DTC P0076 : Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low Bank 1
10-25-2016, 02:22 PM
#28
Do you recall seeing a similar solenoid under the AEM intake piping?
Most people remove the vacuum lines for the VFAD while installing the AEM intake, but maybe the previous owner kept everything there.
The solenoid has a green wire harness plug attached to it.
If you do happen to have this, then you have an extra solenoid to use in case one does get ruined.
Most people remove the vacuum lines for the VFAD while installing the AEM intake, but maybe the previous owner kept everything there.
The solenoid has a green wire harness plug attached to it.
If you do happen to have this, then you have an extra solenoid to use in case one does get ruined.
10-25-2016, 02:48 PM
#30
You can take a picture of the questionable item and post it here so I can see it.
Completely understand... though I also don't want to feed you misinformation either.
I've explained everything based on personal experience and since I've never tried your method (nor have I every heard of anyone trying it) I don't want to recommend it.
That would be completely your decision on if you want to try.
I do have several spare solenoids at home I could try, but I'll be at work for a few more hours.
Looking directly at the two contacts, the left is ground, the right is positive.
Completely understand... though I also don't want to feed you misinformation either.
I've explained everything based on personal experience and since I've never tried your method (nor have I every heard of anyone trying it) I don't want to recommend it.
That would be completely your decision on if you want to try.
I do have several spare solenoids at home I could try, but I'll be at work for a few more hours.
Looking directly at the two contacts, the left is ground, the right is positive.
10-25-2016, 03:07 PM
#31
i actually gonna go to a near by shop see if they could help me with the hook up and test
dude i completely understand
- Completely understand... though I also don't want to feed you misinformation either.
I've explained everything based on personal experience and since I've never tried your method (nor have I every heard of anyone trying it) I don't want to recommend it.
That would be completely your decision on if you want to try.
I do have several spare solenoids at home I could try, but I'll be at work for a few more hours.
i don't have one sore thought in your direction, you've already helped me so much
more than the search engine could
and about that last part ))
it really does depend which way you're holding the damn thing ))
dude i completely understand
- Completely understand... though I also don't want to feed you misinformation either.
I've explained everything based on personal experience and since I've never tried your method (nor have I every heard of anyone trying it) I don't want to recommend it.
That would be completely your decision on if you want to try.
I do have several spare solenoids at home I could try, but I'll be at work for a few more hours.
i don't have one sore thought in your direction, you've already helped me so much
more than the search engine could
and about that last part ))
it really does depend which way you're holding the damn thing ))
10-25-2016, 03:41 PM
#34
That's great! Solenoids are probably good then.
Clean those two contacts well and also on the receptacle on the wire harness.
Put everything back together and hopefully it runs well for you.
If you want to take it further and check the wires (and if you have a meter), you can check them while the wire harness is easily accessible.
Refer back to post #12 for that.
Let us know how it goes!
Clean those two contacts well and also on the receptacle on the wire harness.
Put everything back together and hopefully it runs well for you.
If you want to take it further and check the wires (and if you have a meter), you can check them while the wire harness is easily accessible.
Refer back to post #12 for that.
Let us know how it goes!
10-25-2016, 05:17 PM
#37
Reassembled, didn't start yet, went home to warm up.
Happy to make it before dark)
And hoping i hooked up all of them)))
I left the bracket out, and put only 1 of those upside-down screws back.
Happy to make it before dark)
And hoping i hooked up all of them)))
I left the bracket out, and put only 1 of those upside-down screws back.
10-25-2016, 07:43 PM
#38
Went back, started the car
On idle the jumped to about 3k rpm held it the til temp started approaching norm (maybe a minute or two) and shut down.
Tried starting it doesn't catch.
The only 2 codes I managed to grab were
P0102 and P0113.
Check engine and battery lights were on.
Where as before I didn't have check engine light on, in case I didn't mention.
Also for some reason I can't grab codes via torque pro but no problem with torque lite.
On idle the jumped to about 3k rpm held it the til temp started approaching norm (maybe a minute or two) and shut down.
Tried starting it doesn't catch.
The only 2 codes I managed to grab were
P0102 and P0113.
Check engine and battery lights were on.
Where as before I didn't have check engine light on, in case I didn't mention.
Also for some reason I can't grab codes via torque pro but no problem with torque lite.
Last edited by Brooklynite; 10-25-2016 at 07:48 PM.
10-26-2016, 08:54 AM
#41
I only mention the MAF sensor because that is what those two codes are associated with.
P0102 deals with the MAF and P0113 is for the IAT (which is apart of the MAF assembly).
