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Im currently just getting the tools (and friends) necessary to replace my oil seal, as the pulley is spraying oil everywhere. Ive been reading the Service Bulletins as well as the DIY posted here from a few years back. Im just querying a part from the service bulletin: 'Pulley Lockbolt Installation Note' i just need a lil help understanding the importance of the aforementioned procedure, why is it necesary the gap between the pulley & the e-shaft be 'Standard: 10.34-11.14 mm {0.4071-0.4385 in}'? What would cause the e-shaft & pulley to come out of tolerance?
Last edited by R80MAV; 02-23-2015 at 04:28 AM.
Reason: spelling
There is a stack or things on the eshaft just behind the front cover. I think it is a bearing that fits pretty loose . If you let the shaft slide backward toward the engine it can get out of place. That will make the tolerance smaller then shown. When you tighten up the pulley bolt it will smash said part and cause all sorts if problems.
I rebuilt my engine and that is a pita with the engine pointing straight up. I would not attempt it in the car.
I strongly recommend to have it professionally done or pull the engine to for it.
The early model RX7 note applies to the Renesis. By engaging the clutch open the pressure plate is forcing the e-shaft forward to hold the thrust bearing stack in place. The late RX7 uses a pull clutch and does the opposite.
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we used a precision toothpick, cut to the correct length. My gauge would not fit. I added the extra things I did to the end of the DIY. I used a stick to hold the clutch pedal down. and drove a few wedge shims between pressure plate and Trans to hold it.
the measurement is to make sure nothing went wrong. if it does, it is a lot of work, likely a mechanic and a tow truck.
check your local dealer, some are reasonable, some crazy. there is a tool they can use that makes it easy. it locks the flywheel through the starter.
Thank you all for all your help. Due to it being the U.K. there is no sun available for the coming weeks, and as you all said its a pretty intricate job with a lot at stake.
I've decided to get it done by a nearby rotary specialist, as the Mazda dealer was useless when i called them and told me the engine needs to be pulled blablabla. However the guy at the rotary specialist (Rotarymotion) told me the reason the seal has leaked is probably because a bearing has failed. Which is the first I heave heard of this, so could any of you shed some light? I'm hoping its not just a coverup for if he were to fail at putting it back together, im very sceptical of new mechanics you see.
Are we talking about the front seal or the rear seal? That is important.
Mazda used to have to remove the engine to do the front seal because they needed to lock the flywheel, and the tool they had only worked with the engine out. There is a new tool. There is also a buddy on the ground with a pry bar against the flywheel teeth.
If your rotary guy says the front seal leaks because the bearing failed, I would be concerned. It leaks because it wears out and dries up. Rear seal is any entirely different matter. Engine does have to come out for that...
Also,when you have the ES snout/the piece that fits into the seal and on the ES, out,check for a wear mark where the seal contacts,a worn seal may cause a slight groove on the snout.Either replace it or use a speedy sleeve.
Are we talking about the front seal or the rear seal? That is important.
Mazda used to have to remove the engine to do the front seal because they needed to lock the flywheel, and the tool they had only worked with the engine out. There is a new tool. There is also a buddy on the ground with a pry bar against the flywheel teeth.
If your rotary guy says the front seal leaks because the bearing failed, I would be concerned. It leaks because it wears out and dries up. Rear seal is any entirely different matter. Engine does have to come out for that...
Front seal, behind the pulley.
Yes you're correct, the SST posted in the service bulletin.
I am concerned, hence why I posted here. I didn't wanna question him as they claim to be a Rotary Specialist. Even though I know my way around the engine, he would have a lot more hands-on exp. (of course that latter statement is assumed) He quoted the correct amount of time for the procedure too, 2hrs.
Originally Posted by CRO8TIA
Also,when you have the ES snout/the piece that fits into the seal and on the ES, out,check for a wear mark where the seal contacts,a worn seal may cause a slight groove on the snout.Either replace it or use a speedy sleeve.
SKF Speedi-Sleeve
I will keep an eye out for what, thanks for the heads up. Any idea of the dimensions of the sleeve? As no doubt I will have to source it from a European supplier.
The 2 we did had a bit of discoloration, but no real wear. The material was dry, brittle and quite worn. The new one fit snug, and has not leaked in about 10,000 miles.
I strongly suggest the stick on clutch pedal for holding things forward. I put the length I used in the post. A few cabinet shims, shoved between the trans housing and the back of the clutch pressure plate make nice insurance.
Only issue we had was on the first one. I had made sure my "team" knew that be very careful with the drift key. I showed the picture of it being held in place while pulling the "snout" out. We pulled it out, then one of them handed me the drift key and said they made sure it did not fall out.
02-22-2015, 10:01 AM
