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Could it be Coils, Plugs, Wires?

Old 01-18-2017, 12:33 PM
  #1  
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Could it be Coils, Plugs, Wires?

Hey all. Been searching since yesterday afternoon. Was out for a drive and suddenly the car does not want anything less than very light accelerator pressure and high RPM. Like it's running on one rotor. Not drivable.

Initial feedback was to check MAF so I cleaned it -no benefit. In further searching I see the recommendation to change coils, plugs and wires, but I did that at 32,000. The car ('08 40AE 6 speed) has just under 48K on it.

Not saying that I can't believe it's the aforementioned, but damn... good for 15000 miles and that's it? I'm having trouble believing it.

As fate would have it, I spared myself changing out the aforementioned as nobody in the area has 4 coils, so rather than running around various Boston neighbourhoods picking up one at a time (no plugs either -wtf?) I took it around the corner to have the code read. Awaiting feedback there.

[1] Car starts fine. Runs a little rough (barely noticeable) until it gets down to 1000K
[2] Anything more than very light accelerator pressure bogs it down
[3] Will run at high RPM (5K+) but if you push hard on the accelerator, see point [2]
[4] Ran like this once before in October. Flash flooding and I hit a puddle that was a little deep. I held a high idle in a parking lot for a few minutes and it went back to normal.

I'll leave it to anyone who feels like advising. Thanks!

Last edited by [dg]; 01-18-2017 at 12:35 PM.
Old 01-21-2017, 09:32 PM
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From a fellow 40AE owner, FYI plugs can easily be done with 16k miles. I have been changing my plugs every 15k miles or sooner when I feel their performance decreasing,and it makes an immediate difference. When the plugs are removed ,you can see it was due time to change them. (BTW I have BHR coils and wires, so haven't needed to change those yet) . Stock coils and wires should be good for up to 30k miles , but could go sooner. Yes it is always wise to change coils,plugs and wires at same time.

First check that all wires and plugs are seated properly. There are threads here on how to check your coils:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...adings-177879/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soW3L8H4Z6A


Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure

Last edited by gwilliams6; 01-24-2017 at 12:57 AM.
Old 02-23-2017, 10:01 PM
  #3  
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Help!!

Forum won't let me post new thread and I can't find the issue I'm having anywhere in forum. My problem is and sorry to OP for posting my problem on your thread... but my 2004 Rx8 automatic is having issues when in automatic mode (I never drive in auto) but I am wanting to sell my car and when it's in auto the gears shift to early.. I'll be going 50km and it will be in 4th gear and the rpms will be bouncing around is this fixable and what's the issue


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