Oscr Jenkins

I have a 2008 40th anniversary edition and i have almost the exact same problem, but my RX8 is all stock except the start which i just swaped trying to fix my starting issue, it makes a noise as if the starter is spinning but not cranking or anything else, similar to the 2 videos in the quoted post. Halp!

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Spinning but not cranking?

That's the battery terminals.




.

Eddie Adrian

My car does the same thing i need help guys ik it flooded i replaces alot of things but fuel kwwps comin out idk why and is it bad if it gets into the apex seals?the rotary engine

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

i replaces alot of things

You'll have to slow down and tell us what it does/doesn't do.....

BAMAJiPS

I guess this is where we come to comment because we cant create a new thread? https://i.imgur.com/Nc5qLyE.png

My 2005 w 108,000 miles does experience hard starts - excessively long turning over before she lights off - so I'm sure the compression is a bit compromised - the idle is low so you have to keep it feathered to stay running but theres plenty of power and super fun to drive. New SSV, starter, coils and i had to replace an vacuum switch on the backside of the intake manifold for one of the tines broken off.

I was hoping my issue is electrical or APV related (p2004 p2009 codes thrown and low idle- stall) and was hoping my engine still has life left and my issue is resolvable to keep her driving because when she stalls out you can NOT get her to start back up using the key, but you can either push or pull and dump the clutch in 2nd and she fires right up instantly.
Sincemy 8 was a barn rescue and had rat crap in the engine bay and the insulation chewed up on the fenders I'm hoping i may just have a vacuum or electrical issue... I'm wondering if when its warm that theres no fuel getting to the engine when the key is turned - or Ive been trying to run all that old gas out and hoping its just gone stale from sitting a year year and a half - (i know previous owner premixed from the oil in the trunk and I want to run all existing gas out so I can start fresh with the proper premix ratio) I lean against total loss of compression when hot because like I said on a tow start clutch dump its instant fire.
I was pricing ebay engines and noted on this example pictured above that the lower intake manifold has 2 vacuum hoses running to a T and up somewhere.
I wonder since my APV is throwing codes if its because my 2 ports are vacuum capped. I'd rerun the vacuum lines if I knew where they ran to. I cant tell from the vacuum diagram thats floating around here. I want to eliminate all culprits before going compression test route because I figure rather than throwing $200 out the window I canput that towards an ebay guaranteed motor from a reputable seller or (please dont kill me) was considering a piston engine swap of sorts (still working which directioninwant to go)

I hate to post here but cant post new :-/ i hate to be a pest. Any ideas appreciated

Eddie Adrian

[QUOTE=StealthTL;4810675] i replaces alot of things

You'll have to slow down and tell us what it does/doesn't do.....[/QUOTE
my engine is flooded bad i think cause gas keeps comin out the spark plug hole. how can i fix that and is that bad where the engine wont run anymorw

CaliLifeStyle

I had a similar issue with not starting. I thought it was my battery or my starter, but it was just flooded. Here's what I did:

1. With key in ignition, turn to ACC position and push gas pedal down.
2. Hold foot on pedal and begin to crank.
3. While starter is cranking, slowly lift foot off pedal. You should here it want to start, but it may take several attempts. Do this for 10 seconds.
4. If it does not start after 10 seconds, turn it off for 1 minute.
5. Repeat this procedure about 10 times unless you get it started sooner.

Seems too simple, but that's what worked for me. I've read about people pulling fuses and connectors, but, I didn't do any of that. Good luck!

TomX8

I know this post is almost a year old, but to me it sounds like the car has no compression whatsoever. You just hear the startmotor without any compression resistance.

Jonathan Jordan Kenney

Bought this car for $550, engine is remanufactured. I have done the deflood procedure both with the L plugs in and with them out. The car spins but doesn't start. Compression seems fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, on a separate note: is it common for oil to leak around the oil sensor? The sensor on the pan.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

"Compression seems fine" doesn't mean dick. And no it's not common for the oil to leak at the sensor. Search the billion other threads on the subject.

gwilliams6

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

Read this thread completely. Especially the part about rotary-specific compression test.

