Engine Woos... milky white oil
#1
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Engine Woos... milky white oil
Car: 05 RX8 GT 6MT 42XXXK
Yesterday morning my oil light came on. That evening I stopped at Advanced Auto and bought oil. Took off the cap and noticed a large amount of milky white layering (?) around the top of the oil cap/place you put it in. It was almost like the pearl white color / milky white color. Poured the oil in and checked the dipstick. The stick was also covered in the same stuff and was very low. I just put oil in it about 1.5-2 weeks ago at most. Basically, I got about 260 miles or so with 1 quart. My warrenty just ran out at 40K and uh ya... I have no loss of power, but uh help? Any more details just ask? Is my motor about to go? Coolant? Also it has alot of trouble starting after it's been running. For example getting gas... turn the car off and won't start after several attempts.
Thanx
Jonny Walker
Yesterday morning my oil light came on. That evening I stopped at Advanced Auto and bought oil. Took off the cap and noticed a large amount of milky white layering (?) around the top of the oil cap/place you put it in. It was almost like the pearl white color / milky white color. Poured the oil in and checked the dipstick. The stick was also covered in the same stuff and was very low. I just put oil in it about 1.5-2 weeks ago at most. Basically, I got about 260 miles or so with 1 quart. My warrenty just ran out at 40K and uh ya... I have no loss of power, but uh help? Any more details just ask? Is my motor about to go? Coolant? Also it has alot of trouble starting after it's been running. For example getting gas... turn the car off and won't start after several attempts.
Thanx
Jonny Walker
Last edited by The Korean; 01-06-2009 at 08:03 AM.
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#5
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Honestly, if you're finding that on your oil FILLER cap (that's what it sounded like you said...), then that's a lot more than the condensation issue the dipstick has.
And since you "burned" through a quart in 260 miles, either you had one helluva' a track day and redlined it for 260 straight miles, or else you're leaking it somewhere...
Do a quick check in the water coolant reservoir. If you've got a milkshake in there, your gonna' need to have some work done on your car...
Good news, though. If that's the case, your engine core warranty goes to 100,000 miles, and this gasket failing is an internal engine issue that WILL be covered.
And since you "burned" through a quart in 260 miles, either you had one helluva' a track day and redlined it for 260 straight miles, or else you're leaking it somewhere...
Do a quick check in the water coolant reservoir. If you've got a milkshake in there, your gonna' need to have some work done on your car...
Good news, though. If that's the case, your engine core warranty goes to 100,000 miles, and this gasket failing is an internal engine issue that WILL be covered.
#7
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Honestly, if you're finding that on your oil FILLER cap (that's what it sounded like you said...), then that's a lot more than the condensation issue the dipstick has.
And since you "burned" through a quart in 260 miles, either you had one helluva' a track day and redlined it for 260 straight miles, or else you're leaking it somewhere...
Do a quick check in the water coolant reservoir. If you've got a milkshake in there, your gonna' need to have some work done on your car...
Good news, though. If that's the case, your engine core warranty goes to 100,000 miles, and this gasket failing is an internal engine issue that WILL be covered.
And since you "burned" through a quart in 260 miles, either you had one helluva' a track day and redlined it for 260 straight miles, or else you're leaking it somewhere...
Do a quick check in the water coolant reservoir. If you've got a milkshake in there, your gonna' need to have some work done on your car...
Good news, though. If that's the case, your engine core warranty goes to 100,000 miles, and this gasket failing is an internal engine issue that WILL be covered.
I'll check the reservoir when I get home. Should this milkshake appearance that you're talking about be the same color as what I found in my oil?
Swaeet! Thanx for the info.
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I'll check the reservoir when I get home. Should this milkshake appearance that you're talking about be the same color as what I found in my oil?
But make sure it's not just a dirty reservoir... If it's a little dirty in there, then take a hose off, and get some fluid directly out of the hose to look at it; if it's not clear with a tint of color (usually green, but can be orange, etc.), then again, there's a problem.
