04_Mica Mazda

So, my remote will not unlock or lock the doors or trunk, and yes I checked the batteries.

The strangest part is that the door lock switch in the car works while the car is running, but don't work if the key isn't turned to the ON position.

Also, it gets better... keep in mind I've also checked the fuses all of which are OK, but none of the interior lights operate, the radio doesn't work, and when I shut the car off, the gaugues don't drop to the normal locations. listed below

0rpm
E (Fuel)
Lowest points on H2O Temp and Oil Pressure.

Every time I turn the car to the "ON" position, the gaugues go from max to min, then sit at the correct loations, like they are resetting. The fuel trip display below the odometer also resets every time.

Any insight will be great... I was guessing this is a possible control module or diode problem... but to be honest, I'm stumped.

Mazurfer

Ouch............I'm thinking ECU, but I'll have to think about it some more. It doesn't sound too damn good though. You haven't been doing any aftermarket wiring in that area have you?
You can check the connector at the ECU. Do you have a code reader that you could put on there and see if it is throwing any codes?

04_Mica Mazda

No A/M wiring or any A/M electrical components. I'll have to check with a friend who has a code reader, I did have a code for something else, not related to the electrical woes... I was thinking an ECU problem too...

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Did you check the ACC relay..and the room fuse?

Very strange though.

Could be the Dash module itself...although that shouldn't effect the lights and stereo??

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Did you check the BTN 30A fuse?
I doubt its the PCM, ACC Relay, or the ROOM fuse.
I'll explain why with a diagram because its easier to explain, but it sounds like you lost your constant 12V and that's why your door locks only work when the key is turned to the 'ON' position.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Here is a diagram to follow and help explain my theory.
Sorry for the crappy quality... at work using Microsoft Paint


The key thing for my decision was when you mention the door lock switch wouldn't work unless the key was turned to the 'ON' position, or else I would suspect the ROOM fuse too.

Looking at the attached diagram (red line) you'll see that the D LOCK fuse has constant voltage from the BTN fuse.
If you lost this voltage, you'll lose some functions of the Keyless Control Module (which a closer look at that circuit shows the door locks come from this module).

Now the blue line shows the path from the ignition when the key is turned to 'ON'.
Its now supplying voltage to the Keyless Control Module.
Which could explain why the door switch only works with the key in the 'ON' position.

If the BTN fuse ends up being OK, I would still focus on the constant voltage line (red line) because that seem the most plausible.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Mazurfer

Yeah, I was kinda thinking that later on. The gauge cluster does unplug right? Could it be that it's just messing with everything if those connectors are somehow no seated properly? I can see it effecting everything but lights and stereo as you said................but..............the ignition switch might be effected, so it's possible it could upset all kinds of stuff. I'm also wondering if the ignition switch isn't messing with everything as well. I need to go read what Jon just wrote and look at the diagram he posted. I'm too lazy to pull mine up.

Dave

Mazurfer

Good input Jon. Guess I should have re-read his symptoms.
Anyway......how about a weak or bad ground, relay not making solid connection, those might come into play as well????

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

You guys are going to love this one....
I decided to troubleshoot this on my own car.

I first pulled the BTN fuse and jumped in the car.
The doors would not unlock so I turned the key to 'ON' and tried the doors again.
I could hear a clicking sound somewhere around the glove box (probably the keyless control module) when I pressed the door switch, but the doors still didn't unlock.

Thinking back to the electrical diagram the ROOM fuse was also supplying constant voltage to the module, so I pulled that.
With the ROOM fuse pulled and the key out, the doors switch wouldn't work.
BUT with the key turned to the 'ON' position, I was able to use the door switch!
So check the 15A ROOM fuse!!!

You would think the D LOCK fuse is for the door lock, but not in this case!
I know I mentioned that I doubted the ROOM fuse... the D LOCK fuse really through me off there!

Mazurfer

Quite the detective work! Hope he reads this!


Now............where did that "PR" come from that's above my post? What the hell is that? Never seen that before!

04_Mica Mazda

wow, thanks for all the input and feedback! Really good stuff. It's pouring out here tonight, but once it's nice out, I'll check out what you guys suggested.

babohan

i had the same problem. check your 15a fus in your driver side..

04_Mica Mazda

I did check the 15a fuse, it was good. I actually replaced it with the spare and it worked, but the fuse I pulled out wasn't bad?? but now it's okay. Strange, but I'm not questioning it since it works now!

Thanks again for all the help and feedback!

mrinno

Any updates bro?

lperdido

For anyone having this most frustrating of issues, I had the same issue yesterday and replaced the room fuse (15a on the very bottom of the driver kick panel and all is restored.