Without a proper test, you are just guessing at the true health of the engine.
At the price you paid, it is probably a failed engine.


Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors

Jonathan Jordan Kenney

I got it to start for a few seconds yesterday. I took 1 oz of oil and put it into both leading spark plug holes. As soon as I reassembled it and cranked it a couple of times it took right off. It shut down shortly thereafter. I am going to hook up the Genesys today or tomorrow and see if I can walk the diagnostic tree. I changed the coils, plugs and wires. I verified spark and did the deflood procedure (with the leading plugs out and the ecentric shaft sensor unplugged) prior to the oil injection.

Getting it to start was the highlight of my week. I have a brand new battery (tested and verified 700 cca). I saw a video on YouTube where a gentleman was talking about a series 1 starter being too weak to turn it over properly. Some forums say that 2007+ had a series 2 starter that is a 2kw starter? This guy said the same and did a before and after starting attempt and the "series 1" was doing, in the video, was doing almost identical to what mine is doing.

When I bought the RX I got proof of installation of a remaned motor nearly 20k ago. I know that doesn't mean a lot but I am trying to keep that in mind because the remaned ID badge on the motor matches the proof of purchase.

I just need need to get it running and needed to consult people who know more about them than I.

Supra1jz

check your maf sensor it does more than you think and causes problems when they dirty or brake. put an old plug on the wire or wires and see how good the spark is against some metal. pull a fuel rail line and see if it primes when you turn the key. Make sure security isn't cutting fuel and spark a steel key will still spin the starter. use your 24f battery that's the 700cca I think its what I got from wally world also and a running car with some cables if everything else checks out including security is passed u might just have to keep starting to get it to warm and seal in compression to start.

Had a turbo jz car that wouldn't start unless was pushed started with another car dropped in 1st with the clutch dumped and throttle stomped. compression was low all over the place but nothing that a little increase in boost and shortened idle cable couldn't fix for awhile. Biggest down fall was lots of oil burn and once she stalled or cut out you would have to get pushed by a car again. it was never a car that came to help though usually those rolling coal trucks with big brushguards got a good kick out smaking my **** into momentum

synopsis: Low compression will still sometimes start and run with some help

Jonathan Jordan Kenney

I don't know if a shop did the install because it was done prior to me getting it. I have a proof of purchase from advance auto, the person I bought it from put it in.

gwilliams6

Mazda issued an upgraded starter in 2005. You need to have this if your car was not upgraded to it. Don't get confused, Series 1 means 2004-2008 RX8s. Series 2 means 2009-12 RX8s. No starters were called series 1 and series 2.

to give you an idea of the things that may be in need of replacing: Work through the short list first. If you can get its started you need to get that rotary-specific compression test. The engine may just be low compression and you will have no choice but get it rebuilt (not cheap) if you plan to keep the car ,or sell the cars as-is non-running.

Keeping the Engine at an Idle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
• Intake Vaccum


Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

The Series I 6 speed manual starters suck, updated or not. Don't worry about that, you want a Series II 6 speed manual starter from a 2009 and up RX-8. Even if you have the latest Series I starter, you still want the Series II, trust me.

gwilliams6

the Series 2 starter was an improvement, but the later Series 1 starter would be sufficient for a reliable compression test and might be less expensive to source.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/OEM-12V-C...&wl13=&veh=sem

Here is a thread on Series 2 starters into Series 1 cars:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...es-1-a-225241/


For the Manuals the S2 OE Starter is the latest and spins the fastest at Ring Gear/Flywheel it has 14 tooth Gear.

The upgraded (2005 MY) S1 Starters went from an 11 tooth to a 13 tooth Drive Sprocket, for Manuals.