Would be good to give that area (bumper to throttle body) a good once-over to ensure everything is correct, tight, and plugged in.
If you still have issues, check those screens in the couplers to ensure one didn't get damaged or dislodged.
And did you plug the vacuum lines back into the UIM?
You have one in the rear which is that line with the check valve.
There is another nipple right after the throttle body, underneath, that is either capped or still has the vacuum line attached for the VFAD assembly that's still installed.
When installing the AEM intake, you're supposed to remove all those VFAD lines and components (like the solenoid and vacuum chamber) and then cap the nipple on the UIM (as shown below) but it appears like whoever installed your intake, kept some of those installed.
Either way... make sure something is plugged into that nipple.
P0102 deals with the MAF and P0113 is for the IAT (which is apart of the MAF assembly).
If you still have issues, check those screens in the couplers to ensure one didn't get damaged or dislodged.
And did you plug the vacuum lines back into the UIM?
You have one in the rear which is that line with the check valve.
There is another nipple right after the throttle body, underneath, that is either capped or still has the vacuum line attached for the VFAD assembly that's still installed.
When installing the AEM intake, you're supposed to remove all those VFAD lines and components (like the solenoid and vacuum chamber) and then cap the nipple on the UIM (as shown below) but it appears like whoever installed your intake, kept some of those installed.
Either way... make sure something is plugged into that nipple.
Last edited by Jon316G; 10-26-2016 at 09:06 AM.
10-26-2016, 02:50 PM
#42
wow i actually freaking forgot to plug that first sensor into the induction system
and while i opened the hood anyway i went and took it apart again and put that rubber seal back between the TB and UIM
took the car to that nearby shop to check for codes when cold and then when hot
so it's there cooling down
gonna head over there now
but what of torque lite vs torque pro?
and while i opened the hood anyway i went and took it apart again and put that rubber seal back between the TB and UIM
took the car to that nearby shop to check for codes when cold and then when hot
so it's there cooling down
gonna head over there now
but what of torque lite vs torque pro?
10-26-2016, 05:16 PM
#44
so deductively i conclude that it is the solenoid that was in VDI port before and now in SSV
apparently the "blow and power switch" test was not sufficient to determine whether it was functional enough
testing the car at this stage (compared to when i began this):
check engine light is on;
significant power improvement over all but especially at higher RPM;
still underpowered (shaky jerky) performance mid to low range RPM (but over all better than was)
to be continued
PS. still concerned about oil pressure lamp going off, i was adding 5w20, it can't or shouldn't eat it at this rate
apparently the "blow and power switch" test was not sufficient to determine whether it was functional enough
testing the car at this stage (compared to when i began this):
check engine light is on;
significant power improvement over all but especially at higher RPM;
still underpowered (shaky jerky) performance mid to low range RPM (but over all better than was)
to be continued
PS. still concerned about oil pressure lamp going off, i was adding 5w20, it can't or shouldn't eat it at this rate
10-27-2016, 03:21 AM
#45
You would have to cycle it several times to see and even then it may be too intermittent to tell for sure.
I've tested one before that wouldn't switch under power at all.
To get by for now, you can swap the (now) SSV and AIR solenoid until you get a replacement.
Of course that involves taking the UIM off again, but since you did it once before, it shouldn't be as bad.
I've only used the lite version... never needed to look into pro.
If its oil pressure, the gauge only displays if you have pressure or not.
Its not displaying/adjusting to the actual pressure.
If its oil level, it could be an issue with the sensor itself but you can check the wiring/connector on the side of the pan to see if something tugged on it.
Last edited by Jon316G; 10-27-2016 at 06:43 AM.
10-29-2016, 12:59 AM
#46
the replacement should come in on monday
oil lamp that goes off, the gauge goes to normal every time but the lamp comes on from time to time
i also got the
C1145 - Right front wheel speed sensor input circuit failure
and
C2778 Lateral accelerometer and yaw rate sensor supply voltage out of range
it's like a puzzle box ))
oil lamp that goes off, the gauge goes to normal every time but the lamp comes on from time to time
i also got the
C1145 - Right front wheel speed sensor input circuit failure
and
C2778 Lateral accelerometer and yaw rate sensor supply voltage out of range
it's like a puzzle box ))
08-23-2020, 01:50 PM
#50
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Rx8 vdi solenoid p0076
I need to replace my vdi solenoid. My rotarty friend diagnosed it and said it would cost 170 for the gaskets and the solenoid and 500 for labour. I need some advice before I invest all this money. Is it worth it changing it now ? I've noticed a loss of power in my car is it due to this ? How long before this problem gets worse ?