car wont start
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car wont start
here's what happened. started my car it was warm already but i still let it run for awile before driving. before i even get it into gear it shuts off. i didnt step on the gas or anything. got out and saw some smoke coming out the exhaust not a lot. tried to start it again and it wont start. had my cousin turn the key while i looked under the hood and the crank wasnt turning at all. just a clicking sound. its an 04 6MT with 95k.
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I changed the coils, plugs and wires at the same time last month. The battery, almost two years. like i said the car started then shut off while i let it idle. all the electricals are working like lights, windows, radio. tried to jump it but still nothing.
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yes, i checked battery before jumping it. the problem is not the alternator either. the crank does not move at all.
#8
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I know you have said you tried to jump it, but if it is not turning over, then there has to be something causing power loss. Try putting a volt meter on your battery under load to test and see if it is any good. A bad battery will also give you issues when trying to jump since it can't hold the charge well enough.
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here's an update: i tested the battery and it's good. we already tried pop starting, it didn't work. my friend's dad is a toyota master tech and he said it might be the starter.
#11
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You didn't say how you tested your battery. If you just put a voltmeter across its terminals and observed 12v that does not speak to its capacity. It has be load tested to be determined good.
But let's assume you did load test it. Unfortunately without the vehicle running you can't really determine if the Alternator is putting out the proper ~14v.
You don't need a good starter motor to pop [clutch] start it (being at speed and popping the clutch provides the motive force to turn over the engine), so I don't see where the bad starter assumption necessarily comes from.
A few more variables to resolve: 'plugs, coils, 'plug cables, fuel pump, starter interlock switch (on the clutch bracket), and of course flooded condition.
But let's assume you did load test it. Unfortunately without the vehicle running you can't really determine if the Alternator is putting out the proper ~14v.
You don't need a good starter motor to pop [clutch] start it (being at speed and popping the clutch provides the motive force to turn over the engine), so I don't see where the bad starter assumption necessarily comes from.
A few more variables to resolve: 'plugs, coils, 'plug cables, fuel pump, starter interlock switch (on the clutch bracket), and of course flooded condition.
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You didn't say how you tested your battery. If you just put a voltmeter across its terminals and observed 12v that does not speak to its capacity. It has be load tested to be determined good.
But let's assume you did load test it. Unfortunately without the vehicle running you can't really determine if the Alternator is putting out the proper ~14v.
You don't need a good starter motor to pop [clutch] start it (being at speed and popping the clutch provides the motive force to turn over the engine), so I don't see where the bad starter assumption necessarily comes from.
A few more variables to resolve: 'plugs, coils, 'plug cables, fuel pump, starter interlock switch (on the clutch bracket), and of course flooded condition.
But let's assume you did load test it. Unfortunately without the vehicle running you can't really determine if the Alternator is putting out the proper ~14v.
You don't need a good starter motor to pop [clutch] start it (being at speed and popping the clutch provides the motive force to turn over the engine), so I don't see where the bad starter assumption necessarily comes from.
A few more variables to resolve: 'plugs, coils, 'plug cables, fuel pump, starter interlock switch (on the clutch bracket), and of course flooded condition.
#13
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Then try to push start it (M/T presumed; pop the clutch in 2nd while rolling down a hill or being pushed). You don't need a starter to push start and if it does run it will tell you the starter's bad - although from your latest description it does appear the starter's gonzo.
You possibly have the old, lower powered, starter anyway. See the other similar post today for TSB insight (albeit not now offered free due to B-to-B warranty expiration).
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/not-starting-186057/
You possibly have the old, lower powered, starter anyway. See the other similar post today for TSB insight (albeit not now offered free due to B-to-B warranty expiration).
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/not-starting-186057/
Last edited by Huey52; 11-11-2009 at 05:06 PM.
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would flooding keep it from cranking? forgot to mention this but when it shut down the first time i tried to start it .it was cranking then it stopped and started clicking.
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No if flooded it would just turn over and over and not start. If it won't even turn over then you have a bad battery or starter or connection to them. This would be the first place to look. Look at the bottom of the page there are usually some good ideas there ......Then get back to us....
#18
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if it was cranking then stopped cranking and started to click sounds like a battery...you need to get it running and see what voltage is coming out of the alternator to make sure it's charging...95k miles and prob the original alternator it's a possibility
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04RX8man is right check the alternator after it's running make sure it's charging! That would be the next important thing if that was the cause. It could be a tired battery that never got any service or a tired old style starter that you soon will be glad you updated.
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tested the alternator, good. tested battery, good. checked connections, good. i'm a uti graduate so i know what to check and how to check it and have uti's equipment at my disposal. last test gave me the answer. tried to turn the crank by hand, fail. engine is definitly locked. getting a new one now.
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tested the alternator, good. tested battery, good. checked connections, good. i'm a uti graduate so i know what to check and how to check it and have uti's equipment at my disposal. last test gave me the answer. tried to turn the crank by hand, fail. engine is definitly locked. getting a new one now.
#22
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Engine locked??? The dissimilarity in the expansion rates of the aluminum-iron contact metals makes it impossible to seize the engine. So it must be mechanical. E-shaft?
Well, at least you'll get a new [reman] engine and essentially have a new car.
Well, at least you'll get a new [reman] engine and essentially have a new car.
tested the alternator, good. tested battery, good. checked connections, good. i'm a uti graduate so i know what to check and how to check it and have uti's equipment at my disposal. last test gave me the answer. tried to turn the crank by hand, fail. engine is definitly locked. getting a new one now.
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