speeds.
Around 4 this morning I went go pick a friend up who was broke down, I took the interstate... Let me say it was quiet the challenge to keep the car straight on the road @75mph. It was wondering left and right bad. It seems you can turn the wheel a little to the right or left with out the car changing direction, and the car will change directions on it's own. It does not act this way at lower speeds, but the streets I use to get to work are not exactly what you would call smooth to begin with.
Anyway, when we got to his house he was helping look at the front end. The is a clunk when you move the wheel back and forth slightly. But it seems the tires move with the wheel, even the slightest bit.
I read up on it, seems to be either inner/outer tie rods (I have new ones, but waiting for the rest of my suspension to install and align) or the steering knuckle (U-joint that connects the steering shaft to the PS rack). The noise also appears to be coming right around that U-joint. I read I can try to put WD40 on it and see if that would help. So I'm going to give that a shot in about an hour or so.
I'm also going to attempt to check the wheel sensors resistance while I'm at it. Even though I doubt I will find anything since I don't have a related CEL, and my abs/cruise/PS all defiantly work.
-Shawn
-EDIT-
So, checked the resistance on the hubs, Fronts both at 1.8k, Rears both at 1.3k. So that looks within spec.
I soaked the Lower steering U-joint with WD40, at first it seemed like the noise stopped, but only for a few secs.
I also gave the front tires some real hard pulling to see if I could find a loose tie rod, no luck, everything is nice and tight. I thought the driver side was loose at first but turns out I was just moving it so hard that I was turning the whole rack.
Also had a friend turn the wheel back and forth while I looked under the car. Nothing seems loose steering wise.
Last edited by 1.3_LittersOfFurry; 01-05-2012 at 04:44 PM.
01-05-2012, 07:37 PM
#49
Thanks for the information, just got this problem diagnosed at the dealer earlier, Guess i should have procrastinated longer and saved my 100 bucks :/.. The wheel bearing sensor isnt being read.. have not checked too see if its just dirty yet, but the wheel bearing is going out anyways.. BUT great information
01-05-2012, 10:13 PM
#50
i got this problem now......so far i replaced the battery, all 3 brake lights (sylvania) , and tried the steering center reset multiple times and it dont help....i noticed the self check of the ABS does not happen when the lights are on. The lights come on after driving for a while or letting it sit heat soaked and starting up again. Cold starts, the ABS/TCS lights go off till everything heats up again then they show up. all the resistances at the speed sensors are in-spec as per your list. and im on the factory dunlop tires with 40% tread left. any ideas?