Then again, it could be the OMP like what they're talking about above; hopefully that is the case, but that doesn't explain why you noticed milkshake through the filler lid.
#12
I would be worried about the water condensing and forming a jelly on the oil filler cap.
Indication of gasket or cracked block to cooling jackets letting in anti freeze into the oil.
Keep an eye on it.
Repair if it is truley a leak.
I drove my Buick like this for 4 years before ... kaboom!
Don't believe a wankel can live that long with a leak.
Indication of gasket or cracked block to cooling jackets letting in anti freeze into the oil.
Keep an eye on it.
Repair if it is truley a leak.
I drove my Buick like this for 4 years before ... kaboom!
Don't believe a wankel can live that long with a leak.
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Yes.
This is what I was referring to; I told you 1 way to check for it, but didn't really tell you what it was...
Basically, if water goes from the water passages into the engine (hence the condensation), then usually (not always) oil goes from the engine into the water passages, and makes your coolant look like a chocolate milk shake.
But yeah, it'll be covered by the 100k warranty, as it's a fault within the internal workings of the engine. The "fix" for it would normally be a new engine...
So honestly, keep your fingers crossed that this IS your problem, 'cause then you'll get a brand new (new to you...) engine! Woohoo!!
This is what I was referring to; I told you 1 way to check for it, but didn't really tell you what it was...
Basically, if water goes from the water passages into the engine (hence the condensation), then usually (not always) oil goes from the engine into the water passages, and makes your coolant look like a chocolate milk shake.
But yeah, it'll be covered by the 100k warranty, as it's a fault within the internal workings of the engine. The "fix" for it would normally be a new engine...
So honestly, keep your fingers crossed that this IS your problem, 'cause then you'll get a brand new (new to you...) engine! Woohoo!!
#18
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For the record you two ...........^, I saw this early this morning at work, but chose to over look it!
Everyone else was handling!
Everyone else was handling!
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-07-2009 at 08:01 PM.
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Took it to the dealer yesterday and so far:
$200 to tear about the motor or something technical to clean the rotors of carbon buildup. The service guy said it wasn't covered under warrenty and that it will get rid of the starting problem.
Then $44 to do the compression test and head gasket check or whatever you call it to see if I need new seals or a new motor. That is under warrenty, but why would they charge me if it's under warrenty?
And why do I have to get charged $200 in the first place bwaaaa...
$200 to tear about the motor or something technical to clean the rotors of carbon buildup. The service guy said it wasn't covered under warrenty and that it will get rid of the starting problem.
Then $44 to do the compression test and head gasket check or whatever you call it to see if I need new seals or a new motor. That is under warrenty, but why would they charge me if it's under warrenty?
And why do I have to get charged $200 in the first place bwaaaa...
#21
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Listen up.................if you are truly still under your basic warranty, then print the following out(I know it's not really your exact problem), take them to the dealer and explain to him that you do not believe you should be charged anything for what they want to do. Be nice about and if they still say "no", then call Mazda North America and discuss it with them.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...5-08-1883f.pdf
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...50-06-1664.pdf
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...5-08-1883f.pdf
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...50-06-1664.pdf
Last edited by Mazurfer; 01-08-2009 at 09:20 PM.
#22
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I am pretty sure that powertrain warranty on 04-05 is 5 years 60k miles. Bumper to bumper is 4 years 48k, and engine is 8 year 100k.
Unless you are out of the 4 years which would mean your 05 was bought before Jan 05, then you shouldn't pay a damn thing.
Unless you are out of the 4 years which would mean your 05 was bought before Jan 05, then you shouldn't pay a damn thing.
#24
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Update Again:
-According to the dealer and from what I understood back when I bought the car at the end of Feb last year, the warrenty as expired.
