Coolant Light on Dash
12-22-2007, 09:23 PM
#52
Yes, but be prepared for the dealer to do a million other things that don't need to be done before they figure it out.
Expect them to replace your radiator, your coolant temp sensor, your hoses, your thermostat and then everything else they break while they are replacing those items - including, but not limited to, your power steering rack, your battery tray, your intake and MAF sensor and, ultimately, your entire engine.
I am NOT joking.
Expect them to replace your radiator, your coolant temp sensor, your hoses, your thermostat and then everything else they break while they are replacing those items - including, but not limited to, your power steering rack, your battery tray, your intake and MAF sensor and, ultimately, your entire engine.
I am NOT joking.
03-20-2008, 03:12 PM
#54
04-18-2008, 03:30 PM
#55
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Just wanted to add a ME TOO! to the thread 
I've had the car for years, but the light only started coming on a few months ago. It happens nearly every time I first start the car, and stays on for about 15 seconds, then goes out.
And very rarely... I mean like maybe once every few weeks... it'll pop on in the middle of just commuting kinda driving, then go off after 30 seconds or so.
The levels looked OK, but maybe I'll add a little like people suggested...
I've had the car for years, but the light only started coming on a few months ago. It happens nearly every time I first start the car, and stays on for about 15 seconds, then goes out.
And very rarely... I mean like maybe once every few weeks... it'll pop on in the middle of just commuting kinda driving, then go off after 30 seconds or so.
The levels looked OK, but maybe I'll add a little like people suggested...
05-08-2008, 11:02 PM
#56
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Count me in.......... except prior to this happening.. It's been smelling like pancake syrup.. it's the only way I can describe it... My car is not over-heating and of course the "stealership" had it running for 30 minutes with the A/C full blast...and they still couldn't figure out what was wrong... Go figure!
06-15-2008, 05:51 AM
#61
Pictured is the sensor; could someone that understands electronics a little bit better than me confirm that this is how it works:
this sensor sits inside a spindle shaped tunnel that is molded inside the tank. Around that spindle is a doughnut shaped flotation device that travels up and down this spindle as the water level rises and falls.
I'm assuming that the flotation device has a magnet inside it that lets the sensor know where it is?
this sensor sits inside a spindle shaped tunnel that is molded inside the tank. Around that spindle is a doughnut shaped flotation device that travels up and down this spindle as the water level rises and falls.
I'm assuming that the flotation device has a magnet inside it that lets the sensor know where it is?
06-15-2008, 06:29 AM
#62
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Pictured is the sensor; could someone that understands electronics a little bit better than me confirm that this is how it works:
this sensor sits inside a spindle shaped tunnel that is molded inside the tank. Around that spindle is a doughnut shaped flotation device that travels up and down this spindle as the water level rises and falls.
I'm assuming that the flotation device has a magnet inside it that lets the sensor know where it is?
this sensor sits inside a spindle shaped tunnel that is molded inside the tank. Around that spindle is a doughnut shaped flotation device that travels up and down this spindle as the water level rises and falls.
I'm assuming that the flotation device has a magnet inside it that lets the sensor know where it is?
anyway, i'm trying to get a look at that and it looks like there are two contact plates meant to close the circuit in the middle? i cant see it really well
I'm by no means experienced with this kind of thing but it seems to me your assesment makes sense. doughnut drops, magnet inside causes the circuit to close illuminating the lamp?
06-15-2008, 06:50 AM
#63
No thats a shroud around another thin piece of zinc wire running parallel to the enclosed glass for the second cable coming out of the wiring harness.
If we're assuming that the magnet closes the circuit causing the light to illuminate, then its clear why all the symptoms occur in the order in the way they do.
(i.e. dependent on the rpm load and the temperature there will be a different level of fluid in the tank.)
It could also be assumed that the sensor fails after being magnetized for too long the two ends inside the glass tube naturally become closer together, causing the sensors sensitivity to go way up.
I'm pretty sure that over filling the tank will solve this problem until enough excess fluid drains out of the overflow at which point it returns close enough to trigger this very sensitive circuit.
EDIT: would like to find a fix as if they are just replacing the tank with the same tank, the problem is bound to show up again after 3 or 4 more years, (once most of us are out of warranty).
If we're assuming that the magnet closes the circuit causing the light to illuminate, then its clear why all the symptoms occur in the order in the way they do.
(i.e. dependent on the rpm load and the temperature there will be a different level of fluid in the tank.)
It could also be assumed that the sensor fails after being magnetized for too long the two ends inside the glass tube naturally become closer together, causing the sensors sensitivity to go way up.
I'm pretty sure that over filling the tank will solve this problem until enough excess fluid drains out of the overflow at which point it returns close enough to trigger this very sensitive circuit.
EDIT: would like to find a fix as if they are just replacing the tank with the same tank, the problem is bound to show up again after 3 or 4 more years, (once most of us are out of warranty).
06-15-2008, 07:13 AM
#64
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No thats a shroud around another thin piece of zinc wire running parallel to the enclosed glass for the second cable coming out of the wiring harness.
If we're assuming that the magnet closes the circuit causing the light to illuminate, then its clear why all the symptoms occur in the order in the way they do.
(i.e. dependent on the rpm load and the temperature there will be a different level of fluid in the tank.)
(i.e. dependent on the rpm load and the temperature there will be a different level of fluid in the tank.)
It could also be assumed that the sensor fails after being magnetized for too long the two ends inside the glass tube naturally become closer together, causing the sensors sensitivity to go way up.
I'm pretty sure that over filling the tank will solve this problem until enough excess fluid drains out of the overflow at which point it returns close enough to trigger this very sensitive circuit.
I'm pretty sure that over filling the tank will solve this problem until enough excess fluid drains out of the overflow at which point it returns close enough to trigger this very sensitive circuit.
perhaps someone else whose had this thing apart can shed more light on this
07-05-2008, 05:58 AM
#67
do a search plenty of threads on changing your coolant. If your refering to how i got the fill/overflow tank out without spilling fluid, I used a hand pump (the kind they sell for filling diffs and transmissions to take out the excess fluid in the tank to check out the sensor).
07-11-2008, 04:28 AM
#72
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disconnecting the sensor isnt a good solution for everyone, but it can be for some.
the OEM temp gauge is practically useless, and the coolant light has its own troubles. so for those that choose to disconnect it, it would be wise to look at your coolant everytime your under the hood for oil or whatever, and very wise to be able to monitor coolant temps via scangauge or other gauge
11-19-2008, 02:04 PM
#74
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my buddy's 8 started doing this Sunday as we were bedding the brake pads. I think he's out of his warranty