DarkMyth

My rx8 is having a similar issue. Hope someone can help me out.

i have a rebuilt engine from RR with about 25k on the engine. I checked compression a few months back and had high 90’s fully warmed up and adjusted for rpm and elevation.

I was driving 300 miles or so. I filled up once. All highway besides the last 20 miles. Was going about 70-75 most of the way. When I was in the city at the end of the 300 miles the engine rpm just drops. I lost all power and the car came to a stop. Wouldn’t turn back on. Had it towed to my house. The engine doesn’t sound like it wants to start at all. I was able to check for air and fuel. Air is coming in at 5-6g/s according to my cobb.

I put new NKG plugs in about 1k ago. New AEM air filter.Oil change and coolant as well. I have BHR ignition coils about 30k miles on those. No catylytic converter. No air pump. S2 14 tooth starter. Cranks at 300-350ish rpm.

I had this issue before and I replaced my fuel pump and it worked fine. I replaced it with a new Mazda assembly one so filter and pump.

When it cranks the radio turns off as well I just noticed along with my pod gauges above the radio wired into the cigarette lighter.

I had a tune on my car that increased the spark for the ignition coils. I was thinking maybe I burned out the coils.

Lilshane Allen

thats a very slow crank speed.

soundawake

What does your fuel gauge say? RX8s have been known to have faulty fuel senders and still say a quarter of a tank but the tank is actually empty... make sure you actually have fuel!! Maybe it has just run out.

The fact that the radio turns off when you crank it though... hmmm. It's possible the battery could be near dead from all the cranking and attempting to start that you have done. Measure it with a multimeter.

DarkMyth

My fuel gauge says a bit over half. I know it has some gas because I drove to about 220 and filled up. I top it off all the way. I usually get about 250 per tank or 200 to a quarter tank. So that should be ok. I also pulled off the red fuel line up by the UIM and it is pressurized and when I get it off the thing sprays fuel.

batter is showing 11.5 volts from the Cobb I use. I was using a second car to keep it charging when I crank. Yes I know it should be closer to 12 and 14 when it’s on. Last time I checked the battery voltage while it was on with a Cobb it was at 14.2 volts give or take 0.1 volts.

Car is currently in a different state and I’m unable to go and test these things instantly due to work but I will get back with any feed back if I don’t have the answer right now. But I’m still leaning towards the coils since I increased the spark and it never had issues like this before the tune for long distance driving. I will be going back to the car in about a month from now to see what’s going on

drphill

I did the whole washer fluid in the ports fix years ago...but this time found this very basic YouTube from Ray. Call it the Patience Method. After 10 cycles of 10 sec crank/60 sec pause it almost started. Patience. Ran through 8 more cycles and tada! This is so much simpler than other methods but it does take some time. Don't rush it.

wannawankel

Ray rocks!

DarkMyth

So I got my car up and running. It turned out for me that my aftermarket BHR ignition coils had the ground wire loose. So I just tightened it and boom it started up. It was not starting before because the spark would cut out and that would cause it to stop igniting the fuel. I have not tested the theory about why it shuts off yet but I’m guessing that could have been the issue. The ground wire got loose after such a long drive maybe? Causing it to loose power and not ignite anything and having the car come to a stop.

harrisgear

Hi Guys, Like almost all other posts here...I bought an RX8 (04) that won't start, and it's a real mystery. I have compression, new fuel pump (and I've disconnected the fuel line quick connect to make sure pressure is good), I placed a spark tester inline at at the plugs and have spark, I've pulled the plugs and have checked for flooding (also doing the de-flooding procedure removing the relay), and I have a battery charger connected to maintain a full battery. The plugs look really good, so I guess I'm wondering if, somewhere in between the fuel line connection in the engine compartment and the fuel injectors is a "fuel distributor" for lack of a better term? Any thoughts will be appreciated- the car sounds like it wants to start, but doesn't get there...

Thanks!