swiftscott

Guys:

Searched to no avail on my problem, hoping someone can help diagnose my issue.

'04 Manual, 67,000 miles on third engine and also had a transmission rebuild with new 2nd gear at 59,925 miles (all covered under warranty) The clutch peddle welds are fine and the master cylinder does not appear to be leaking. Immediatly after the tranny work I replaced the fluid with Redline MTL.

For the last year or so the amount of clutch peddle travel available for clutch engagement has been getting smaller and smaller. Today, it is pretty much an on/off switch.

If I try to feather the clutch in that "sweet spot" at anything over, say, 2k RPM, the car will shutter, or chatter harshly. Almost feels like rear wheel hop.

Forget about any sort of aggressive launches unless I rev enough to just side-step the clutch and spin the rear wheels, which it will do just fine.

However, the clutch does not feel like it is slipping at all after it's fully engaged.

The problem seems to be worse after drives of more than 30 minutes, and the car also smells like something is burning or hot after longer drives. For a while I thought it was the engine leaking again and dripping on the exhaust

Also, the transmission as a whole does not seem to shift as smoothly as most 8 owners report.

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

New clutch time...try and test it on a hill and see if it slips.....

With that mileage It is likely the problem

teknics

ever replaced the clutch? if not 67k worth of "aggressive" launches etc will warp the flywheel and weaken the already poor stock clutch.

the lowering of the clutching engaging pedal travel also signal less clutch material.

to see if it's really slipping find a steep hill, get the car rolling uphill, put it in 4th or 5th and slam the gas. car stalls clutch still at least holding, rpms go up clutch is slipping.

edit: nice timing with the above post lol

kevin.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Ya...but yours is much more eloquent

Silver06

Clutch shudder is *generally* caused by hot-spots on the flywheel, or a warped pressure plate from overheating.

It can also be caused by improper assembly (alignment) of the disc to pressure plate. Or, it can be caused by poor friction material (too hard) in an aftermarket disc.

OR, it can be caused by oil leaking onto the flywheel/friction material.

The fix is to replace the pressure plate, friction material and resurface the flywheel (if possible).

Now, about your particular case????

Either, your clutch is not releasing or engaging completely - caused either by a faulty pressure plate or bad clutch hydraulics - and it is either dragging in disengagement or slipping slightly in engagement.

Or, your clutch has been contaminated by oil - either from a leaking transmission / engine seal, or during installation.

Whatever caused the problem, the clutch has to come out for a look.

Take it back to the dealer. Tell them the problems, and ask for their recommendation - they should participate in the cost of diagnosis. If it is an oil seal leak, there should be no charge. Proving liability for other causes will be more difficult.

Good luck.


(if you decide to just change the whole thing with something more performance oriented, then I'd recommend searching (advanced search): User Name: "Charles R.Hill"; Keyword: "Clutch" I'm told that you can PM Charles and discuss with him your requirements)