-The starting problem still exists (took it back a second time): The tech stated that I need to rev the car to 3-5K every single time I turn the car off. He did that and the car started every time for him except the one time he forgot to rev it. Question here: why would I have to not do that in the past (granted I know you're suppose to do that) until now? I also learned that when it's cold it starts perfectly fine with no hard cranking or delayed start. It starts up semi fine after running it, then shutting it off, waiting 10-15 minutes, then starting it back up again.
-The tech never did do a compression test on it... they lost the adapter piece
-In order to get a possible new motor I need to first by a new starter, have it replaced, and then do the compression test. They say I won't get accurate compression readings with the current starter.
-The warrenty or what ever you call it for the New Battery/New Starter doesn't exist anymore
On top of those problems:
-I turned on my lights the other day and the center console lights wouldn't light up and the gauge cluster didn't turn red even when I flipped that white/red switch on the left side.
-The parking brake light stays on even when the brake is down (only when it's cold out though)
-I need a new front lip
Comments?
-According to the dealer and from what I understood back when I bought the car at the end of Feb last year, the warrenty as expired.
-The starting problem still exists (took it back a second time): The tech stated that I need to rev the car to 3-5K every single time I turn the car off. He did that and the car started every time for him except the one time he forgot to rev it. Question here: why would I have to not do that in the past (granted I know you're suppose to do that) until now? I also learned that when it's cold it starts perfectly fine with no hard cranking or delayed start. It starts up semi fine after running it, then shutting it off, waiting 10-15 minutes, then starting it back up again.
-The tech never did do a compression test on it... they lost the adapter piece
-In order to get a possible new motor I need to first by a new starter, have it replaced, and then do the compression test. They say I won't get accurate compression readings with the current starter.
-The warrenty or what ever you call it for the New Battery/New Starter doesn't exist anymore
On top of those problems:
-I turned on my lights the other day and the center console lights wouldn't light up and the gauge cluster didn't turn red even when I flipped that white/red switch on the left side.
-The parking brake light stays on even when the brake is down (only when it's cold out though)
-I need a new front lip
Comments?
#25
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Car: 05 RX8 GT 6MT 42XXXK
Turns out the 2005 models had a 4 year, 50,000 mile warranty; bumper to bumper AND powertrain. The RX-8 still gets the8-yr/100,000 mile warranty extension for the engine core, but that's it.
So he's right. He's out of warranty if the original purchase date is prior to 1/2005, which it easily could have been.
At that rate, then any TSB that comes out won't be covered under warranty unless it specifically is covered under the engine core....
Turns out, YOU'RE IN LUCK!!
Bulletin 01-014/08 cleans out the carbon build-up, and supercedes any previous ones. Best part of it is, for you, is that it specifically states, "Warranty term coverage is 8 years (96 months) from the original warranty start date, with a 100,000 mile mileage limitation."
So that's gonna' be FREE. The dealer may just not realize that TSB falls under the engine core warranty, and not the powertrain for your vehicle.
And more good news is, the PCM update and carbon cleanout (MSP 016) that came out last year wasn't a TSB, it's a RECALL, in which case you're eligible to get this done even without the warranty update...aka, YOUR CAR IS COVERED! Technically speaking, they *should* have done this the first time you brought your car in, as this MSP is to be performed anytime an RX-8 comes into a shop either for an inspection or a repair, regardless of whether or not the owner asks for it...
And one more... The engine "cranks but no start" is covered; also in the 8 yr/100,000 mile warranty:
Bulletin 01-015/08
Just don't expect the dealer to be aware of these items. Honestly, unless they service a lot of RX8's, they aren't going to know off the top of their heads what needs to be done. Take in mind, service counter people are usally working on commission, and they don't make anything if it's warranty work... I don't know if all dealerships work that way, but my friends that have that position in different dealerships have both told me the same thing, so I tend to think it's standard.
Last edited by RX8-Frontier; 01-20-2009 at 05:01 PM.