rotary9k

'04 MT - 55K miles

Have been using the stock clutch since day 1 and has worked fine..up until today.

I was driving and stepped on the clutch and heard a loud pop, or cracking sound. After that the clutch is much softer, and the engagement point is MUCH closer to the ground. I'd say I have about 1 inch of space at most before clutch is fully engaged. Also, clutch moves side to side a bit more freely, although not extremely loose. Clutch pedal bracket issue? Did a visual inspection and don't think anything looked amiss though..

Still drivable at this point, not much problems getting into gears, but definitely needs to get fixed ASAP. Need to get some insight from you guys before heading to the dealership so I don't get ripped off. Thanks!

CRO8TIA

Have a look up where your clutch pedal mounts on the clutch bracket,it is bare sheet metal with 2 spot welds,it sounds like the weld(s) have separated, its an easy fix if you have a welder (preferably a Tig).If it is this fault,search the forum for "how to repair" the clutch bracket.
I should have read your entire post before suggesting to look, however,try pushing the clutch pedal while looking at the bracket.Does your pedal move sideways if you hold it and push left - right .

rotary9k

Thanks for the input CRO8TIA.

After further inspection in the daytime, looks like the clutch pedal to bracket plate has indeed cracked, on the left side. I don't have a welder, nor am have I ever welded in my life, so it's probably best I have this fixed elsewhere. Thinking dealership may be best for this. What would be the approx. cost to have this fixed? Thanks.

CRO8TIA

If you remove the bracket yourself and take it to be welded it shouldnt run you more than 30-40 dollars,if you go to your dealer they will charge you an hourly rate if they are not prepared to replace it to keep you happy with Mazda .I would suggest you remove it ,its very simple to do,if you do a quick search, there is a step by step procedure with pics to help you.

rotary9k

Yes, that does seem like a good idea.

Are there any known reliability issues with a welded broken bracket vs. new bracket? I would imagine a welded bracket would be just as sturdy as a new one, but maybe I'm wrong.

CRO8TIA

If you acquire a new bracket , have it welded on the vertical section prior to installing,but as long as you align the spot welds or where it has broken to the original position,and then have it welded,again on the vertical length, it will last longer than a new bracket without welding.The reason it breaks is that there are only 2 spot welds on a std bracket.When I welded mine,I also put 2 gusset's as extra security.

kersh4w

iTrader: (3)

are you under warranty? if so, get a new bracket.

otherwise, get it welded. but before you reinstall it, buy one of these and install it along with the assembly. it creates a cage around the assembly and makes it very strong. i pound on my clutch when i drag race and i never have an issue anymore.

http://raceroots.com/index.php/produ...t-bracket.html

rotary9k

Thanks for all the input. Got this fixed.

So I went to Clippinger Mazda/West Covina,CA and they wanted to charge me a whopping $560 to fix it -- $280 for a new clutch pedal assembly, and $280 for labor. I told them 3 hrs of labor is ridiculous and they dropped it to $480. Still a high price to pay for such a small fix.

Ended up getting a fairly new one from the junkyard for $120, replaced it in about 20mins and its all good to go now. Will probably get my old one welded and hold onto for a back-up.

The stiffness of this new clutch pedal feels like brand new. Also, the engagement point is very high up, basically to the point where I'm no longer stepping on it. This is actually quite annoying, but I figured it should get better as the clutch gets worn in. Is this right? Or are there 2 versions (sport) of the clutch for an '04 RX-8?

rotary9k

Will definitely look into this. I DO NOT want the bracket cracking again...

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

There are two adjustments for the clutch pedal and changing one will involve changing the other.

1) Verify the clutch pedal stroke is about 5.12" (distance the pedal travels from its "up" position to its hard stop against the firewall).
I have mine at 5" which is close enough.

2) Verify that the clutch pedal play is 1/8" - 1/4".
This is the distance between when the pedal is up, to where you put your foot on the pedal and first feel resistance as the pedal's rod is hitting the master cylinder inside the hard pipe.
Basically, just make sure the rod has a little bit of play before it makes contact inside the hard pipe. 1/8" - 1/4" isn't much.

cas2themoe

I've actually been contacted by the state highway administration about this problem. Mazda had their way with me when it came to this and made me come out of pocket! Seems like they'll have a class action or large recall against this!

I want my money back! lol